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easiest 5.5's
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charley


Oct 25, 2003, 5:53 PM
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easiest 5.5's
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any suggestions on the easiest5.5's at seneca. I have led ecstasy jr. and some of the other 5.4's and would like to try a 5.5. anyone know what might be easy and also what might be really hard. I have seconded 5.6's that were easy and then there is critter crack. I don't think I'm ready to lead candy corner even though I have second it and it protects well.


ropeburn


Oct 25, 2003, 6:55 PM
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Re: easiest 5.5's [In reply to]
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Charley
When I first read your post I thought to a few routes at NRP but I'm drawing a blank of good ones at seneca proper.
At NRP, try bottom line and link it up with moderato. Their both not hard or sustained, they take loads of pro and this line traverses from the south side of the lower crescendo wall to the base of the 34D wall.

If I think of any on Sencea proper I'll post again.


Oh yes, Thais (5.5), thanks robmcc. It's a nice climb just make sure to stick to the chimney on the second pitch, first time I did it we took the inside corner and mistakingly got on Thais Direct (5.7). Above the chimney you can take Thais Escape (5.2) if the weather gets harry or your burnt out. Nice direct line up the west face of the south summit.



:mrgreen:


robmcc


Oct 25, 2003, 6:59 PM
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I'm drawing a blank, too. You replied to my Seneca post, so you know it's been a decade since I've climbed there, but to the best of my memory everything I climbed was other than 5.5 with the exception of Candy Corner and Thais, which I didn't lead, so I couldn't tell you about the pro. My partner did miss a belay and ended up doing moderately dangerous stuff as a result.

Critter Crack is beautiful, though. :) Cept for that little nubbin halfway up I always ended up jammed painfully in the back of my hand. Way secure, though. :lol:

Rob


davidcollins


Oct 26, 2003, 5:19 AM
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Re: easiest 5.5's [In reply to]
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Conn's East is a 5.5. There is really only a short section of 5.5 near the start of the second pitch. The rest of the route is probably only about 5.3. It's much less sustained than Candy Corner but the crux move is much more exposed and routefinding is harder. But it's a wild and fun move.

I have not led the crux pitch of Thais but it seemed harder while seconding than either Candy Corner or Conn's East. I thought that Front C (5.6) was easier than those.

David


capnmark


Oct 31, 2003, 8:43 PM
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Quality 5.5's at Seneca are few.

There is a variation off of Le Gourmet called Easy Over. Comes off midway across the second pitch initial traverse. It is short wide slanted crack to start and the start is difficult to protect (I say this being one is prone to sewing up my routes!). The top of the route is a sweet hand crack. Overall I found this one hard due to an awkward postion in the wide part of the slanted crack. Needed to have pro racked on left side due to that position, which I did not!

A good route to work on cracks at that level would be Scuttle at the lower slabs. Single pitch 5.5. But the approach is long unless your heading up to the north face trail anyway. It is a great climb and the only one I can think of that fits your bill.

Gunsight notch east sucks.

Southwest Buttress Var. - This is the First pitch / pitches of Ecstacy. When I first led it I thought it was pretty cool. The last time I did it the 2nd pitch leading to the Ecstacy Jr. ledge was wet and a little loose. A little scary leaving the ledge for the upper pitch, a hidden #10 stopper above the lip makes if feel better. Overall not a terrible climb.

Candy corner is a good lead, I was first on this route in a leading class taken in 1999, instructed by Tony Barnes; I have led it twice since and it's been good each time.


galt


Oct 31, 2003, 9:24 PM
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Off topic:
Nice Charley, bustin out with the Bob Dylan (on one of my favorite songs no doubt). Not even my dad remembers that song, well done!


zap


Oct 31, 2003, 11:00 PM
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Re: easiest 5.5's [In reply to]
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if you are on the lower slabs, there ia a 5.5 climb called R2D2. 120'. nice climb, right around the corner from scuttle. also i believe that conns west direct is a 5.5, if not 5.5, at least a harder 5.4. candy corner is a great climb, but seems much harder.


mheyman


Nov 1, 2003, 4:30 AM
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Re: easiest 5.5's [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Conn's East is a 5.5. There is really only a short section of 5.5 near the start of the second pitch.

But its only one or 2 moves , is easier that you think is going to be, and has a bomber bolt to protect it.

In reply to:
The rest of the route is probably only about 5.3.

Yes - easiest 5 I've ever done.

If it is windy and cold the step around the corner at the top will get ya with exposure.

In reply to:
It's much less sustained than Candy Corner but the crux move is much more exposed and routefinding is harder. But it's a wild and fun move.

??? Only route finding I can remember was finding the start! After that just follow the easy path diagnaling right (pun intended ) to the top -then left across the summit.

Conns East exactly what you seem to be asking for.

In reply to:
I have not led the crux pitch of Thais but it seemed harder while seconding than either Candy Corner or Conn's East. I thought that Front C (5.6) was easier than those.

Front C is very short - just a few moves.

Scuttle! I didn't think that this was an easy 5 - but I know no crack technique. Remember using at least medium size gear near the top. Protects well. Also recommended for it's climbing though it is low and short.


Thais is often shaded and can be cold. A good summer route.


naitch


Nov 1, 2003, 5:18 AM
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Stay away form Thais. I've talked to many people and they have had route finding problems as was mentioned before. I've exeperinced that fisthand myself. I think it is one of the harder 5.5s and found it harder than both Candy Corner and Green Wall (5.7). Go figure. It's somewhat subjective though, as everybody has different opinions.

There's a nice 5.5 on the east face north peak called Bear's Delight that's good. Long hike to get there though and ony one pitch. ( I forgot there is a 5.3 or 5.8 to get to the base of this climb.)


charley


Nov 3, 2003, 5:24 AM
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sounds like conns east will be on my list to try next year. Thanks.


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