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caseyboy7
Nov 7, 2003, 3:30 PM
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I'm a new sport climber trying to mentally deal with the fear issue while leading because I think it's my mind holding me back. Anyhow, it seems that the paralyzing fear I have a lead is probably irrational fear. So, what I'm trying to do while its cold out and I can't climb is settle in my mind the basic risks, dangers, and consequences of leading for next spring. The problem I'm having is pinpointing exactly what is scaring me so bad. I am curious if anyone can either tell me what is going through their mind when the fear hits them or what the real major accident causers are on lead. Please do not simply respond dying or falling and hitting the ground. I understand falling may be a fear, but I want to look deeper. Am I afraid of falling because it means I fail, I'm afraid the gear will fail me, etc? In short, hearing where other leaders fears come from may help me to figure out where mine comes from so I can deal with it. I realize at first this seems like a stupid, easy to answer question, but if you sit and think about it for a few minutes I think it is a lot more complicated.
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valeberga
Nov 7, 2003, 3:57 PM
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Well you could fall upside-down. Or get a limb caught in the ropes if you have too much slack out (like when you have pulled up a bunch of rope to clip in). Or you could fall after the first bolt and leave a big divot in the ground.
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rockprodigy
Nov 7, 2003, 4:00 PM
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The worst possible scenario, is getting to the second or third bolt, pulling up slack to clip, then falling. It all depends on the particular route, but on most sport routes, if you "blow" the 2nd, or 3rd clip, you will hit the ground. If the 3rd bolt is 30-40' up, that could kill you. I had a friend blow a clip on a mixed (ice) route...luckily it was about the 9th bolt, but he still broke his helmet, split his head open, and went unconscious (he had his leg around the rope too, which flipped him upside down). We got to go to the hospital, but he turned out OK.
IMO, the only way to get over the fear of falling, is to practice it. Best to try it on an overhanging route, near the top (more rope out, less chance of hitting anything). Make sure your belayer knows what he/she is doing. They should give you a dynamic belay...if you don't know what that means, search the forum.
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mattdog
Nov 7, 2003, 4:03 PM
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Just wait until you start trad climbing! Then you're not 100% sure of your placements, and those bomber anchors aren't there!
Mostly, lead climbing is different because there's not that lovely tense top-rope there holding you up. You are aware that you will in fact fall. This is a mind game. You must get over it.
Everyone else will tell you, go to the gym, or somewhere else relatively safe... lead a route thats too hard for you... and fall off it. Experience the fall. You really need to do this to get over it.
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dingus
Nov 7, 2003, 4:04 PM
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I feel these are "valid" sport climbing lead fears:
1. Decking before you clip the first bolt.
2. Decking while trying to clip 2nd bolt (perhaps the single most dangerous 'repeated' risk in sport climbing?) Decking from the 2nd clip is bad news in many cases
3. Leaving the lead rope between your legs or behind your calf when you fall... flip! Most sport climbers still don't seem to wear helmets. You have to be aware of the orientation of the lead rope.
4. Getting dropped by an inattentive belayer.
5. Screwing up something when switching from leading to lowering/rapping.
DMT
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thinksinpictures
Nov 7, 2003, 4:05 PM
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The best way to get over the fear of falling is to trust your belayer implicitly. With your life. You can practice falling as much as you like (and I recommend you do), but even the boldest climbers can get shaky with a belayer that they don't know and trust.
I climb frequently with a very close friend, and I trust his belay more than any other. I don't fear falling at all on his rope. I feel the same way with another partner b/c of his experience - he's been climbing for 30+ years.
Alternately. I've turned down climbs near my limit because I didn't have a belayer I trusted enough to catch a long fall.
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poppasmearf
Nov 7, 2003, 4:08 PM
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You need to have confidence in your climbing. A wise man once told me, "Let your climbing be your belay." Dont start leading routes that are at your limit. I realize that may not be as fun for you, but you have to have your head in the game. Work your way up to more difficult leads after you are more mentally prepared for it.
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braaaaaaaadley
Nov 7, 2003, 4:11 PM
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Lets not forget missing the first bolt while going over a long roof :roll:
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anothertucsonclimber
Nov 7, 2003, 4:15 PM
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I wouldn't sit in your house and think about falling all winter long, in the Spring you'll never lead. Just get outside, and FALL - A LOT!!!
