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apollodorus
Feb 21, 2002, 10:24 AM
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What are the smallest heads out there these days?
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passthepitonspete
Feb 22, 2002, 7:46 PM
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I do not know what the smallest heads made are - I can only show you the smallest heads I have actually used.
When I climbed Jolly Roger, I used something like 25 or 30 little heads in a ROW!
The smallest heads I have used measure 4 mm in diameter by 11 mm long.
Would you hang your ass off of one of those? Would you hang your ass off of two of those? How about twenty-five in a row?!
If you know what you are doing, then you might consider it. Being a bit psycho wouldn't hurt, either!
You can click here to see actual micro-heads I have used on Jolly Roger.
This is not big wall theory - this is big wall fact.
These heads were made by Bryan Law and are superbly crafted as well as being superbly priced. If you would like more information on how to get heads you can trust with your life clipped to your aid rack, then please click here.
I mean, c'mon eh?
Everyone loves a little head every now and then.
Cheers,
Dr. Piton
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apollodorus
Feb 22, 2002, 8:20 PM
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OK. Got it 4mm x 11mm. That's about the size of my smallest ones from way back.
So, I guess that leaves some room for heads that are EVEN SMALLER.
Or would you want such a thing?
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willstrickland
Feb 22, 2002, 8:27 PM
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Man, just look at the swages on the trigger wires of your small camalots...that's what I call #0. In the wire rope industry it's just called a 1/16th oval swage sleeve, 1/16th being the size of the cable. If you're placing a load of these (ala Pete on the J.R.) I try to paste a couple close together and eq them. Sometimes better to spend 5 hours on a hairy lead eq-ing heads and have half a prayer than 3 hours not eq-ing them and have not a prayer. You want 'em? I'll have my swager and stuff with me in the valley this season, just find me.
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passthepitonspete
Feb 22, 2002, 9:41 PM
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Yes! You "get it!"
On Jolly Roger, it was eleven hours, many equalizations, and a ton of prayer!
If you are equalizing microheads, then be sure to bring some strips of webbing so you can equalize heads with a sliding "X" which you tie by passing the strip through the two heads, and then tie with a water knot.
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apollodorus
Feb 23, 2002, 12:08 PM
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Maybe I'm REALLY old, but "equalizing heads" was what Mayor Daley did during the '68 Democratic Convention. His goons used truncheons as equalizers to "equalize the heads."
I've never seen this technique used on Big Walls before. Are you SURE that you're not a Big Wall Theorist?
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bigwalling
Feb 23, 2002, 5:50 PM
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Apollodorus I have never even climbed a true bigwall. And I've heard of and used this technique. When your my size(195 pounds) you need a little more help in the heads holding. So This is even mentioned in one of the books I have. I think you are too old or just out of it.
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passthepitonspete
Feb 23, 2002, 6:10 PM
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Equalizing crappy placements is fundamental to climbing hard aid! If you can't get something to hold your weight, then you might need to equalize two pieces.
I've equalized everything you can imagine. When I hang my solo tag rack off of its fifi mid-pitch while I use the continuous loop with tagging, and the placements are poor, I sometimes equalize three pieces to hang the tag rack. Sometimes even four.
To do this, you start at the top two pieces and create a sliding "X" and connect with a crab. Then you create another sliding "X" with that crab and the next piece below. Now you have equalized three. And from this crab, you can do another sliding "X" with the next piece below. You will of course need longer slings if the pieces are far apart.
I do this for equalizing multi-anchors, as well, in order to create a power point.
The harder the aid, the more sliding "X's" you will use!
If you happen to be a real lard-ass, and I have never for a moment suggested that anyone around here IS a real lard-ass, especially if that person is sitting on the placement directly overhead, then you may need to equalize three heads!
This is a technique Dr. Piton highly recommends, especially if there happens to be a lard ass directly overhead.
And yes - I am absolutely CERTAIN that I am NOT a Big Wall Theorist!
In fact, I can even offer proof!
Please click here for proof that Dr. Piton is NOT a Big Wall Theorist.
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bigwalling
Feb 23, 2002, 9:24 PM
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Muscle weighs more than fat skinny man.
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apollodorus
Feb 24, 2002, 12:09 AM
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GEEWHIPPERZEE, you guys take yourselves WAY too seriously. "Equalizing Heads" in Chicago was supposed to be a JOKE. As was the aspersions regarding theorizing vs. actually doing it up. I know that equalizing belay anchors and heads is a good idea.
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passthepitonspete
Feb 24, 2002, 5:43 PM
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No, we didn't. We're just bored. We were sh*tting you, too.
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!
Good one, bigwalling!
And I ain't as skinny just now as I was when I got down off my last wall, that's for dang sure!
Sheesh.
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