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winglady
Nov 19, 2003, 2:12 PM
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I see a lot of posts here talking about great 5.12 routes or asking for recommendations in the 5.11 - 5.13 range. To be honest, I only personally know a couple of people who climb at that range.
I suspect that other "intermediate" or "moderate" (or "we're not that good at this, but we sure have a good time") climbers like me are out there on this forum, shy :oops: about asking about great 5.6 or 5.8 climbs because we always read about the harder stuff. There sure are a lot of climbers out there waiting to get on the easier routes when I climb at JTree or closer to home at Eldo.
How about it? Anyone else out there? :?:
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gblauer
Moderator
Nov 19, 2003, 2:18 PM
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I am a very moderate climber:
upto v2/v3 bouldering
5.10+ sport lead
I'll try anything on top rope and generally get to the top...eventually. Best yet was a 5.11+
(Gunks) 5.6 Trad lead.
There...I said it...I am a moderate climber. (Which in no way reflects my ADDICTION/OBSESSION with climbing. I want to quit my day job...)
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rags
Nov 19, 2003, 2:25 PM
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aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
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geezergecko
Nov 19, 2003, 2:45 PM
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Closet? What closet? Plain and simple, I suck. After 3 years, I can still only top rope 5.8... barely. Doing a trad lead of a 5.6 is an epic for me. Dammit, I suck. Still have fun though.
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dredsovrn
Nov 19, 2003, 2:49 PM
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That's me. Love to climb. Perhaps obsessed. Top rope 5.10 (sometimes). Boulder V3 (sometimes), trad lead-haven't done it yet, but I will soon adn I bet a 5.4 has me scared to death.
This is my first year, and I plan to progress, but climibing is what is important to me, not the rating necessarily. Maybe that is something that you say when you can't climb real high ratings, but that is how I feel.
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mother_sheep
Nov 19, 2003, 3:08 PM
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Most days I'm a moderate climber. Other lucky days I fall into the intermediate category. I can lead 5.9 sport and 5.6 trad. But have also TR'd 5.11c/d clean on more than one occasion. It depends on the day for me really. I never know what I'm capable of until I just get out there and do it. It's kind of frustrating sometimes. I haven't even been climbing for 2 years yet and I've done 3 alpine roputes, 1 wall (pretty small one, Touchstone) and been all over the place and I still haven't completely broken into the intermediate range. But I know that in a few years, I'm going to be GREAT! I just have to keep at it and be patient.
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mattdog
Nov 19, 2003, 3:12 PM
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Like everyone else said... I'll top-rope anything. I've even come close to sending a 5.11. I think we should re-evaluate the definitions though:
If you can lead up to 5.9, you're intermediate. If you can lead 5.10 and 5.11, you're advanced. If you can lead 5.12, you're ELITE.
I personally think that 5.10 is pretty good for leading. You can't really get to that level without some experience or pure natural ability.
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phaedrus
Nov 19, 2003, 3:17 PM
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Moderate climber here, and I've got no problem with that. I can comfortably lead .9 sport and just started leading trad, so I'm in the .4-.6 range. On tr, I can do a .10, working towards my .11's. On a good day I can crank out a v2, maybe a v3, but bouldering never been a real big interest to me, I'm much more into being on a rope. I have a great time and learn something about climbing and about myself each and every time I go out, so as long as I continue to grow as a climber and as a person, that's all that really matters to me.
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reno
Nov 19, 2003, 3:19 PM
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I'm happiest when climbing a long, multi-pitch 5.7-.8 route.
Something like Ruper, Rewritten, or Bastille Crack.
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tradpuppy
Nov 19, 2003, 3:23 PM
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Just 10 short years ago, you were doing pretty good to climb 5.8s around here. But the Chatt. area is notorious for numbers chasers. Nowadays, when you tell someone you like to climb 5.6s and 7s, they just give you this little upturned nose and say "oh". Kind of frustrating for a guy like me who's pushing 50. My fave is when one of these younguns says something like, "oh, so-and-so's 70 and he's climbing 5.12s". Clue: those guys are freakin' mutants to begin with!!!111
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lunatixx
Nov 19, 2003, 3:24 PM
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grades aren't what matters.. the other day i was swetting like crazy on a route and still got on top... i was very proud, i tought it was a tough one. blah it was a 5.7 and i usually get 5.7 no problem. then i climbed a 5.9 like it was stairs... pffft i guess it depends on what part on your body is working, muscles, balance or fear.
after each climbs something new is in me. power , streight, rythm.
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pixelguru
Nov 19, 2003, 3:35 PM
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So that's what I am... a "moderate" climber.
All this time, I just thought I was a wuss.
Boulder V3
TR 5.10 gym
sport 5.9
trad 5.5
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cracklover
Nov 19, 2003, 3:44 PM
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Lunatixx is right, we all have our strengths and weaknesses. For example, I'm definitely a "moderate" climber at best when it comes to trad leading. My last trip out west, I was at the edge of my abilities on 5.7 and 5.8 climbs. And even on my home turf back east, two of my proudest leads this year were a 5.8 and a FA of a route that's around 5.7.
But like she said, every climb is a new experience - an opportunity for growth... and FUN!