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deleted
Deleted
Nov 7, 2003, 4:27 PM
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the best way to hurt yourself [i:cc27d74ba5]sport[/i:cc27d74ba5] climbing?
caseyboy ... i think you've answered your own question. :wink:
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vicum
Nov 7, 2003, 4:40 PM
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this is the single most frightening thing for me. The transition from slab to overhang always makes me nervous sport leading.
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overlord
Nov 7, 2003, 5:15 PM
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deck and land on a pyramid shaped rock with your anal opening.
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gravitytheory
Nov 7, 2003, 5:24 PM
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When you get to the top and clip your daisy chain or sling into the anchors and get ready to set up a rap, make sure that you don't leave it attached to the gear loops.
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fredrogers
Nov 7, 2003, 5:26 PM
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You need to be able to differentiate between safe falls and dangerous falls. Some sport routes are quite runout and you need to keep a cool head if there is a ledge or deck potential. But if the route overhangs a lot and you will only hit air then falls are quite safe. Take some falls, take them in the gym this winter on the lead wall. Try to lead as much as possible and you'll desensitize yourself. But don't be so bold that you can't recognize a truly dangerous situation.
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dalguard
Nov 7, 2003, 5:29 PM
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Dingus' list is pretty complete. I'd just add "getting lowered off the end of the rope" which is really easy to protect against if you take the time and also mention that there are certain failure modes that are specific to the Gri-Gri so if your belayer is going to use one you should make sure that not only does your belayers fully understand how to use it but that you do as well so you can review and verify the setup and procedures.
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climbingnuts
Nov 7, 2003, 5:32 PM
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The easiest way to get hurt sport climbing is to "accidentlaly" drop things onto your belayer while dogging a route.
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ropeburn
Nov 7, 2003, 5:37 PM
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When I first started leading, I just thought back to when I was a kid and my friends and I would climb to ridiculous heights in trees. It never occurred to us to have something that would lessen the severity of a fall when they happened. Climbing with a rope and protection every 10' gives me a nice warm fuzzy feeling.
:mrgreen:
Edited for spelling
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organic
Nov 7, 2003, 6:08 PM
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Best way to get hurt is to take a huge fall without a rope or maybe back clip.
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jt512
Nov 7, 2003, 6:26 PM
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In reply to: I'm a new sport climber trying to mentally deal with the fear issue while leading because I think it's my mind holding me back. Anyhow, it seems that the paralyzing fear I have a lead is probably irrational fear. So, what I'm trying to do while its cold out and I can't climb is settle in my mind the basic risks, dangers, and consequences of leading for next spring. The problem I'm having is pinpointing exactly what is scaring me so bad. I am curious if anyone can either tell me what is going through their mind when the fear hits them or what the real major accident causers are on lead. Please do not simply respond dying or falling and hitting the ground. I understand falling may be a fear, but I want to look deeper. Am I afraid of falling because it means I fail, I'm afraid the gear will fail me, etc? In short, hearing where other leaders fears come from may help me to figure out where mine comes from so I can deal with it. I realize at first this seems like a stupid, easy to answer question, but if you sit and think about it for a few minutes I think it is a lot more complicated.
Most sport climbing injuries are caused by your belayer swinging you into the wall with too tight a belay. Make sure you and your partners know how and when to belay dynamically. Other risks in sport climbing include falling with the rope behind your leg, which causes you to fall upside down (cure: don't step in front of the rope) and decking before clipping the second bolt (cures: get a spot, climb higher before clipping, use a stick clip). Hitting ledges can also be a problem (cure: climb better-bolted routes). If the route is steep enough and you're high enough off the deck, fear of falling is probably irrational. Learning to climb effective in the midst of stressful climbing situations is the subject of a new book on mental training for climbing, which I strongly recommend, The Rock Warrior's Way by Arno Ilgner.
-Jay
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shut_up_and_climb
Nov 18, 2003, 2:26 AM
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basically, go for the hard routes, but do think about what can happen and you'll pull them. the chance of getting hurt bad i very low. just go for it man. just climb it!
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wallwombat
Nov 18, 2003, 3:00 AM
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You could break a finger nail or spill a boiling hot latte on yourself while belaying. You could get your pinky wedged in your Gri Gri.
Pretty dangerous stuff really! :wink:
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