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1269topper
Oct 29, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Anybody recommend a killer multi-pitch line that must be done if you go to the gunks. I am from seneca and feel comfortable up to 5.8 and I know the Gunks is stiff like seneca, I looking to get my feet wet around 5.5 or 5.6 maybe hit some 5.7 even. What are some of the classic's
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jacobs
Oct 30, 2003, 12:03 AM
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High E 5.6 drunkards delight 5.7 and also madame G's 5.6
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trillium
Oct 30, 2003, 12:15 AM
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Must do climbs at the Gunks (IMHO):
Trapps
5.5: Horseman, Jackie
5.6: Baby, Hight Exposure, Maria, Shockley's Ceiling
5.7: Classic, Ken's Crack
5.8: Drunkard's Delight, Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope, Modern Times, Something Interesting, Son of Easy O
Near Trapps
5.3: Yum Yum Yab Yum (even though this is a 5.3 this is a great climb)
5.5: Layback
5.7: Yellow Ridge
5.6 Disneyland, Grease gun Groove
5.8: Broken Sling, Birdland, Farewell To Arms, Eastertime Too
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curt
Oct 30, 2003, 1:04 AM
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In reply to: Must do climbs at the Gunks (IMHO): Trapps 5.5: Horseman, Jackie 5.6: Baby, Hight Exposure, Maria, Shockley's Ceiling 5.7: Classic, Ken's Crack 5.8: Drunkard's Delight, Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope, Modern Times, Something Interesting, Son of Easy O Near Trapps 5.3: Yum Yum Yab Yum (even though this is a 5.3 this is a great climb) 5.5: Layback 5.7: Yellow Ridge 5.6 Disneyland, Grease gun Groove 5.8: Broken Sling, Birdland, Farewell To Arms, Eastertime Too
trillium,
Those are all great lines. I would add these caveats to a 5.7 leader, looking to break into 5.8, though.
1) Many people have decked on Drunkard's Delight because the crux is a boulder problem, right off the deck that is a little tricky to protect.
2) Birdland is a 5.9. If you do it though, don't even think about rapping from the top of the first pitch (like 99.9% of people do) because the second pitch is just as good as the first.
Curt
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kevin_ny
Oct 30, 2003, 1:12 AM
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Add to the list for the Near Trapps, Gelsa (5.4 If I remember correctly). Great third pitch...
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pico23
Oct 30, 2003, 1:22 AM
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In reply to: Must do climbs at the Gunks (IMHO): Trapps Near Trapps 5.3: Yum Yum Yab Yum (even though this is a 5.3 this is a great climb)
IT's not a 5.3. Anyone who says it is is a liar. The guide books don't even have the pitch descriptions right. That 4th pitch is 5.5 coming out of the shallow corner with poor protection at the moves and the traverse has more air than any other climb in the gunks that I've been on. There is no way i'd send a struggling 5.3 or even 5.4 leader on that climb. Overall it's the best climb in the Gunks with two 3 star pitches out of 4. The second pitch isn't challenging in itself but it's steep and puts to rest the idea that you can't fall on a 5.3 without getting hurt. In 4 pitches you climb, steep face, slab, 4th class, and an airy hand traverse. Be careful, the guide books are incorrect on the pitches but you can figure it out.
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gunkjunkie
Oct 30, 2003, 1:24 AM
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I would add Gelsa (5.4 - beautiful, classic Fritz Weissner line) to your list of climbs to do in the Nears.
If you get a chance try Beginner's Delight in the Trapps - beautiful line of 5.3 with a nice little roof - maybe as a end of the day climb. Frog's Head (5.6-) is also fun.
I would just add that Modern Times is not a 5.8 to do on your first trip to the Gunks if you are leading at your limit on 5.8. It's what is known as 5.8 scary :wink:
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curt
Oct 30, 2003, 1:36 AM
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pico23's post
In reply to: ........and the traverse has more air than any other climb in the gunks that I've been on.
Curt
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1269topper
Oct 30, 2003, 5:32 AM
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Thanks everyone
I love great climbing areas like this. I going to write some of these down and try to hit something depending on the crowds.
What routes are really sustained finger cracks or some real juggy roofs? I really dig these. I not into climbs that have a bunch of ledges that you can deck on :(. I not afraid to hang it out if there air under me not hard ledges.
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crackboy
Oct 30, 2003, 5:59 AM
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umm really sustained finger cracks don't really exist at the gunks. but youll find your share of super pumpy roofs.
i would recomend thin slabs direct. do the right hand variation to thin slabs (its the one with protection) and then hit the direct which is one of the best 5.7s at the gunks imo
pumpy, i would definitly do son of easy O , thin face to a nice roof sequence, do it in one pitch.
go do something interesting and then finsih off with the dangler, thats pretty pumpy.
basically any roof will be pumpy if you have no roof technique , but most of the stuff at the gunks is protected well.
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c_kryll
Oct 30, 2003, 6:32 PM
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Check out www.gunks.com and look under the routes section. You'll find some great climbs there under every grade.
