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realization
Oct 29, 2003, 9:25 PM
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In your opinion, what is the best, and worst climbing gym in the Mid-West? I know most people are going to be bias, and say there local gym is the best, but of the gyms you've personally been to, which do you prefer and why? Just curious, I've only been to a few local gyms, but honestly I prefer Ibex (Blue Springs MO) What do YOU think?!
THANKS
-mike
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andy_lemon
Oct 30, 2003, 1:53 AM
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I don't like small gyms where you run into people coming out of a locker room while your trying to buy climbing gear, and the best bouldering area is located underneath the roped climbing...? How about when the punk kid behind the counter puts in his favorite CD (usually techno) and then doesn't let a member or a paying customer pick out any music... I've been to those gyms. And those gyms suck.
I work at Vertical eXcape in Evansville. If anyone comes through this town (lost I would suppose) then stop into the gym. We do things differently then the gyms I've been to. I haven't been to the gyms in Missouri or Illinois but I hear they are nice.
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ladsquared
Oct 30, 2003, 5:25 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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since i live in the chicagoland area, the only gyms i have visited and climbed at are there. here is a short list of some of the more popular gyms in the midwest. everyone has their favorite (mine is VE-chicago):
planet rock (MI)
vertical endeavors (IL, MN)
upper limits (IL, MO)
climbtime indy (IN)
adventure rock (WI)
ive met a bunch of people that have said that planet rock is a great gym. the bouldering area is huge and there is so much variety.
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mowz
Oct 31, 2003, 2:12 AM
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I climb at VE as well (regular, actually) but, frankly, the children there are out of hand. I've seen one climber lead belay another. As the climber was climbing the arch, he came off. The lead belayer should have caught him, but the climber hit the ground due to the slack that wasn't taken up. It wasn't a far fall, but the climber would have had to start over (he was well into the climb) if he hadn't left. I've also seen kids there just mess around and wrestle each other. I like the gym and the lines they put up and the staff there, but there should be more discipline. I invited two frineds with once, and they were both turned off due to the untame crowd.
There is a gym in Crystal Lake, IL called Northwall. It's the cleanest gym I've seen and it's a quiet place where they treat you like you've been there forever. I'd go there more often but it's quite a drive for me.
For all those that know me, don't get me wrong, VE is great; it's some of the people there that strum my nerves.
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curt
Oct 31, 2003, 2:17 AM
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The best rock gym? Hahahahaha. That's like picking out the prettiest sheep.
Curt
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fullahsiffur
Oct 31, 2003, 2:50 AM
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OKCRocks has no climate control, no air filters, gravel, few climbs, and they don't change their climbs often. They also have routes 90 feet high, carved finger cracks, a complete climb with pockets, cracks, and slopers carved into the wall (this route is also ninty feet, and goes at 5.13c), chimneys, an entire hand crack climb carved into the wall, a 115 ft. route that goes across top of silo, and no colored tape! As close to outside as you can get inside. Not much bouldering and very small climbers community. You decide if this would be a nice gym to go to.
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realization
Oct 31, 2003, 3:08 AM
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I can't stand gyms that don't change there routes!!! that has to be 1 of the main problems with gym these days
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leader2
Oct 31, 2003, 2:20 PM
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I have also climbed at VE I hate the atmosphere. North wall is great for bouldering. My favorite is upper limits. hidden peaks is great for bouldering as well.
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ladsquared
Nov 4, 2003, 6:35 PM
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hello once again,
i also like the climbing at upper limits. the outdoor bouldering area is sooo much fun. but you have to wonder, what do the do with the area during the winter? the wave wall inside is pretty cool too. although, finding routes inside the gym (not inside the silos) can be quite tedious. bseides that, the climbing overall is fun. another thing to mention is that upper limits uses all kinds of holds from different manufacturers (voodoo, franklin, pusher, so ill, crater, etc.). that is one of my favorite characteristics about this gym.
that's all i have to say about that...
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realization
Nov 4, 2003, 11:55 PM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2003
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Yeah, I gotta say, the routes and the holds are 75% of the reason why I climb at the gym I do. Though there is a gym that's less than 1/4 the distance, it has NO good routes, and slim to no good holds. On the other hand, the gym I DO go to has the sickest routes, and some of the illest holds i've seen. Yeah that's right Ibex rock gym in MO is the gym i'm talking about! :lol: Thanks for making Ibex the gym it is!
-mike-
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organic
Nov 5, 2003, 1:29 AM
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VE in Warrenville Illinois is by far the best gym, I think they are sponsored by Nicros and they have that fake real rock, the best fake rock I have ever climb on or seen! Not only that but they have some crazy people who climb there and have routes all the way up to 5.13b . Now I do not know if it is really a 5.13 but I can usually climb 5.10 outdoors pretty solid and can barely do the first few moves on this route. Also Sportsplex a little gym in the South Burbs of Chicago is nice, they let us set up our own routes and everything, it is becoming a pretty respectable place despite its lack of climbing square footage. Plus I usually pay nothing to get in which just adds to the rating!! I could probably get some free guest passes to anyone if they ever wanted to go there. Just do not be disappointed because it probably is not worth more than a 30 minute drive.
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handcrack
Nov 5, 2003, 1:53 AM
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Registered: Aug 9, 2003
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My God, didn't anybody hear what curt said?
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realization
Nov 5, 2003, 2:27 AM
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It's not like we're talking about the best gym in the world, I'm talking about kansas, he's talking about Illinois, i'm just getting some opinions. But outside that, yeah it's a pretty large margin.
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uranus
Nov 5, 2003, 2:43 AM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2003
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I also think that VE is the best gym around here, they have some awsome real rock like walls and some good routes. They have tons of ropes and a cool bouldering section. they also have a section for little kids so that aren't all in the way as much when you are trying to climb. its also funny to see the little kids get stuck up on the wall because the autobelay tention is more then they weigh. Fun gym
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verbal
Nov 5, 2003, 5:02 AM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2001
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Worst gym in the mid-west is Cleveland Rocks. Hands down the worst.
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ladsquared
Nov 5, 2003, 5:28 PM
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any indoor climbing facility that is not maintained at all by its staff is probably a really bad wall to climb at.
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greenspace
Nov 5, 2003, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
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Word up!
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realization
Nov 6, 2003, 3:01 AM
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agreed.
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lexmark
Nov 6, 2003, 7:21 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2002
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Worst gym- Iowa City, Iowa. The Fieldhouse. This gym is a converted racquetball court. There is absolutely no steeposity (yeah, I know I made this word up). In order to make routes hard, the staff uses tiny crimps on the vertical walls. Can anyone say popped tendon.
Best in Iowa, Crimpnpeel's!
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