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A few questions for sport climbers
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xcire


Oct 29, 2003, 12:42 PM
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A few questions for sport climbers
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Hey got my first lead this weekend and have some questions.

Is it normal to still have a rush 20 minutes after you get down
do you wear a helmet when you lead
Is it ok to buy new draws from ebay of should i float the 75 bucks for ones at rei?
What a good first rope?
For some reason i kept putting the rope through the draw backwards. The guy who was teaching me said to make sure it was set so if you fall it doesn't pull out, Is the same thin as thread it from the rock side out?
Is it better to push yourself till you fall or clip in the weight the rope and rest then continue on?
What is it called if I have done the route on top rope then lead it without falling or weighting the rope?
Is it safe for me to start leading routes now that i pretty much no how or should I have someone there to check my stuff for the fist few times?
Do all sport climber plan to climb trad one day?


findingit


Oct 29, 2003, 12:49 PM
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get prepared for the flaming on this one.....hung out to dry big time.

Pick up a book or do a search on lead climbing sport, trad etc.


jerryw


Oct 29, 2003, 12:54 PM
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1) well, it was your first lead.
2) yes, if I have access to one.
3) up to you. it's your life or your climbing partner's that will depend on those draws.
4) practice clipping, and when you get it right, practice more. practice all four orientations: left hand gate away, left hand gate in, right hand gate in, right hand gate away.
5) up to you. it's your equipment and your style. watch out for whippers.
6) redpoint.
7) if you fee comfortable, then go ahead. practice clipping first.
8) to each his/her own really...


xcire


Oct 29, 2003, 12:55 PM
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These are just some questions I have if ya cant help please don't respond. Im not interested in grammar hints or people telling me to do a search. Just would like someone to be helpful and let me know the answers. Thank you for your time


findingit


Oct 29, 2003, 12:59 PM
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xcire, you got lucky jerryw answered before the wolves circled. There are nice patient people on this site.

good luck buddy! if you get out to sedona let me know how it is, I'm dreaming of getting down there....


trad_mike


Oct 29, 2003, 1:01 PM
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Back clipping is a great way to get killed on a sport route. There's a good chance a fall will unclip the rope from the biner. The direction of the spine of the biner you clip also has to be on the same side that you're climbing, If you climb above it and on the gate side, a fall could open the biner and unclip the rope. You also need to be totally aware of where the rope is so you don't get flipped upside down in a fall. Knowing how to rappel, lower properly and set up a top rope is essential. You need to have everything down before you do your first lead. Consider yourself lucky and find someone who really knows how to teach a new leader before you go out again.


jerryw


Oct 29, 2003, 1:01 PM
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LOL @ xcire's signature... that one's great!


xcire


Oct 29, 2003, 1:03 PM
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[quote="jerryw"]1) well, it was your first lead.
2) yes, if I have access to one.
3) up to you. it's your life or your climbing partner's that will depend on those draws.
4) practice clipping, and when you get it right, practice more. practice all four orientations: left hand gate away, left hand gate in, right hand gate in, right hand gate away.
5) up to you. it's your equipment and your style. watch out for whippers.
6) redpoint.
7) if you fee comfortable, then go ahead. practice clipping first.
8) to each his/her own really...[/
quote]

I thank you for your time now you guys can let me have it


dynoguy


Oct 29, 2003, 1:03 PM
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Dude type slower or reread your posts. That stuff is barely legible


jt512


Oct 29, 2003, 1:03 PM
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I'm praying that this is not a troll.

In reply to:
Hey got my first lead this weekend and have some questions.

Is it normal to still have a rush 20 minutes after you get down

After your first lead, yes. Later, no.

In reply to:
do you wear a helmet when you lead

"Do"? No. Should? Probably.

In reply to:
Is it ok to buy new draws from ebay of should i float the 75 bucks for ones at rei?

d - None of the above

$75 should buy you at most 4 draws, and you'll need 3 times that many, so the answer is, you should shell out $250 for a full set of high-quality quickdraws. There are cheap draws and there are good draws, but there are no cheap, good draws. Do a little research and find out what the difference is. You get what you pay for.

In reply to:
What a good first rope?

A durable 10.5.

In reply to:
For some reason i kept putting the rope through the draw backwards.

Then you weren't ready to lead. If you want to stay alive in this sport, learn to clip properly before you lead again. There's no excuse for not knowing how to clip.