Chris
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leaverbiner
Oct 30, 2003, 6:42 PM
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Also if you are looking to hit 8's and 8+'s you should definitely check out Modern Times! Absolutely kickass second pitch roof!
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dredsovrn
Oct 30, 2003, 6:51 PM
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I have to affirm other's suggestions of Modern Times and High Exposure. Airy Aria is also fun, and it is right around the corner. Get there early if you are going to hit it on the weekend.
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cracklover
Oct 30, 2003, 7:04 PM
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A couple of notes on climbs that have been mentioned:
Yum yum yab yum: 5.3 (Okay Pico, maybe 5.4) difficulty, with 5.10 exposure. The gear is fine. Maybe too good - be careful about rope-drag on that last pitch.
Sente: Old manky bolts.
Son of Easy O: Minimal gear on the first pitch 'til you're pretty high. If you're not comfortable with the Gunks rock yet, and you're just getting into 5.8s, maybe come back later (or sandbag your partner into taking the first pitch!) Second pitch is a fabulous jug-haul on massively overhanging rock with plenty of good gear.
Maria: some people have been known to skip the last pitch. Do NOT skip the last pitch - it's possibly the coolest roof I've ever done - you can't believe it could possibly be 5.6 until you sack up and pull the moves.
Something Interesting: This is now considered 5.7, but it's a testpiece for the grade, with a couple of intricate cruxes.
Ha anyone mention Shockley's Cieling? Very nice route - I dare you to do it in Dick Williams' style in this weather!
Lots of fabulous routes mentioned in this thread. The Gunks really shines in these easy/moderate grades.
GO
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elron
Oct 30, 2003, 8:26 PM
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I'll second (or third, or fourth, or whatever its up to now) Yum Yum Yab Yum. If nothing else, its a great name. Supposedly translates into "delicious love" in some Himalayan language. The last pitch is incredibly airy, but the pro is great. When I was there, there were a few fixed pitons (bongs?) and the crack ate up mid-size friends and trimcams in the 1-2 range. Careful of loose rock. You'll note one of the guidebooks says "... would be a great climb if it saw more traffic". There are sections of very loose rock and quite a bit of plant-life. And the rope drag on the last pitch is horrendous... use double ropes and use them correctly :) even then, there is quite a bit of drag.
I'm thinking of taking some 2-way radios with me next time i go... communicating from the top of the cliff to a partner at the belay below is often impossible. at a bare minimum, have your rope signals (tugs) sorted out ahead of time... and be aware that when there is a ton of drag, like on Yum Yum, rope signals aren't always that helpful :)
I don't know if anyone else mentioned them yet, but Layback (5.5) and Disneyland (5.6-) are both GREAT climbs. both are in the Near Traps. I think they are each 2 pitches. Lots of fun, not to be missed.
Have fun!
Kevin
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climbaholic
Oct 31, 2003, 1:10 AM
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A couple of other great classics that haven't been mentioned:
Madame G's - 5.6
Arch - 5.6
Limelight - 5.7
V-3 - 5.7
...and don't forget to bring the pink tricam.
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zachres
Oct 31, 2003, 1:25 AM
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MODERN TIMES
BOLDVILLE
BONNIE'S ROOF --- DIRECT FINISH!!!!! - by far the most beautiful line in the Gunks, with an amazing, airy, powerful finish
God, I miss the Gunks
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climbinganne
Oct 31, 2003, 1:34 AM
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:D
SEE YOU IN 15 HOURS BABY!!
check your pm
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afiveonbelay
Oct 31, 2003, 7:32 AM
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[quote="
go do something interesting and then finsih off with the dangler, thats pretty pumpy.
.
UMM pumpy, do it, DOOO IT
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brianstltz
Oct 31, 2003, 1:30 PM
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DO:
The Dangler
Modern Times
Bonnies Roof - Direct
All of which you get some killer exposure, all great climbs
Hopefully see you there this afternoon!
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climbinganne
Oct 31, 2003, 2:03 PM
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In reply to: DO: The Dangler Modern Times Bonnies Roof - Direct All of which you get some killer exposure, all great climbs Hopefully see you there this afternoon!
won't be there til after dark....
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rgold
Oct 31, 2003, 3:02 PM
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Some comments and recommendations. I've panned a few of the other's recommendations, not because any of these are bad climbs, but because they are either not multipitch routes, as you requested, or because they do not, in my opinion, rise to the "must do" level. Of course, this involves esthetic judgements, and perhaps I've gone too far in disputing matters of taste. I've also restricted myself to the Trapps and Near Trapps, which is appropriate for a first visit.
5.3
Beginner's Delight (Trapps) is one of the best routes of this grade in the country.
5.4
Sixish (Trapps).
For a first visit, I'd forget about:
Gelsa (Near Trapps). It's ok but, in my opinion, over-rated, with mediocre quality rock that is often a bit wet.
5.5
Horseman (Trapps) is a lovely climb but is just a single pitch.
Jackie (Trapps) is also nice but usually done as a single pitch with a rappel from the first belay. The second pitch of Jackie is not memorable; a better (and more natural) option is to follow the dihedral directly above the belay.
