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dredsovrn


Nov 21, 2003, 9:59 AM
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Aid Climbing Training
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I recently read the post about Ricardol soloing Zodiac. It rekindled my interest in aid climbing. I am interested in all kinds of climbing, but have only been working on trad, and bouldering. I am planning on some alpine this winter, but have not seen any guides or schools that offer training on aid.

I am sure there will be someone who says just go out and try it, but I would rather work with someone who knows what they are doing. It seems like there are a lot of opportunities to tie your gear in a big knot with aid. Any good schools or guides out there for this one. Not a lot of aid going on in PA, but i would like to learn.


climbercaret


Nov 21, 2003, 10:09 AM
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Yosemite offers classes or guided trips , I have taken a few and have learned allot , The Rock Climbing Gym I belong has started to offer Aid climbing seminars and I have met several aid climbers at the Gym (Located in Fresno ) .


aid312


Nov 21, 2003, 5:37 PM
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Try this guy. I have heard only good things about his classes.

http://www.marksynnott.com/guiding/guiding.shtml


Partner holdplease2


Nov 21, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Aid is all about getting your gear in a knot. And all of everyone elses gear you borrowed as well.

Actually, you may want to consider reading a little bit and give it a go at your local crag before your "aid lesson" oTake along someone who owes you an epic belay.

This way, when you take your "aid lesson" you will appreciate what you are learning more and have some perspective on why it is important to do things a certain way.

Aid is a truly beautiful thing...what excuse to buy more gear isn't?

-Kate.


copperhead


Nov 21, 2003, 6:28 PM
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Training?

Get a job as a carpenter - you get to carry heavy stuff and swing a hammer all day long... (but after a while it gets kinda boring). Other than that, to train for your next wall, do a wall.


jimdavis


Nov 22, 2003, 11:24 PM
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I just took the course Mark Synnott runs for Aid, and I was very impressed.

We went out to Cathedral Ledge in North Conway, NH and went over all the basics. We were all comfortable placing gear so he showed us his setup, the basic movement, and we went out and did it. We each lead a pitch of clean aid while on TR (trailed a "lead" line.)

After that we went over Ascending (efficently and quickly, ala Big-Wall style), lower outs, and Hooking. We jugged lines and lowered out off of pieces, and climbed a pitch with just about all hooks, while on TR. (Never have i prayed so much in my life.)

After that it was starting to get late so we just watch a demo on placing pins and funkin' on em.

It was an awesome course, and you couldn't pick a better guy to learn from. Check out his resume if you doubt me.

Also, Mark is ALL ABOUT the bounce testing. We were going "agro" all day on those pieces. He had us bouncing on our placements till we just about had aneurysms. That was the first and only time i've needed a wall hammer to get out a #6 Rock.

It was a great course, and Mark is an amazing guy. I'd highly recommend learning from him.


rogueclimber


Nov 23, 2003, 12:12 AM
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Training?

Get a job as a carpenter - you get to carry heavy stuff and swing a hammer all day long... (but after a while it gets kinda boring). Other than that, to train for your next wall, do a wall.
Do a wall and crank some good tunes! Yeah Bryan, you can not forget the music brother!
Swing Yer hammer Mate!


passthepitonspete


Nov 23, 2003, 9:52 AM
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Sometimes you just have to shut up and climb.

Walking up to the base of a big wall and soloing it, like Ricardo did, sometimes works. This can be a good idea if you have had the opportunity to study from a Wall Doctor like Mark. But sometimes this doesn't work, and you can end up dead.

But bringing tunes is fundamental, eh Gabe? I seem to remember a rockin' night on Big Sur Ledge.


maculated


Nov 23, 2003, 11:24 AM
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Walking up to the base of a big wall and soloing it, like Ricardo did, sometimes works. This can be a good idea if you have had the opportunity to study from a Wall Doctor like Mark. But sometimes this doesn't work, and you can end up dead.

Word.


Partner calamity_chk


Nov 23, 2003, 5:28 PM
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Training?

Get a job as a carpenter - you get to carry heavy stuff and swing a hammer all day long... (but after a while it gets kinda boring). Other than that, to train for your next wall, do a wall.

haha, nicely said.

In reply to:
This way, when you take your "aid lesson" you will appreciate what you are learning more and have some perspective on why it is important to do things a certain way.

Aid is a truly beautiful thing...what excuse to buy more gear isn't?

poetry, i tell ya - poetry.


malabarista


Nov 24, 2003, 8:52 AM
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Ammon's a great teacher.

http://www.rocknrun.net/ammon.html


rogueclimber


Nov 24, 2003, 11:43 AM
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:shock: before
8) after
................................


changling


Nov 24, 2003, 9:38 PM
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I took an aid and big wall technique course with Ed Palen from Rock & River in Keene NY. I thought it was great and recommend it. EMS also offer a two day big wall course in North Conway, NH.


jello


Nov 24, 2003, 9:48 PM
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Get out and do it! Find a friend...Go solo...Whatever man......

You only live once. Twice if your Lucky!


jimdavis


Nov 25, 2003, 12:01 AM
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I'd recommend not going solo untill you have it dialed. If your still learning, there's a strong possibility that your gonna need help with something. Find a buddy, and pay him to belay you with food.


squish


Nov 25, 2003, 12:58 AM
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Find a buddy, and pay him to belay you with food.
I don't think anyone could ever pay me enough that I would let them belay me with food. I insist on a rope, at least.


jimdavis


Nov 30, 2003, 4:24 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Find a buddy, and pay him to belay you with food.
I don't think anyone could ever pay me enough that I would let them belay me with food. I insist on a rope, at least.

[thinks about it...thinks some more about it...finally gets it.]

LOL :lol:


Partner holdplease2


Nov 30, 2003, 6:25 PM
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Once you have a solo system dialed, think about getting on something fairly easy...like a 5.11 crack maybe, and climb it several times, timing yourself. Don't rush so that you make a mistake, but try to do things to help yourself go faster on that one route.

Or climb it once and time yourself, go climb elsewhere, come back and time it again.

Some aiding can't be rushed. Other times you have easy climbing ahead and being able to gain some ground by knowing how to go fast over "easy" ground can make all the difference.

Pretty soon you will find that you can aid a crack as fast as a sketched sport climber can send the route beside you. Or you will realize that the only thing holding you back is the fact that you are moving so fast you get out of breath.

Both of these are really great feelings!

-Kate.


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