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cgranite
Nov 11, 2003, 2:25 AM
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I'm looking for a list of Yosemites most classic single pitch routes that are 5.9 or less. Preferably bolted anchors or a nice ledge up top. Hand cracks would be great. Thanks
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maculated
Nov 11, 2003, 2:29 AM
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www.supertopo.com
Get the book or the ebook.
And uh . . . I assume you can't build an anchor and that's why you want bolts or a ledge? Please tell me you're not body-belaying your second.
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iltripp
Nov 11, 2003, 2:34 AM
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Bishops's Terrace - 5.8 is the best crack I've ever climbed... It can be run as a single pitch, but it's a long one. Make sure you've got the pro for it. Definitely a Yosemite classic.
Churchbowl Lieback - 5.8... Don't know if I'd call it a classic, but it's fun and I'm struggling to think of one-pitch routes here. I'd recommend it.
Lena's Lieback - 5.9 over in Swan slab. Again, maybe not a classic, but a fun route and one-pitch. There's a 5.7 on the same anchors too.
Trying to think of some decent one pitch climbs, but I'm drawing a blank. Just do multi-pitch instead. Why do you want one-pitch??
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cgranite
Nov 11, 2003, 2:44 AM
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yes, I can build an anchor system. Just don't want to make one in a nasty spot if I don't have to, but I guess there will be a nice belay spot on most so it was stupid to say that.
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maculated
Nov 11, 2003, 2:45 AM
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Right on. Just didn't want to be sending a gumby on stuff they shouldn't be on. :) But dicey trad anchors are where it's at!!
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billcoe_
Nov 11, 2003, 3:01 AM
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Good choices on Bishops. Couple more....
Reeds is 5.9, little out of the way if you're cranking lots of stuff in a short time. Nice route.
first 5 pitches of Central Pillar of Frenzy is real good.
of course, you have "jamcrack" its a jamcrack, very good, 5.9.
Probably lots more but my memory fades.
enjoy
B
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moabbeth
Nov 11, 2003, 3:02 AM
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Do the first pitch on both After Six and After Seven. They're probably the best pitches on those routes anyway (1st pitch).
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iamthewallress
Nov 11, 2003, 3:20 AM
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The Left Side of Moby Dick has a bit of hand crack in the back of it, and a fantastic ledge with bit belay bolts on top! I've heard good things about Peter Pan too. :shock: (Ignore me.)
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saderinger
Nov 12, 2003, 12:57 AM
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Highwaystar!! It might be my favorite one pitch ever and I think it is 5.9 has some cool variations and really easy acess to tr.
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youreup
Nov 12, 2003, 1:17 AM
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DNB is 5.9 with one 10b move. May want to wait 'till the days get longer again before getting on it. :D
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couloir
Nov 12, 2003, 1:22 AM
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Definitely do Highway Star. It's 10a and one of the best routes ever. Also check out the lower yos. falls amphitheater. There's an amazing 5.8 that ends at bolts. Also check out Trial by fire, a long and hard 5.8 offwidth.
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davidji
Nov 12, 2003, 1:34 AM
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There are several moderate single-pitch climbs in the Knob Hill area. I wouldn't call any of them classics.
Several of the suggestions above are multi-pitch climbs. Bishop's Terrace is a classic short climb and goes easily as 1 pitch with a 60m rope.
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njbourne
Nov 17, 2003, 6:12 AM
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Registered: Mar 4, 2003
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Dito for Bishop's Terrace
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radistrad
Nov 19, 2003, 3:05 AM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2002
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Bishops Terrace is great. Bring a #4 Camalot and a few #2's, belay from the top of the 5.6 starting crack and do it in one pitch from there (see supertopo)
Reeds Regular Route is good, Reeds Direct will kick your ass but is awesome, I was on it last wed.
While your at the Reeds area check out Ejesta, you will need to build an anchor at the top of the first pitch and the second has bolts, I like to rap with two ropes.
Central Pillar is one of the best multi pitch 5.9's, but its not give away and its frozen this time of the year, work up to it and have a few large cams.
Jam Crack is good, follow the crowds.
Highway Star is a pump fest for a 50' route, its 10a and top ropeable (off of trees)
Dont miss the 5 open books area.
Check out the Supertopo, there are so many good routes in the Valley.
Have fun and be safe.
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sheehan_kat
Nov 19, 2003, 3:18 AM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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the first pitch of Commitment, 5.8 handcrack
You can do this with a 60m rope- it is mellow and amazingly stellar.
Good Bolts for anchor up top- its a rope stretcher.
perfect jams, good gear.
Lena's Lieback at swans slab,
liback to higher jamming
good bolts at anchor and big ledge at top.
this area is good for groups.
Yos Falls amphiteatre for sure!! ditto!-
no ledges at the bolts, but theres a beautiful short 5.8 handcrack
"ranger crack" not in the current book i think, but very spottable.
youll know its the one b/c it looks the easiest of all the lines, and is near a corner on the left.
make sure to check the ratings on some of the other guys suggestions,
dont get sandbagged, Valley 5.9 can be just about anything sometimes,
if you are unfamilliar or unsure ask around.
have fun!!
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billcoe_
Nov 23, 2003, 9:17 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Damn: I clicked the link to supertopo above and my memory came back in a big way. Rather than prattle on this may be the definative list of lists: best just to buy the thing IMO. Have it with you while you are there.
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/yofreeclimbs.html#routelist
They say (and I belive it):
"Yosemite Valley Free Climbs includes over 230 of the best routes in Yosemite Valley from 16-pitch trad climbs to one-pitch sport routes. While many hard Yosemite testpieces are included, this book focuses on topropes, crags, and multi-pitch climbs in the 5.4-5.9 range. Includes formerly obscure climbs to provide more options for avoiding crowds. As in all SuperTopo books, the authors personally climbed and documented each climb with meticulous care to create the most detailed and accurate topos ever published."
http://www.camp4.com/index.php?newsid=493 (review)
Probably won't get better than that unless you caould talk Chris MaCnamara to go climb with you:-) :lol:
Bill
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