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tenn_dawg
Nov 24, 2003, 4:54 AM
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I'm sure this decleration is not going to make me very popular with people who don't share this point of view (climbsomething) but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say it anyway.
*The kind of shoes you have really dosen't make any difference.*
As long as you've got some sticky rubber down there, and they fit you alright, you're going to be okay.
The subtle differences between where your toes are concentrated, the absolute edging power, little ridges on the heel, velcro, laces, slippers, stealth rubber, pretty colors... It's all bogus...forget all that stuff.
If you really are in the marked for a first pair of climbing shoes, here's what you do.
1. Go to your LOCAL CLIMBING SHOP.
2. Look for a "SALE" bin.
3. Try on the shoes that they have on sale, you're going for some that fit pretty snug, but don't hurt to stand in.
4. If there's not a sale bin (90% of the time there is), go ahead and buy some full price ones.
And never, EVER blame your shoes when you fall off a route. Unless your shoes are really 2 big cinder blocks with rubber glued to them, I'm pretty sure it wasn't their fault.
People don't believe me when I tell them this, but you will not be able to climb routes significantly more difficult because of high dollar shoes that hurt you to wear.
"But Travis," you say, " when I got my Krypton rubber ultra dagger velcros, I was finally able to send my sick project!"
Is that so? Well I'll tell you what, I'll bet my bottom dollar that if you went back to that project tomorrow with the most henious beater shoes you own, you'll be able to send. Why? Because you (notice that last word), YOU, can climb it.
Here's another little game I like to do. Go to your favorite boulderfield, with a pad, a coupla beers, and your flip flops. Warm up, and jump on a problem that usually takes you a couple of tries to do in your flops. (no heel hooking problems please) I'll bet that you can send that sucker if you work it. The beta will be totally different, but I know you can do it. In FLOPS!
Don't believe me? Give it a shot, you may just be plesantly suprised.
*Down with techy overpriced shoes!!*
*Up with hard ass dirtbag climbers!!*
Travis
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maculated
Nov 24, 2003, 5:02 AM
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What he said.
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jookyhead
Nov 24, 2003, 5:13 AM
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In reply to: Krypton rubber ultra dagger velcros
:lol:
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hishopper
Nov 24, 2003, 5:16 AM
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Congratulations - of the 46,642,893 shoe threads I've seen come and go, this is the first one I've taken the time to actually read... much less reply to!
I agree wholeheartedly. And not to off-topic (please don't), but I'de venture to say you could send your self-same aforementioned bouldering project BAREFOOT. Try it, you may never go back. Unless you're into it to impress someone....
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styndall
Nov 24, 2003, 5:28 AM
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I've been on some sick smeary mantles that I've tried over and over and over, then, after trading shoes with the partner (sportiva rubber for 5.10) sent straightaway, without trouble.
Shoes do make a difference.
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squish
Nov 24, 2003, 5:34 AM
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Word. You won't get an argument from me.
I started climbing in Boreal Aces. When those were blown out beyond repair, I thought—well, I'm more experienced now, so I probably need a better, more technical aggressive shoe, right?
Wrong. My second pair of shoes took my climbing two steps backwards. They just didn't fit my foot well, simply due to their downturned design which I thought I just needed to get used to. They hurt, and I couldn't bring myself to put much weight on my feet. My footwork went out the window. When these blew out, I didn't even bother resoling.
Now I have a pair of LaSportiva Cliffs. The "all-around" beginner shoe. Well why is it that I can climb harder in them? Is it because it's a better technical shoe?
No. It's because I'm more comfortable in them.
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tenn_dawg
Nov 24, 2003, 5:34 AM
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In reply to: I've been on some sick smeary mantles that I've tried over and over and over, then, after trading shoes with the partner (sportiva rubber for 5.10) sent straightaway, without trouble. Shoes do make a difference.
Try it again with your own shoes dude. You can do it.
(words to an old MinorThreat song are wafting through my head..."It's in your head, It's in your head, It's in your head...")
Travis
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mtclmb
Nov 24, 2003, 5:35 AM
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I've tried a variety of shoes from Boreal to Sportiva, and wound up with 5.10 because they fit the best and are comfortable.
and the Stealth rubber rocks
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redpiton
Nov 24, 2003, 5:53 AM
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Hummm... shoes don't make the climbs any easier you say?
So back in the early days of REAL dirtbag climbers when sticky rubber was first invented...climbing didn't progress amazingly fast? Do you think people would be sending v10+ climbs with your old stinky shoes?
Shoes do help. Granted, its human nature to pass off an excuse for not being able to do something, but the physical shoe with edges and sticky rubber... it helps. If anything it doesn't make you a better climber, but it makes certain moves and climbs easier.
I do find your topic to be entertaining though! I hope you don't become the cat in your signature picture.
