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danmcph
Nov 21, 2003, 3:09 AM
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I am thinking of getting some of these. How well do they work (how steep, how solid/hard of ice can they handle)? Who makes the lightest (I am looking mainly at the Trangos)?
Pros? Cons?
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fear
Nov 21, 2003, 3:24 AM
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I've only dealt with a pair of Kong's a few years ago. Didn't work at all over rock. But the guy wearing them was pretty big. Bent/smashed em to hell.....
-Fear
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olympicmtnboy
Nov 21, 2003, 4:06 AM
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I got a pair of CAMP LC-480s (I think that's it) for summer backpacking traverses and big volcanoes. I wouldn't use em on rock cause that's not at all what they're designed for, but on hard snow they work great. I used em on Rainier a bit ago and they were a lot nicer that my 4lb steel monsters to carry and wear. I got strap-ons so I can carry em on high backpacking trips where I might run into some snow as well. Just use em for what they're made for and you'll be fine. If you take em out and try to climb rock and vertical ice with em don't be complaining if they die.
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lambone
Nov 21, 2003, 4:46 AM
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I have the camps as well, they rock! I'll never wear heavy crampons on a nother volcano. Gotta be a bit more careful with them though...
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pico23
Nov 21, 2003, 6:14 AM
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for glacier travel and snow climbing they are great. Much lighter on both the feet and the pack. They are not intended for technical ice or mixed terrain. My partner developed an appreciation for them while in south america.
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tradman
Nov 21, 2003, 10:45 AM
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If you want to trade adaptability and safety for a couple less pounds weight, go ahead. Personally, since I'm not psychic and am therefore unable to definitively judge what the day's climbing will bring, I'll be sticking with the G14s.
If the weatherman says fine, dress for armageddon.
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ep
Nov 21, 2003, 6:42 PM
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In reply to: If you want to trade adaptability and safety for a couple less pounds weight, go ahead.
I do want to trade adaptability for weight. Safety? Sometimes going light is safer, but your point is well taken. More than once I've enountered unexpected water ice in the spring with my 9 ounce Al toy ice axe and wondered what the hell I was thinking.
The aluminum gadgets are just another set of tools in the box. Use them when they fit they job.
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brianinslc
Nov 21, 2003, 7:50 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: If you want to trade adaptability and safety for a couple less pounds weight, go ahead. I do want to trade adaptability for weight. Safety? Sometimes going light is safer, but your point is well taken. More than once I've enountered unexpected water ice in the spring with my 9 ounce Al toy ice axe and wondered what the hell I was thinking.
I'll second the Camp LC-480's. Seem durable enough for low angle glacier ice, styro and snow. I think they have a lighter version available now.
One I'm curious about is the STUBAI ULTRALIGHT UNIVERSAL CRAMPONS which REI just had on sale for 90 bucks-ish. I tried a pair on over my approach shoes...and...the durn harness fit pretty well (almost bought them right on the spot). If anyone has any weight comparisons between the Camp and Stubai, please post up!!
I've a Kong ultralight ice axe...and...yeah, have been scared downclimbing 50 degree hard ice with a heavy pack on with it...but, the durn thing worked...
Speed IS safety. And, light is right. Yada yada.
Brian in SLC
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danmcph
Nov 21, 2003, 7:51 PM
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I was thinking of using these on Liberty Ridge in early season. Bad idea? How steep of water ice could these handle if you HAD too?
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fear
Nov 25, 2003, 6:35 AM
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Ummmmm..... Buy a pair and try them out ahead of time this winter. Try not to bring critical untested gear like that on a real trip.
But imagine 60-70 degree black smooth bullet-proof concrete-like stuff when your 3000' above Thumb rock gasping your lungs out after suddenly realizing you should have roped up but now can't , I'd want steel on my feet. Worrying about folding my points in such a situation is not something I would want. Sure, early season probably wouldn't be that bad. ....... probably....
When you going? We're thinking of last week in May. I'll have steel stuff.
-Fear
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punk
Nov 25, 2003, 9:07 AM
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Aluminum is the schizzle for fast and light stuff I will assume that u collecting as much data as u can about your objective and if u know for fact that the slop is moderate and the latest current conditions were in favor then u go out there with your lightest toys if I don’t know a route and I cant get any current information I plan for the worst so here comes the heavier axe and crampons info is the key for fast and light so u can plan accordingly I have two pairs of aluminum pons Cassin and Stubai and no complaint when used for what they intended
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tradman
Nov 25, 2003, 11:15 AM
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That's a good point (no pun) about putting them over approach shoes.
I love my big boots but they suck to walk long distances in, so I quite often use approach shoes when I'm not really "climbing", more just "hiking on snow". It would be nice to have some light crampons to put over them for messing around. Obviously I wouldn't be able to tackle hard/steep stuff in approach shoes anyway, so the aluminiums might be a good option.
nice!
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ryanpfleger
Nov 25, 2003, 9:27 PM
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>>How steep of water ice could these handle if you HAD too?
I've climbed a short section of 70ish degree thin WI and Mixed with my Kong aluminums (I think they're called Grand Courses, they're anodized purple) and one mountaineering axe once. That was... interesting... my partner had two tools and steel crampons though so I was just following thankfully. My crampons did a better job on the steep ice than my single axe did. Also climbed a fair amount of easy rock in those crampons on that same route and they held up suprisingly well. I weigh 155 and had a light (10-15 lbs?) pack though.
I would say the steepness isn't as big a factor as the hardness of the ice, as long as its a short section.
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