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Ask ElCapBuzz... How in the Hell did you solo Spaceshot in u
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wigglestick


Feb 20, 2002, 12:24 PM
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Ask ElCapBuzz... How in the Hell did you solo Spaceshot in u
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Hey ElCapbuzz,

I was browsing your profile and came across your Resume and read that you soloed Space Shot in under 4 hours. I have been on Space Shot and cannot quite comprehend how that is possible. Are you leading, rapping, and cleaning every pitch? Or are you doing something else like just leap frogging gear all the way up? Either way that is bad-ass. You da man. Please enlighten us with some of your speed climbing secrets. Thanks.

Matt (it takes me 4 hours to fit the haul bag into my car)


wigglestick


Feb 21, 2002, 6:47 AM
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Because he soloed it. The Nose was done with 2 people and they could simulclimb most of the way. I am curious if he had to clean his own pitches or if he just leap frogged his gear all the way up.
Plus I have done Space Shot and therefore I have a frame of reference about how hard that would be. I am pretty ignorant when it comes to the Nose.


passthepitonspete


Feb 22, 2002, 2:02 PM
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While you're at it, ask Ammon how he soloed the West Face of the Leaning Tower a Grade V wall, in under FIVE HOURS!


bigwalling


Feb 22, 2002, 6:33 PM
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Even though he didn't solo these. I think it's pretty darn amazing to do a thrid ascent of some A4 route(Get Whacked)in just under 13 hours. Thats fricken amazing. What will some of these guys speed climb next.


passthepitonspete


Feb 22, 2002, 7:02 PM
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It is little known fact that Dr. Piton owns a different type of Speed Climbing Record, which appears on Hollywood Hans' very bitchin' website, Speedclimb.com.

Click here to read about Dr. Piton's and Wee-Wee the Big Wall Crab's record speed ascent.

P.S. No doubt, Ammon would answer this question, but he is probably out climbing! Those of us who have a life, unlike me for instance, actually do this from time to time!

Sheesh.


maculated


Feb 25, 2002, 5:30 PM
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Yeah, where is Ammon, anyway?

I was supposed to meet him in J-Tree two weeks ago but it didn't work out, and now no hide nor hair from him.


addiroids


Feb 25, 2002, 9:36 PM
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I saw him 2 weeks ago in Josh. I didn't see him this weekend, nor did I remember to ask what he might be up to. So I guess that no news is still good news. I'm sure he is maybe working or off snowboarding if he isn't at the Gordon Ranch. Whatever it is, I'm sure he is climbing more than most of us and having a super fun time.

TRADitionally yours,

Addiroids


jmlangford


Feb 25, 2002, 10:03 PM
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For those of you that are interested, here is a photo of the route. It will give you a better idea of how amazing this solo by Ammon was.

http://www.uoflife.com/hac/space_shot.htm


wigglestick


Feb 26, 2002, 7:05 AM
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Yea ooze, I know what you are saying. I know it is theoretically possible to solo 2 pitches per hour but I am super slow and was hoping Ammon would enlighten me with some speedy tips. But it seems he is off climbing somewhere. Must be nice.


andy_lemon


Feb 26, 2002, 7:19 AM
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You took some beer up on the route with ya eh? No wonder the hoser wasn't climbin before noon.


crackwhore


Feb 26, 2002, 7:26 AM
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Hell...
it almost took me that long to climb Tricks my first time. (165' @.13a)

can you say hangdog???


elcapbuzz


Feb 26, 2002, 6:16 PM
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Hey Everyone!!!!

Yeah, I've been very busy lately with a few projects that I'm working on. Sorry for the slow response.

Ok, I don't have much time but I will try and answer some of the questions.

When climbing with a partner there is some tricks you can use to go faster, like short fixing and simul-climbing. When soloing, you can't do this for obvious reasons.

There is no real trick to speed soloing. The way you move fast is making fast dicesions. If it takes you a few pieces to figure out what gear to use, you slow down.

So, the best beta I can give is practice making quick dicesions. If the gear is A1, don't test it. If not, test it and get on the highest loop on your aider as fast as you can. I also like to think a few moves ahead. That way if I see that I can use the same piece a little higher, I leave it on my daisy and just back clean.

I started Space Shot just before noon. I free soloed the first two pitches with the rope tied to my back. I used the rope at the head wall and linked pitches together. Since I wasn't hauling I would pass up belays until I got to the end of my rope and used a natural belay when I found a good spot. I was able to climb the entire route in 4 pitches this way.

I passed up a party on the 5th pitch which slowed me down a bit. (They were on their 3rd day) I cleaned my own pitches by rappeling the lead line. I had an extra 8m, 60meter rope in my pack for the descent.

I topped out in exactly 3 hours and 57 minutes since I started the route. (357, isn't that a gun??) My friend Kevin Conti was taking photos from the summit of Moonlight, which I will post on this site, when I get a chance.

Ok, that's all I have time for. Thanks to everyone for your support. It means a lot to me.

Cheers, Ammon

PS. Sorry Maculated. I was a late getting to Joshua Tree. I'll be there this weekend and plan to stay for a week or two.


passthepitonspete


Feb 26, 2002, 10:07 PM
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Good work, buddy!

Sometime it would be swell to take a whole year off, climb all the time, and work my way up to that level of competence.

Meanwhile, I just have to start figuring it out again as soon as I step up to the rock.

Oh well, sooner or later I make it to the top.

Hey, wasn't that me you passed who was there on his third day???

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!


wigglestick


Feb 27, 2002, 8:46 AM
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Thanks Ammon for the response. I never would have thought to just keep going and then set natural belays and doing it in 4 pitches. When I did Space Shot I bivied at the base of the head wall after fixing the 4th pitch. I will never make that mistake again. Hauling up those initial pitches really takes the fight out of you. Fast and light will be my strategy next time.

Matt


elcapbuzz


Mar 14, 2002, 8:03 PM
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Bwaa haa haa ha. Good one, Joe. I just got back from JTree. I plan on going to Zion for a few weeks before I hit the Valley.

I know, I've been trying to figure out a way to get your bag to you. I'll let you know.

Cheers.


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