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dynamic anchor - grigri soloing
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big_wall_theorist


Feb 19, 2002, 7:43 AM
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dynamic anchor - grigri soloing
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Seeing as a grigri is a static belay device...is it necessary to encorporate a dynamic anchor into your system to help reduce the impact force of a fall while soloing with the grigri?

I just started adding a dynamic element to my setup while soloing by attaching my haulbag to the anchor in a way that it can take some of the fall (much like an actually person would). However, on light climbs, my haulbag isn't necessaryily heavy enough to add a seemingly significant amount of dymanicness to the anchor. Does anyone here add a dynamic element to their setup while soloing with a grigri?

Maybe Dr. Piton would like to anwser this? You seem to be a big fan of the grigri for soloing, what do you do?

- Ethan


passthepitonspete


Feb 19, 2002, 8:51 AM
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dynamic anchor - grigri soloing [In reply to]
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First of all, welcome aboard! Please update your profile and tell us more about you.

You should be proud to be a Big Wall Theorist!

Wear your badge with pride.

Note: After you reach the summit of a big wall or two, you will no longer qualify. It is Dr. Piton's intention that this happen sooner rather than later.

I see that you "get it," in that you know that in the absence of a belay slave your makes a good belayer.

Problems may arise, however if your is also a and may in part explain why some big wall soloists choose to solo.

I ran into precisely the problem you describe when I soloed the Knifeblade Traverse on Iron Hawk. Since I hauled directly from the left side of the traverse to the station above, I had no to belay me. This problem was exacerbated because I had to build an anchor to take an upward pull (always harder to do!), and because the pro above the belay was poor, thus creating substantial factor two fall potential.

Scary stuff, Count Floyd!

I would recommend the following:


Make a habit of bringing your with you whenever you rope solo, and fill it with some rocks

This will also force you to practise your belay construction, load release knot, and hauling

Should you ever find yourself "sans", then you may wish to incorporate a Screamer and NOT a Scream Aid into your belay

If you use a Screamer, make sure you back it up by attaching the rope directly to your power point as well, leaving enough slack to allow the Screamer to fully deploy

Always tie a backup knot!


Cheers,

Dr. Piton




big_wall_theorist


Feb 19, 2002, 10:41 AM
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dynamic anchor - grigri soloing [In reply to]
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I kinda figured a screamer would be the only other way. Sounds like a screamer would be an easy alternative in thoughs situation where the haulbag is out. I was hoping not to have to drop any more money down on gear though. However, I guess if I want to ever get passed A3 and live to tell about it, I should probally invest in some screamers any way...ok now I'm lying, make that get passed A2. Thanks for the info Pete.

BTW - I will update my profile for all you stalkers out there.

[ This Message was edited by: big_wall_theorist on 2002-02-19 10:50 ]


glockaroo


Feb 20, 2002, 4:32 PM
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dynamic anchor - grigri soloing [In reply to]
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Another option to explore is the Petzl Zyper. This is an energy dissipation device specifically designed to handle the high fall factors involved in via ferrata climbing.

See http://petzl.devcross.com/petzl/publicFamille?id=ASSVF#ZYPER-Y

You could clip the zyper into your belay line such that the belay rope would come taught just as the zyper reaches full extension (only a couple of feet). This is of course the same way you would integrate a Screamer into the belay chain (a Screamer used as part of the belay, not used for clipping pro). Not all of the Zyper's components would be required; an examination of the device would bear this out quickly.

I have not tried to implement the Zyper, so this post perhaps counts as a BWT entry. But as I have summitted a couple of walls and done a fair amount of roped soloing, I cannot by definition be a BWT. Lost in a limbo of definitions... but since I "get it", I feel safe that I am truly not a BWT.


clorda


Feb 21, 2002, 4:20 AM
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dynamic anchor - grigri soloing [In reply to]
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I guess the discussion started a few weeks ago is back (see post on "better way to use screamers").

Following Pete's answer at the time, a few PMs were exchanged with a few diagrams, describing in picture what I had a hard time saying in words. I've lost these since, but, if you still have them Pete, feel free to use them or comment from them.

If I recall well, the last time, we were discussing "fishing reel" type belay devices -- one of the functions of fishing reels is to dissipate energy, enabling you to catch fish which pull with forces much greater than the breaking force of the line. (the one (BIG) drawback is that it pays out a lot of line to do so, so you're that much more likely to hit something.)

Maybe there's something waiting to be patented...

A screamer on the power point, along with the lead rope also tied in at the power point as redundancy, with slack to let the screamer extend really does seem like a good idea.

Let's just not go too far too fast with innovations and end up screwing up bad...

Salut tous (that's french)...


CL


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