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cgranite
Nov 14, 2003, 5:26 AM
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I was going to start buying BD camalots after I got the Met. TCU's, but I like the way they feel so much that I'm thinking about running it out with all metolius. I have been unsuccessful with finding good reviews on their larger sized cams (5-10). I want to know if there's anything wrong with them, since I don't see them used so often?
It would be great to get some input, ABOUT the new powercams not the old ones which are different?
If it matters, I will primarily be using them at Yosemite.
Thanks
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boz84
Nov 14, 2003, 5:40 AM
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Largest powecam I have now is a 7, and I dont see myself going any higher for a while, until the "need" arises. But it works well, very solid piece.
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cantbuymefriends
Nov 14, 2003, 8:14 AM
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There was a camming-device review in Climbing sometime last year (I think), so I don't know if they tested the new or old Powercams.
So what did they say about Metolius Powercams?
"On average, Metolius uses a slightly smaller cam angle than other manufacturers, so during a fall the cam lobes push harder against the rock. The compromise with this design is a small loss of camming range. The cams are made with a highly durable aluminum, and the faces are quite wide for added grip."
and
"All sizes feature cam stops."
but
"The drawback of the Metolius cams is a narrow head width in the largest sizes that compromises their stability."
Overall price vs. performance value: A-
Hope this was some kind of help.
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sbclimber
Nov 14, 2003, 8:31 AM
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go with the BD's for the bigger sizes. Metolious is good, but for the bigger ones BDs are sooo stable.
They weigh a bit more but you can bring less because each fits a larger range. With the bigger Metolious's the narrow profile compared with the camming range gives them lopsided feel.(I have always felt)
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cgranite
Nov 15, 2003, 12:10 AM
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At what size do the powercams seem to have problems?
I'm thinking about getting 5-8 and then getting BD (2-4) to overlap a bit.
Are there any people that own a 9 or 10 powercam?
Say what you think of them if you do.
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vegastradguy
Nov 15, 2003, 12:22 AM
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the biggest, most stable BD i own is the #4.5, but its about a heavy bastard, and awkward to handle, too...takes alot of effort to retract compated to smaller cams. if i hadnt gotten it on sale, i would have bought the WC #5 instead.
i think the general consensus has been, BD up to about a #4-ish, then go to the Wild Country's, which are more stable, and stronger than the BD's at the two or three largest sizes.
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dpurf
Nov 15, 2003, 12:29 AM
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I have the New 9 and 10 powercam and I do like them. Yes, the range is less than the BD, But I do find them to be stable. I also find the handling of them to be better then the BD. For some reason I just fumble about with the BD.
The Powercams are working for me. Maybe try to find someone with the powercams and climb with them. Play around with them and see what you think. That is the best way to see if they will work for you.
Cheers
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wlderdude
Nov 15, 2003, 2:19 AM
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I also find the Metolius cams easier to handle. I have found no easier design to get off the rack and in the rock. There is never a need to put the cam in your teeth to turn it around.
The only large Metolius cams I have are Fat Cams in sizes 7 & 8. I hope to get the largest size Power Cam soon.
The main drawback I see with BD cams are the weight. Metolius cams are lighter than most brands and much lighter than BD.
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esoteric1
Nov 15, 2003, 2:43 AM
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well,
I have the metolius units up to green, I had the black one but it I never liked it, always awkward to place, i tried some of the other ones larger than that and hated them too, I think that all units have their optimal sizes and i stick to those sizes, i guess its preference though, just never liked to trust my head to a woblie piece, aliens and metolius for the smaller sizes, bd for the mid to slightly larger sizes and for those huge ones, its your lead and i wont even buy those things.
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andypro
Nov 15, 2003, 4:28 AM
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In reply to: They weigh a bit more but you can bring less because each fits a larger range.
This is absolutely false. Stop buying into BD's marketing hype. You dont get to carry 4 cams instead of 6 jsut because the expansion range is larger (which it really isn't any noticably larger than tech friends etc in sizes above 1). You still need the same number of pieces to protect a climb, no matter how good the expansion range is.
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cjstudent
Nov 15, 2003, 5:15 AM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
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Do you guys prefer the flexible stems of Met. or rigid stems such as the BD?
I was thinking that all in all the flexible stems would be better, especially for horizontal cracks but am I missing something here?
I am new to trad and placing gear, my rack is currently all passive pro, BD Stoppers and Hex's along with some Tricams. I am expanding to active pro and wanted some input on the different stems.
-Aaron
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phugganut
Nov 15, 2003, 6:00 AM
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For larger cams there are nothing as good as Wild Country Tech Friends. Period. Don't get BD's or Metolius, get Tech Friends instead.
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andypro
Nov 15, 2003, 2:52 PM
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In reply to: Do you guys prefer the flexible stems of Met. or rigid stems such as the BD? I was thinking that all in all the flexible stems would be better, especially for horizontal cracks but am I missing something here?
Black Diamond cams ARE flexible. The only ones that I can think of that are not flexible and currently on the market are Wild Country Forged Friends. You can still use rigid stemmed cams in horizontal placements, but you ahve to do a "Gunks Tie Off" so you dont snap the stem. do a search on it. Forged Friends are light as all get out. If your looking to save weight with cams, theres no viable substitute. For general climbing though, I wouldn't worry about going so far. I've got a few of them, and I love them. They're top notch. You jsut have to be a bit mroe mindful of how you place them is all.
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cgranite
Nov 15, 2003, 4:24 PM
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phugganut,
that wasn't very persuasive. I would like to know why you think Tech friends are better than any other brand. I haven't heard a lot of good stuff about WC so let me know.
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