In reply to:
The guy who was teaching me said to make sure it was set so if you fall it doesn't pull out, Is the same thin as thread it from the rock side out?

That's the most important thing. There is also the question of which direction the gates should face. That is being discussed in other threads. Read them.

In reply to:
Is it better to push yourself till you fall or clip in the weight the rope and rest then continue on?

That is situational. Do you know how to fall properly? Is your belayer competent? Is the fall safe? Are you a troll?

In reply to:
What is it called if I have done the route on top rope then lead it without falling or weighting the rope?

A redpoint.

In reply to:
Is it safe for me to start leading routes now that i pretty much no how or should I have someone there to check my stuff for the fist few times?

What makes you think you "pretty much no [sic] how"?

In reply to:
Do all sport climber plan to climb trad one day?

No. Most already do.

-Jay


raingod


Oct 29, 2003, 1:03 PM
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Yes it is normal to have a rush twenty minutes or even twenty hours after a satisfying lead

I wear a helmet designed for some degree of fall protection when leading. Wearing a helmet is a personal choice and one that has seen many debates full of rhetoric and dogma.

Go ahead float the 75 bucks its not that much considering

Good first rope It all depends on what you are going to do with it as for brands it be personal pref again

I think you re talking about back clipping but you better ask the person who was teaching you they were there I wasn't

If you can fall safely push yourself until you do and you will probably improve faster

If you have toproped a route and then lead it cleanly congrats you have just redpointed a route

depends on how well you know your stuff and how confident you are but since you'll need a belayer you might as well try to get one who can check your stuff

I started mainly on trad so just a guess here but I'm pretty sure not all sport climbers aspire to trad or visa versa but since it's all fun give it a go


jerryw


Oct 29, 2003, 1:05 PM
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And on top of knowing how to set up an anchor, if there are quickclips or chains at the LO, never toprope through those things. Always use your own draws and biners.

Really tho', listen to trad_mike, find an experienced sport climber to teach you how to lead and clip properly. And then practice some more before you lead again.


maculated


Oct 29, 2003, 1:06 PM
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Congrats on your first lead:

>Is it normal to still have a rush 20 minutes after you get down

Yeah, it is your first lead.

>do you wear a helmet when you lead

Depends on the situation.

>Is it ok to buy new draws from ebay of should i float the 75 bucks for >ones at rei?

Check out gearextreme.com, otherwise, if the draws still have the tags on them on Ebay, go for it. But buyer beware.

>What a good first rope?

60 M cheap dynamic.

>For some reason i kept putting the rope through the draw backwards. >The guy who was teaching me said to make sure it was set so if you fall >it doesn't pull out, Is the same thin as thread it from the rock side out?

Uhh . . . I got away without worrying which direction the draw was facing for a year. It is safer to make sure the draw faces away from the fall line, rope going up through the bottom biner. You're new, you'll get it.

>Is it better to push yourself till you fall or clip in the weight the rope and >rest then continue on?

Depends on your comfort level. It's probably better to push yourself (once you are comfortable leading in general) if you want to reach higher grades, or you can rest with the rope if you dont want a clean ascent and just want to lead it.

>What is it called if I have done the route on top rope then lead it without >falling or weighting the rope?

Flash.

>Is it safe for me to start leading routes now that i pretty much no how or >should I have someone there to check my stuff for the fist few times?

Since you're doing sport . . . you are okay just starting out. Can't really bumble a sport lead too much. Leading is good practice for . . . leading. Make sure your top anchors are solid, though.

>Do all sport climber plan to climb trad one day?

Nah, some of them like sport climbing. Others aspire . . . blah blah blah


jerryw


Oct 29, 2003, 1:10 PM
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In reply to:
>What is it called if I have done the route on top rope then lead it without >falling or weighting the rope?

