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xcire
Nov 5, 2003, 8:16 PM
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I am going to jtree for turkey day and i did not realize how big that place was. Where is the best place for a 9 or 10 climber who is still new. And well protected 9 sport routes? where would you go if you were me
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tigerbythetail
Nov 5, 2003, 8:44 PM
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Check here for some ideas -
http://www.climbingjtree.com/rock/good_routes.html
There's good routes in just about every area, so maybe narrow your focus some. As for sport routes there's plenty 5.9 and under but they're spread out all over the Park and they're not really listed in one place...besides who goes to Josh to just sport climb?
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xcire
Nov 5, 2003, 8:47 PM
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Thanks and someone who has only been climbing for 4 months goes there to sport. I am not even interested in trad till i can lead sport better. I figure get the leading down then the placing or pro the combine and in a year or two bam im a trad climber
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thegreytradster
Nov 5, 2003, 8:50 PM
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"Ann well protected sport routes" ????
There really are no "sport routes" at Josh untill you get into the upper 10 or 11 range. Most climbs below that were put up on lead with a hand drill and are more "sporty" than sport. Even if they are predominantly bolted routes, they for the most part also require gear, at least for anchors.
Every season we run into a party from out of state with a rack of draws asking the same question. :roll:
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xcire
Nov 5, 2003, 8:55 PM
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Since I wont be leading i guess it doesn't matter if they are sport right? Whether its sport or trad if your tr it shouldn't matter? (that is a question)
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inflight
Nov 5, 2003, 8:57 PM
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I think this link is better.
http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/
This is old news but bolted routes there are not sport routes because they are spaced 15-25' apart and you can deck before you clip.
You may want to consider top roping. J Tree gives you plenty of opportunity to scramble to the top and set a rope with trad gear and bolts in some cases. I do recommend you bring extension rope or webbing up to 30'. THose who have done it know what I mean.
Peace!
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rogueclimber
Nov 5, 2003, 9:03 PM
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Stichter Quits 5.7 **
Cryptic 5.8 **
House of the Homeless 5.8+ *
Lead us not into Temptation 5.9 **
Loose Lady 5.9+ ***
8) 8) 8)
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bandycoot
Nov 5, 2003, 9:14 PM
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troll
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msiddens
Nov 5, 2003, 9:37 PM
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Amazing place but if it isn't clear by now, don't go there with sport climbing in mind. It's FAR from being a sport area. Best to go with an open mind and many opportunities.
Have fun!
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jtme
Nov 5, 2003, 9:50 PM
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Stop in at Nomad Ventures in JT (HWY 62at Park Blvd.) There are lists of top rope area's as well as a list of bolted routes with bolted anchors
Richard
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jt512
Nov 5, 2003, 10:15 PM
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In reply to: I am going to jtree for turkey day and i did not realize how big that place was.
:roll:
In reply to: Where is the best place for a 9 or 10 climber who is still new.
At Josh? On the 5.6s.
In reply to: And well protected 9 sport routes?
Stick to What is a pretty good bolted 9.
In reply to: where would you go if you were me
Every post you make sounds so much like a classic troll. You even have this classic n00b picture on your profile of you toproping some POS 5.6 slab. I haven't checked, but I bet you're even wearing Spires. If I wanted to pose as a clueless newbie in order to troll, I would do exactly what you have done, yet I continue to believe the naive persona that you present. If you turn out really to be a troll, I'll be the first to step and shake your hand.
-Jay
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climbsomething
Nov 5, 2003, 10:45 PM
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In reply to: where would you go if you were me
Whatever, if you must head out to SoCal, look up "enigma." She's a catch, a real hardkore trad 5.10 JTree maven.
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fyreflii
Nov 5, 2003, 11:26 PM
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Prepare to get schooled. I thought I was a pretty decent newbie sport climber, you know, leading a .9 at Jacks . . . I've been climbing at Josh every weekend for about a month now and I can still barely follow 8's.
For bolted climbs, try Indian Cove. There are some good easy bolted climbs, but you'll get sketched out easily if you're used to convenience bolts. The majority of bolts in Josh though are on 10's and up.
And dude, I thought I was climbing in Queen Creek with you over Thanksgiving. Thanks for standing me up! Guess I'm stuck with lousy old J-Tree that weekend . . . shucks
::fyreflii chuckles and starts dreaming of getting her ass kicked on cracks yet again::
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xcire
Nov 5, 2003, 11:27 PM
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im starting to think the word troll means newbie. Ya there spires just up graded to the yellow sportiva velcros(forgot the name) and its a 5.8 in my pic. A little to much work to go through to be a troll sorry just another newbie full of stupid questions
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xcire
Nov 5, 2003, 11:31 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I am going to jtree for turkey day and i did not realize how big that place was. :roll: In reply to: Where is the best place for a 9 or 10 climber who is still new. At Josh? On the 5.6s. In reply to: And well protected 9 sport routes? Stick to What is a pretty good bolted 9. In reply to: where would you go if you were me Every post you make sounds so much like a classic troll. You even have this classic n00b picture on your profile of you toproping some POS 5.6 slab. I haven't checked, but I bet you're even wearing Spires. If I wanted to pose as a clueless newbie in order to troll, I would do exactly what you have done, yet I continue to believe the naive persona that you present. If you turn out really to be a troll, I'll be the first to step and shake your hand. -Jay
man jay you really dont like newbies huh? Ya seem to bag on all my post. I thought you said your feeling for me wouldn't change after the other night. And a noob picture not everyone has been climbing since 1985 and has great pictures. Ya cant tell everything about someone from there profile (take yours climbing almost 20 years nothing special in the ascents section) man you must suck. see what i mean
Edit: I will give you some props so nice climbs after better inspection but still yes i am new and yes i suck but well all did at one time
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jt512
Nov 5, 2003, 11:46 PM
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In reply to: man jay you really dont like newbies huh?