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coldclimb
Nov 24, 2003, 6:35 AM
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In reply to: *Down with techy overpriced shoes!!* *Up with hard ass dirtbag climbers!!*
I prefer techy underpriced shoes. :wink: Madrock rules. :D
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redpiton
Nov 24, 2003, 6:43 AM
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Madrock is a disease! ah!!
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tenn_dawg
Nov 24, 2003, 7:01 AM
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In reply to: Hummm... shoes don't make the climbs any easier you say? So back in the early days of REAL dirtbag climbers when sticky rubber was first invented...climbing didn't progress amazingly fast? Do you think people would be sending v10+ climbs with your old stinky shoes? Shoes do help. Granted, its human nature to pass off an excuse for not being able to do something, but the physical shoe with edges and sticky rubber... it helps. If anything it doesn't make you a better climber, but it makes certain moves and climbs easier. I do find your topic to be entertaining though! I hope you don't become the cat in your signature picture.
Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my first post.
I'm not saying that having climbing shoes dosen't help you climb better. That statement is undoubtably false.
The difference between a $90 pair of used shoes, and a $180 pair of super techy ultra shoes that some big name boulderer wears...Is completely insignificant.
And all discussions of the subtle differences between shoes (that this site's forums are plagued by) are totally silly.
You might as well be talking about different kinds of prom dresses, for all the difference it's going to make in your climbing.
Reach up, pull down, repeat... Hahah
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nagatana
Nov 24, 2003, 7:09 AM
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Don't you have a sorority function to tend to? :wink:
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collegekid
Nov 24, 2003, 7:21 AM
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T5.
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styndall
Nov 24, 2003, 7:25 AM
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What the crap?
Can no one ask a damned question without it being called a troll nowadays?
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philbox
Moderator
Nov 24, 2003, 7:32 AM
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Why use shoes at all, try climbing in your bare feet once in a while. You`ll be pleasantly surprised at how well you can do particuarly in cracks.
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robmcc
Nov 24, 2003, 7:38 AM
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In reply to: Can no one ask a damned question without it being called a troll nowadays?
T1. Put some effort into it!
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tenn_dawg
Nov 24, 2003, 7:43 AM
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Nagatana,
Shut up.
Collegekid,
I swear to god. This is not a freaking TROLL, it's an insult to all the people who babble on and on about something silly like shoes. Damnit!
LETS SET THIS STRAIGHT RIGHT NOW!!!1
Calling people trolls is lame and stupid. If they ARE a troll, you are just validating them, and giving them the attention they crave. If they are NOT a troll, then you look like a total Melvin, and I will make fun of you until you cry.
End the madness people, I propose that from now on, we ruthlessly chastise anyone who uses that damn "Tee rating" ever again.
Collegekid, you are a total Melvin. I want you to go and think about what you just did. You need a little quiet time.
Phil,
Word. You aussies get it. It must have something to do with your...err...'colorful' history and heritige.
*cracks knuckles* This thread might actually get something accomplished afterall.
Travis <--Troll hunters FEAR ME!!!
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nagatana
Nov 24, 2003, 7:44 AM
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Hey, my name's Melvin!
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tenn_dawg
Nov 24, 2003, 7:46 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Can no one ask a damned question without it being called a troll nowadays? T1. Put some effort into it!
...errrrrr....
I couldn't even finish my rant before ANOTHER person chimes in with the troll business!
Dude... dude... If this wasn't your 666th post, I'd be tempted to start calling you out, but as it is, I"m kind of scared of you. Post one more time, and then I'll get started.
:roll: :roll:
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robmcc
Nov 24, 2003, 7:57 AM
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In reply to: Dude... dude... If this wasn't your 666th post, I'd be tempted to start calling you out, but as it is, I"m kind of scared of you. Post one more time, and then I'll get started.
I'm disappointed in me, too.
I noticed I'd passed the magic 666 after making #668, so I had to go back and see what was 666th. I wasted it on *that*? Teasing somebody about complaining about trolls? Feh.
Anyway, I mostly agree with your premise, but not on cracks. Some shoes jam well, some hurt like crazy.
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karmaklimber
Nov 24, 2003, 8:15 AM
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:D
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spoon
Nov 24, 2003, 8:17 AM
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In reply to: Don't you have a sorority function to tend to? :wink:
Lay off him dude, he's probably all tired from that strenuous trip to the mall.
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karma274
Nov 24, 2003, 8:30 AM
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You'll never be able to climb well in poor fitting shoes.
That said, between a pair of shoes with shitty boreal rubber and a pair of madrocks or fivetens, the madrocks/tens will win every time.
Fit matters. And rubber matters.
Furthermore, I can think of 4 boulder problems right off that I couldn't do/really struggled on until I got a pair of anasazis. They suddenly got much easier and I guarantee it wasn't purely mental.
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nagatana
Nov 24, 2003, 8:40 AM
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True, spoon.
So Travis, which prAna shorts won't clash with my Mythos? 'Cause it ain't so much about the shoes, as the entire outfit, right?
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