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da5id
Nov 4, 2003, 3:29 AM
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for the extra-safe anchor, use one locker made by palestinians, and one made by israelies
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coldclimb
Nov 4, 2003, 3:40 AM
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I've never heard of either failing.
Could it be that with theoretical probability, one method might be safer than the other, but in actual experimental probability, they are equally safe?
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jono
Nov 4, 2003, 5:33 AM
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i use two locking biner, two slings/webbing. anything can fail and i still live :D and about the locking biners facing the rock(mentioned above) yes they WILL come unlocked. my partner is new and did that, the one facing the wall was almost completely unlocked :shock: thats why i double everything!
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billcoe_
Nov 5, 2003, 4:47 AM
Post #30 of 39
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In reply to: I just toprope through the sling. Biners are heavy.
Tony: Not funny if you meant it to be a joke. If it's not joke, double up on the life insurance my friend as the clock is about to tick down for you soon.
Why am I the only one to bite on this post? Does everyone else just post and not read what others has written?
FYI: I use doubled STEEL locking biners when toproping most of the time. It's overkill, but my rope doesn't get the aluminum all over it and they test out to over 10,000 pounds each.
Brutus: thank from all of us about the heads up on the wiregates opening. Who knew?
Bill
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beyond_gravity
Nov 5, 2003, 4:10 PM
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I use opposing locking biner if I can, but I'm not going to go out of my way to do so. Single lockers are of course not as safe, but definatly safe enough.
If you use a single locking crab allways make sure the gate is facing away from the rock.
3 Ovals sounds like overkill and way to much extra weight for my liking.
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mtnrsq
Nov 5, 2003, 5:46 PM
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Anyone use auto-locking 'biners in place of regular lockers?
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jimdavis
Nov 6, 2003, 5:23 AM
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In reply to: Anyone use auto-locking 'biners in place of regular lockers
Those things were made by Lucifer himself.
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bloodyhands
Feb 10, 2006, 6:15 PM
Post #34 of 39
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In reply to: In reply to: I just toprope through the sling. Biners are heavy. Tony: Not funny if you meant it to be a joke... Bill
I laughed my ass off after reading that. Lighten up, bill.
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jklap
Feb 10, 2006, 7:51 PM
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In reply to: If using a single piece of webbing, use the same set up but use what I refer to as the "Magic X". To do this, twist the piece of webbing at the rear of the top rope and put your two biners through it and the front part of the webbing. And therefore if one of the bolts fails. the webbing still holds without it slipping through the biners.
Make sure you knot both sides right above the biners (overhand is easy)-- that way if either anchor fails the biner doesn't slip all the way to the end of the sling and then shockload the system.
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landgolier
Feb 10, 2006, 8:38 PM
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This thread was over 2 years old before the last 2 posters revived it. Please let it die.
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jklap
Feb 10, 2006, 9:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2005
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In reply to: This thread was over 2 years old before the last 2 posters revived it. Please let it die.
Whether it's two years old or not has no relevance on whether a newbie will search for it and read it-- and if they do spend the time to read it, then my comment was not in vain.
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tradrenn
Feb 11, 2006, 2:26 AM
Post #38 of 39
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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In reply to: In reply to: I just toprope through the sling. Biners are heavy. Why am I the only one to bite on this post? Does everyone else just post and not read what others has written?Bill
As far as I'm concern, I'm trying to ignore stupid comments.
You are not the only one.
Back to topick:
When I started, we used to toprope on one piece of webbing and one locking biner, that lasted for 5 years.
Times are different then before internet so use two locking biner and get over with it.
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tradrenn
Feb 12, 2006, 12:44 AM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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In reply to: It depends. Anyone but me noticed that when some wiregates are loaded in opposed configuration that the gates get pushed open slightly? Check it out sometime.
What wiregate biners are you using ?
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