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gemiller
Oct 31, 2003, 2:58 PM
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i have newbish quesetion seeing as all i have done is boulder so far. but anyway the person who would probably belay me is a little over 100 lbs lighter than me, seeing as im 6'5" 250. How well would it work for a 115 lb person to belay me or is there some trick? i plan to go to climbnasium to learn how to properly belay but I know obviously i can belay with my weight to 115. but how about the other way around?
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mattdog
Oct 31, 2003, 3:06 PM
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gemiller, you're going to get about 500 flaming messages on this question. Some of them will be from experienced climbers. Quite a few will be from people who've been climbing for three months and who think they are climbers. And probably the worst ones you'll get will be from the adolescents here at RC.com who make it their days mission to belittle everyone else on the forum.
I will simply say this: this question has been address previously. Do a quick search on the forums and you'll find all the information you need.
Just ignore all the angry messages that come after this one.
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rodeomountain
Oct 31, 2003, 3:07 PM
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Anchor them down to something like you would in the gym. Use a wall (with gear), tree or secure rock.
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robmcc
Oct 31, 2003, 3:22 PM
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In reply to: Anchor them down to something like you would in the gym. Use a wall (with gear), tree or secure rock.
That's pretty much it. Keep in mind, too, that a lead fall will generate a LOT more force than a TR fall, so it's not just a question of weight differential. Anchoring is the solution any time you want to make sure you don't move (much). Somebody jump in and talk about dynamic belaying if you want. I don't. :)
BTW, when I started climbing, I outweighed my partner by 68 pounds. I pulled him off the ground every time I fell. Count on it happening.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 31, 2003, 3:23 PM
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Welcome aboard. I won't flame you. I only flame the flamers. A couple things to consider:
1. As previously mentioned, anchor them down.
2. Use a self locking belay device, such as a grigri. Just make sure your belayer and You know how to use it. This isn't necessary, it just makes it more comfortable to belay someone of your size.
3. Make sure you learn stuff before attempting it (classes are best) and HAVE FUN!
Josh
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mustclimb69
Oct 31, 2003, 3:43 PM
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Belaying with a severe weight difference is common, what is reccomended is to "tie the belayer down" or what is safer is to pratcise a remote belay. That is belaying off of a large boulder or several trees then attatch the belay device to the anchor and clip the belayers harness to the anchor as well.
this method is also safer than standard belay method because if an accident occurs you can tie off the climber and go for help.
There are also other methods involving Twisting the rope if climbing TR and therefore increasing the friction when the climber falls easier to lower, but harder to take in slack and increases the wear on the rope.
PM for further direction.
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fitzontherocks
Oct 31, 2003, 3:48 PM
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If you're just learning to belay, I would recommend you start with something other than a gri gri, an ATC, for example. This will help you learn the principles better and not teach you to depend on the mechanical action of the gri gri so much. (Plus they're about a quarter of the cost of a gri gri!) IMHO, a gri gri makes you lazy. ("I don't have to pay such close attention, 'cause it locks automatically if my partner falls.")
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attitude
Oct 31, 2003, 4:12 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
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Also, wear a leather glove on your brake hand, especially if you will be lowering the person. The local home improvement store is a good source for cheap leather gloves.
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jono
Nov 2, 2003, 4:45 AM
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In reply to: i have newbish quesetion seeing as all i have done is boulder so far. but anyway the person who would probably belay me is a little over 100 lbs lighter than me, seeing as im 6'5" 250. How well would it work for a 115 lb person to belay me or is there some trick? i plan to go to climbnasium to learn how to properly belay but I know obviously i can belay with my weight to 115. but how about the other way around? |
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gemiller
Nov 3, 2003, 12:58 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 110
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i have the sbg11 belay/rappel device. will this one be ok?
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