GO
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sheppe
Nov 19, 2003, 3:55 PM
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I guess I fall into the advanced category. I lead 10d, but I will try anything on a top rope. Hopefully next season I'm going to tick off a few 5.11s. Up until this year, though, the best I had lead was a 10b. I've been climbing for three(ish) years.
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robbovius
Nov 19, 2003, 4:12 PM
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I am absolutely a happy moderate/intermediate! I can get up 50% of the 5.9s I try, have never met a .10 that wouldn't spit me off after 3 moves tops and am happiest toproping 5.6 - 5.8s all day long.
I've never lead anything yet, but there's this 20 foot 5.5 I like to highball and scaaare myself on a couple times a week ;-)
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dingus
Nov 19, 2003, 4:21 PM
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I notice each and every one of you moderate climbers describes the extent of your moderation as numeric expressions, ie. 5.6, 5.9, five dot what EVER!
You are all closet competitors! You still compare yourselves to others, despite your mantles of moderation! You still want to be hardasses, but you're like me and refuse to make the payments!
I am a moderate climber. Numbers cannot express it. Its an attitudinal thing. One person's moderation is another's "excessive risk."
DMT
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shorty
Nov 19, 2003, 4:23 PM
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"Moderate" is an interesting term. When I started climbing, it seemed this referred to 5.7 or 5.8. As I progressed (some people question this ever occurring), 5.9 appeared to be the new benchmark. Once I started chasing bolts, the 5.10's were considered moderate. With recent travels, I've been to areas where the 5.11's are used as a nice way to shake out the morning cobwebs. After being on the couch for 6 months.
With rising standards, I fear that if I ever have the ability to jump on Eldo's "The Naked Edge", it will almost certainly be considered a moderate route! Which means that Longs' "Yellow Wall", Chiefshead's "Bird of Fire" ("It's a clip-up, dude."), and Spearhead's "Spear Me the Details" may all be considered intermediate alpine climbs. Basically I'm doomed to suck forever, so I'd better learn to deal with it pretty soon.
But we moderate climbers don't have to climb garbage routes. We'll leave the spotlight for hardmen/women. And I'll stick to the tried and true classics, justifying my dismal performance to the ailment du jour. ("Dude, this bursitis really limits my dyno from the gaston to the mono!") Bring on the waaahh-mbulance.
I'm assuming this is Diane starting out this thread. The genius in me feels that Charlie probably would go by "wing-gentleman" or "wing-lord" or "wing-man" (as in, "you can be my .... anytime"). If so, long time no see. I think the last time we climbed together was a CMC outing at Jackson Creek Dome many moons ago. Holler, and maybe we can go hack up moderate route -- whatever the rating -- together.
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dingus
Nov 19, 2003, 4:23 PM
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I notice each and every one of you moderate climbers describes the extent of your moderation as numeric expressions, ie. 5.6, 5.9, five dot what EVER!
You are all Closet Competitors! You still compare yourselves to others, despite your mantles of moderation! You still want to be hardasses, but you're like me and refuse to make the payments!
I am a moderate climber. Numbers cannot express it. Its an attitudinal thing. One person's moderation is another's "excessive risk."
DMT
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reno
Nov 19, 2003, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: I notice each and every one of you moderate climbers describes the extent of your moderation as numeric expressions, ie. 5.6, 5.9, five dot what EVER!
Perhaps.
The only reason I look at a number is to make sure I don't inadvertently get myself way in over my head. More of a safety factor than anything else.
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nikegirl
Nov 19, 2003, 4:27 PM
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/raises hand
moderate
ditto to lunatixx
i've been stronger at times shy 11's
that is not of late
and lay off a few weeks, head back and i'm in a
totally different state of climbing.
feels good, no matter what.
it's alll good.
edited: doh
trad forum
um...not lead trad...follow only so far.
(heehee hands just started to sweat)
sucks it's winter.
:D
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holmeslovesguinness
Nov 19, 2003, 4:35 PM
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Pfffft. Moderate Schmoderate. At the end of the day the only thing that matters (besides coming home in one piece) is whether or not you had a good time climbing.
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raindog
Nov 19, 2003, 4:37 PM
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5.4s quiver at the sight of me and cower at the sound of my hexes.
-Jeff
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marshall84
Nov 19, 2003, 4:49 PM
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Hi I'm impressed by all you moderate climbers. I can second 5.6 through 5.8, still don't take the sharp end. The closest I get to 5.10 is the name on the side of the shoes.
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javaguy
Nov 19, 2003, 5:03 PM
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I'm a moderate climber too...my hardest trad lead is 5.8 but the most fun trad lead was rated 5.6. It's easy to forget that the grades are a number that tries to describe how hard the climb is, not how fun it might be.
I'm better than many climbers who climb 5.12 ..even if I fall off at 5.10. Why? Because I have more fun than them. And that is what climbing is all about, having fun :D
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fear
Nov 19, 2003, 5:14 PM
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I always love it when the climbing mags have some article on trad climbing destinations titled "WonderWall area Moderates". Cool, I think, something for us mortals who are tired of reading about fantasy 5.15's and 500 foot 5.10 OW's. But then it's usually all some list of 10a,b,c,d's with maybe a 9X thrown in for a warmup....
I'd be happy and lucky to grovel up a 10a on TR.
I think the "moderate" articles have just become a way for the authors to brag. "Yeah, it's awkward and pumpy for a 10c but there's a decent black alien placement after the first 70 feet".
-Fear
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