Flash.

don't wanna squabble over terminology here and I might be wrong, but I've always thought a flash is a first time send with no falls but with beta or seen someone else do it...? So it becomes a redpoint if you've already done it before...?


xcire


Oct 29, 2003, 1:13 PM
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Does stepping on a rope do more damage then lets say if your rope bag is in the trunk and stuff gets piled on top of it? wouldnt this do the same amount of damage?


findingit


Oct 29, 2003, 1:16 PM
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stepping on the rope when it's on the ground presses dirt particles into the fibers....some are abrasive and will cause wear. Hopefully when it's in your ropebag there isn't any loose dirt or abrasive materials kickin around. Shake it out well before wrapping it up.


jerryw


Oct 29, 2003, 1:16 PM
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Usually they mean if the rope is on the ground, so dirt can get into it, or you have a sharp edge on the ground and you step on the rope, that's bad.


fyreflii


Oct 29, 2003, 1:16 PM
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As far as finding the affordable draws, I've posted a few times about buying gear on eBay. Occassionally, a climbing store will close or someone is selling their extra draws for a reasonable price. Here are some general "duh" rules for buying stuff on eBay:

1. Make sure the seller is legit. Check out their feedback, other items, feedback left about others, and anything else you can find out. Sometimes an email is good, drop them a line and ask a few questions about the gear. See #2.

2. If it isn't included in the description, ask the seller how old/used the draws are, how many falls they've had, storage conditions, anything else that could affect the strength, where they purchased them, exact brand names, dimensions, etc. Be careful if the seller doesn't know the answers, or doesn't seem knowledgable about climbing gear.

3. Don't get too caught up in the bidding. Know the retail price, know how much the gear is worth in it's current condition, and set your highest big. Make sure you take into account shipping charges and any taxes.

4. Have patience. Something better always comes along.

And one final word of advice, trust your instinct. If something doesn't seem 100% trustworthy, chances are it is not. Good luck!


mtnbkrxtrordnair


Oct 29, 2003, 1:17 PM
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It wouldn't hurt to have a couple of quickdraws with locking biners for those "if the rope unclips you die" situations. :shock:


dynoguy


Oct 29, 2003, 1:19 PM
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In reply to:
Is it ok to buy new draws from ebay of should i float the 75 bucks for ones at rei?

d - None of the above

$75 should buy you at most 4 draws, and you'll need 3 times that many, so the answer is, you should shell out $250 for a full set of high-quality quickdraws. There are cheap draws and there are good draws, but there are no cheap, good draws. Do a little research and find out what the difference is. You get what you pay for.

In reply to:


-Jay

Thats not true for $75 you can get 6 metolius quickdraws with a wire gate bottom. What a deal!


jt512


Oct 29, 2003, 1:21 PM
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In reply to:
Does stepping on a rope do more damage then lets say if your rope bag is in the trunk and stuff gets piled on top of it? wouldnt this do the same amount of damage?
http://hillarydavis.com/images/cupidshut2.gif


climb_plastic


Oct 29, 2003, 2:02 PM
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Is it normal to still have a rush 20 minutes after you get down ?

If you get a couple bong hits right when you get down then the rush will creep up on you about 20 minutes later. Trad guys know that one.


climbsomething


Oct 29, 2003, 6:02 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Does stepping on a rope do more damage then lets say if your rope bag is in the trunk and stuff gets piled on top of it? wouldnt this do the same amount of damage?
http://hillarydavis.com/images/cupidshut2.gif

hahahahaha!!!!!11

to answer xcire's pregunta:

That was, like, random. But okay.

No, stepping on it grinds dirt etc. from your shoe and the ground in. That's bad, mmmkay. Smushing it against itself while it's in the trunk or for that matter, in your pack, just happens and is not a bad thing.

For the rest of your questions...



ConGRATulations! You are the 1 millionth n00b to ask what the best rope is!!!!11 We are sending you and 4 of your closest friends on an all-expenses-paid trip to Trashcan Rock for more endless n00b fun!!



harrisha


Nov 2, 2003, 3:13 PM
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Don't buy climbing gear off ebay; buy it from a store where you can account for its history: ie brand new. The damage from stepping on a rope is that dirt gets in it and tis weakens the fibers piling stuff on it in your trunk shouldn't hurt. I just wouldn't pile sharp objects on it.


captianstatic


Nov 2, 2003, 4:23 PM
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if you're planning on buying a rope I can tell you this. DO NOT buy Edelweis ropes. They totally suck. I bought a top of the line 10.5 rope specifically to use with a gri-gri. The damn thing got so fat after a couple uses it doesn't even fit! It's currenly weighing in at about 11.2, what a joke! It is very durable and falls are exceptionally comfortable however it is obese and will not fit in the gri. If you do buy one get it small as it will surely blimp up on you.

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