Don't be ridiculous. Some of my best friends are newbies.
In reply to: Ya seem to bag on all my post.
Ya seem to deserve it.
In reply to: Ya cant tell everything about someone from there profile (take yours climbing almost 20 years nothing special in the ascents section) man you must suck.
I don't really think you're in a position to be a critic.
In reply to: Edit: I will give you some props so nice climbs after better inspection but still yes i am new and yes i suck but well all did at one time
I've never criticized your climbing abilities, only your posting style. You could stand to do a little reading on Netiquette, and take some time to inform yourself about the basics of climbing on your own, using standard sources that don't waste bandwidth and require the time and attention of others. Consider what this site would be like if the 100s or 1000s of newbies we have posted the same inane questions you have.
The above notwithstanding, I have sincerely been in doubt since you started posting here about whether or not you are genuine or a troll. Other users do think you are a troll. The post you started this thread with would be a classic were it not posted with such naive sincerity.
-Jay
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xcire
Nov 5, 2003, 11:54 PM
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I think these type of sites are for learning. why buy and read all these books if you can get all the info and a more direct answer from here. the space online will never fill up so other than you having to do a little more weeding through post i don't see a problem.
I will admit i could improve on my english but why do people think im a troll? isn't a troll someone who is looking to cause trouble? I could see you get mad if i was just posting questions to keep other busy but i learn from all the info and will continue to ask questions on anything i need info on.
And i took the "typical beginner noob pic" as not so much an insult but a shitty attitude
We will have to climb together someday. Ya can show me the right way to carry myself as a climber
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curt
Nov 6, 2003, 12:02 AM
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Geez Jay, quit beating up on our Arizona n00bs. Haha.
Curt
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crotch
Nov 6, 2003, 12:04 AM
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In reply to: I think these type of sites are for learning. why buy and read all these books if you can get all the info and a more direct answer from here.
Because you don't have enough knowledge to know which responses will get you killed. Published books have already been vetted for bad beta. Furthermore, you may develop gaps in your education if you learn only by asking. Do you know which questions to ask? How do you know you didn't miss anything? At least a book will give you a broad background and teach you things you didn't even think to ask about.
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inflight
Nov 6, 2003, 12:05 AM
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In reply to: I think these type of sites are for learning. why buy and read all these books if you can get all the info and a more direct answer from here. the space online will never fill up so other than you having to do a little more weeding through post i don't see a problem.
All due respect, reading from established and respected authors like JL who has made a professional effort in organizing and presenting information that has been validated by years of experience is a better place to learn than an Internet bonfire gathering where things are said with out a real audience in mind.
I also suggest hiring a guide. You can actually take a class from Jim Birdwell or spend a day climbing with Peter Croft.
Peace and climb safe.
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crotch
Nov 6, 2003, 12:09 AM
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Xcire - If you're hard up for cash, I'll send you my copy of "Freedom of the Hills" if you promise to read through it and try to answer questions on your own before asking here.
Red Rock would probably be a better place for you to go than Josh. It's got more sport routes in your range.
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xcire
Nov 6, 2003, 12:10 AM
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all right jay you win if you could choose one book for me to read what will it be? Ill have the book by this weekend
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climbsomething
Nov 6, 2003, 12:19 AM
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Like I've told you before, xcire, I may give you a little shit here and there (as may others) but the truth is, we want you to stay safe. Nobody wants to see anybody get hurt climbing, not even Jay (I know Jay very well, and while he may have a way with words that pisses some people off, he DOES know what he's talking about. He's strong, very smart and one of the most trustworthy partners I think I could ever have)
Josh is a magical place, yet there are endless ways to spectacularly fuck up. I don't know the crew you're travelling with, but for sake of discussion, I'll assume they're safe and solid. So go with them, tie into that toprope, and get on it. There will always be time for more ambitious ventures in Josh and elsewhere as long as you play your cards right.
As for your frequent questions that get frequent pissy responses, well, what can I say? It's a rough crowd, both on the Internet and with climbers, who can be a crusty bunch (to say the least). You'll learn ;)
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ebelay
Nov 6, 2003, 12:20 AM
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Freedom of the Hills - The Mountaineers
How to Rock Climb - John Long
Climbing Anchors - John Long
We are now, officially, off topic.
Eric
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moabbeth
Nov 6, 2003, 12:22 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: where would you go if you were me Whatever, if you must head out to SoCal, look up "enigma." She's a catch, a real hardkore trad 5.10 JTree maven.
Oooooh you are BAD Hilary :lol: :lol: :lol: !!
Seriously xcire, Josh isn't a sport location. You can probably get up a bunch of stuff on toprope, but if you go try Stitcher Quits thinking it's an average 5.7 sport route, you're gonna crap your pants.
Corral Canyon/Rattlesnake Canyon in Indian Cove has a whole wall of bolted climbs. Decent 5.7-5.10's there that are bolted enough to be sport climbs, you'll find them enjoyable.
If you're just looking to climb, like Dave said there's plenty of routes you can scramble around and set up a toprope on. Or better yet, just wander up to people toproping, be cool, make friendly and see if they'll let ya hop on their line.
And as far as asking noob questions go...asking questions is cool when you have enough knowlege to decipher the various answers you'll get. I could tell you the names of some bolted climbs in Josh but you'd get out there and find they're 15-20ft btwn bolts and not sport at all and you'd be screwed. :wink:
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