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crankingclimber
Nov 13, 2003, 4:20 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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Hey all
I'm off to the looking glass for a week over thanksgiving, and was hoping to do some aid while I was down there. The problem is that for the last 2 and a half years i've been trad, sport and bouldering only, no aiding. The last aiding I did was VERY simple, so I'm not very experienced at all, and I was using the old loop style daisies. I've read the loop style have gone the way of the dinosaur and was wondering what the best method of using the adjustables was. I have some pairs from friends and have worked out a system, but I don't know if it's the best one or not. Could somebody explain what they have found to be the best way and why? I've sifted through a lot of stuff on this site, including PTPP's stuff, but haven't really found much in the way of the basic movement and the best way to hitch the adjustables to your harness (just girth hitch em through the loops that the belay loop goes through?). Any help would be appreciated
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moabbeth
Nov 13, 2003, 4:38 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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I got the Yates adjustable daisies and they made a HUGE difference for me. You girth hitch them around your harness like you would a rope then attach the loop up top next to the buckle axle on a biner along with your ladder, then clip to your pieces or ascenders depending if you're leading or following. The buckle axle allows you to take in as much as you need (unlike old school, where you'd have to unclip the biner and move it into a new loop of the daisy) and let out as much as you need. Saves a lot of time. Just make sure when you thread the buckle end through the loop when girth hitching that it's facing towards you, otherwise if it is facing away from you and against the rock if for some reason you leaned in funny and the buckle hit the rock it could cause your daisy to release. Not that it would be epic or anything, but worth noting.
I hope that made sense. I'm still an aid newbie and can't explain things perfectly but all the aiding I've done since getting them has been WAY more productive than before.
Check out the website for more:
http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/bigwall/etriers/daisystrap.htm#3
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passthepitonspete
Nov 13, 2003, 7:22 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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In reply to: "... but all the aiding I've done since getting them has been WAY more productive than before."
Why climb a big wall, when you can simply pull yourself up using the 2:1 mechanical advantage that adjustable daisies offer?
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copperhead
Nov 13, 2003, 7:45 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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In reply to: Why climb a big wall, when you can simply pull yourself up using the 2:1 mechanical advantage that adjustable daisies offer?
Why use the stairs when there is an elevator? Why use any muscle in the body or expend any energy if it isn't absolutely necessary? Why have a body? Isn't a brain good enough?
Long live fat-ass mutants of the de-evolutionary chain...
15...
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passthepitonspete
Nov 13, 2003, 7:48 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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In reply to: "Long live fat-ass mutants of the de-evolutionary chain..."
You're on to me, aren't you?
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copperhead
Nov 13, 2003, 7:57 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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In reply to: You're on to me, aren't you?
Well, actually, Wesley's Sniper rifle scope needs a little work to sight it in. Until then, it ain't much. Don't worry, I won't cap you. I might yell at you though (like the old days...).
Uuuuurrrrrrppppppp!!!!!
YUR GONNA DIE!!!
Now or later...
Cheers to me fellow brohas!
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passthepitonspete
Nov 13, 2003, 8:05 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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In reply to: "YUR GONNA DIE!!!"
I remember that one.
Fly Coil Air - the Better Way to see Yosemite! All the views with none [not] of the fear...
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copperhead
Nov 13, 2003, 8:14 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: "YUR GONNA DIE!!!"
Hey, that's no fair. Coiler's never been on this website but if he had been, he would have talked more schist that you could believe...
Coiler Rules!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Coiler for Prez!!!!
Coil Air for astronomical research... he's already halfway to the moon... ;)
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crankingclimber
Nov 13, 2003, 1:21 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 237
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Hey PTPP, can you explain the 2:1 system? I've heard you rave about it's effectiveness in many places on the site, but have enver been able to find where you explain it. Thanks Moabeth for the reply, very helpful.
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flamer
Nov 13, 2003, 7:12 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
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I truly love going to the top of a wall that friends are climbing and screaming Guns n' Roses lyric's at them- Hey (insert friends name) "YOU KNOW WHERE YOU ARE???" , " YOU"RE(insert wall name) ON THE CAPTAIN BABY!!", "YUR GONNA DIE!!!"....
josh
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