Layback (Near Trapps) is a classic. The layback itself is run out as laybacks tend to be, but the edge is bomber. Not a good choice if the cliff is damp.
5.6
One of the premier Gunks grades.
Baby (Trapps).
Frogshead to the top (Trapps).
Maria to the top (Trapps). The final overhang is cool but a bit of a sandbag. Visiting opinions run from 5.6--5.8.
High Exposure (Trapps). A Gunks classic and full of history. That said, I don't think it really deserves its tip-top billing. The initial pitches are completely unremarkable and the crux top pitch is an exposed but technically elementary jug haul up a vertical wall. Still, I guess you have to do it...
Madame G's (Trapps).
Shockley's Ceiling (Trapps).
Disneyland (Near Trapps).
For a first visit, I'd forget about:
Grease Gun Groove in the Near Trapps. It's a good filler for a Gunks regular but not even close to a must-do.
Sente (5.9) as a harder alternate to Thin Slabs. The bolts are old and questionable and the route is an anomalous 1960 sport climb, completely outside the spirit of Gunks climbing.
Arch (Trapps). Loose and dirty. I cannot fathom why this gets recommended at all. Certainly not a "must-do."
5.7
City Lights (Trapps). Some folks find a move at the start harder than 5.7.
Han's Puss (Trapps).
Limelight (Trapps).
Silhouette (Trapps). Beware of the run-out start, however.
Thin Slabs Direct (Trapps).
Te Dum (Near Trapps).
Yellow Ridge (Near Trapps).
For a first visit, I'd forget about
Classic (Trapps). No way this is a classic. Hard move off the ground (harder than 5.7, but in keeping with Gunks tradition undergraded by virtue of being low), followed by ordinary moderate face moves to rappel anchors.
Ken's Crack (Trapps). Nice enough, but you ain't coming all the way up to the Gunks to spend your time on a 50' climb, are you? On the other hand, it is a finger crack...
V3 (Trapps). Cool pitch, but then you rap off.
5.8
Another Gunks premier grade. If your are used to Seneca 5.8, I don't think Gunks 5.8 will seem out of line.
Airy Aria to the top. (Trapps).
Arrow (Trapps).
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (Trapps). Skip the boring first pitch and climb the crack which is the first pitch of Erect Direction.
Double Crack (Trapps). I think this is hard for 5.8, but it is reminiscent of some steep Seneca crack climbs.
Pas de Deux (Trapps).
Snooky's Return to the top (Trapps).
Something Interesting (Trapps).
Son of Easy O to the top (Trapps).
Birdland to the top (Near Trapps). One of the best climbs of its size and grade in the country. Hard for 5.8.
Broken Sling to the top. The start at the bottom is a boulder problem and more like 5.9. Beware of placing nuts that zipper in the corner above before the overhang.
Main Line (Near Trapps). Worth the walk to the end of the Nears.
Yellow Belly (Near Trapps). Hard for 5.8.
Bonnie's Roof (Trapps) This is graded 5.9, but I don't think it is any harder (although it is different) than Birdland, Double Crack, and Yellow Belly, and it is among the best routes of its size and grade in the country. Plus, it has all the ingredients you mentioned, a finger crack (in a stemming corner) and a juggy overhang. (The direct finish is a more solid level of 5.9 with harder juggy overhangs.)
For a first visit, I'd forget about:
Drunkard's Delight (Trapps) Ankle-breaker bouldery start that will feel harder than 5.8 if you do it wrong, leading to an amazingly easy juggy roof, leading to a lot of unremarkable climbing. Not even remotely in the class of the 5.8's above.
Farewell to Arms Excellent single pitch to rap anchors.
Eastertime Too A nice pitch to rap anchors.
Modern Times (Trapps). The Gunks sandbag supreme. A nice 5.8 if you are comfortable leading 5.9.
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dredsovrn
Oct 31, 2003, 5:13 PM
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I would just add that Modern Times is not a 5.8 to do on your first trip to the Gunks if you are leading at your limit on 5.8. It's what is known as 5.8 scary :wink:
Good point here. The finish on Modern Times has a high pucker factor for a 5.8. Scary is a good description. If 5.8 is your max, you may not want to do the second pitch. You can always treverse the belay ledge and run the second pitch of High Exposure if it looks like it will be too much for you.
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zachres
Oct 31, 2003, 5:37 PM
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First pitch of Modern Times is a joke... the real fun is in the second pitch.
Scary? Yes, but extremely well protected. There is a tree at the start of the crux(es), and a frightened leader can get an upside-down, hands-free rest off of it, from which to place a bomber, red camalot... I did this the first time I lead it.
Also, don't be fooled by the recently added piton, directly above the final notch/roof propblem... traverse right until you can, in the worst case, belly flop onto the ledge.
I would call it an absolute must-do, for a first-time visitor to the Gunks, who is a 5.8 leader... if not on lead, then following.
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brianstltz
Oct 31, 2003, 5:40 PM
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In reply to: I would call it an absolute must-do, for a first-time visitor to the Gunks, who is a 5.8 leader... if not on lead, then following.
Totally agree.
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