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rockgecko


Nov 24, 2003, 4:11 PM
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best easy climbing in usa
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Am a new member and this is my first post so bare with me :)
I've been climbing a year, mainly indoors as i have no regular partner :(
I love to travel and want to come over to the usa to climb ( am in the uk ). Its such a huge place i don't know where to start. Where are the best places with a good range of grades to start looking at?


slavetogravity


Nov 24, 2003, 4:33 PM
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Where’s a good place to climb in the USA. Well, well, well. Where shall I begin? I suppose I should begin buy asking, what kind of climbing are you interested in? Sport? Trad? Multi pitch? Bouldering? Of all the places I’ve been that give you the greatest variety of all types of climbing. Red Rocks in Nevada is the best. If you’re looking for a easy place to hook up with other climbers I’d have to say Yosemite in California would be your best bet. Beyond that, when you’re going to be in US? If you plan of coming in the summer, you can forget about going to the South West as it will be stinking hot. Also at that time Yosemite is a zoo. If this is the case, come to British Columbia Canada. Squamish is the place to be. It’s got everything. You’re Money will last longer, the natives are supper cool, and they’ll be less culture shock as the Queen is still found on most of the currency.


jhump


Nov 24, 2003, 4:55 PM
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Best easy trad- Seneca Rocks. Lots of very interesting climbs under 5.6. Some are unreal in their postion, yet still only 5.easy.


rockgecko


Nov 25, 2003, 3:23 PM
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Am mostly interested in sport and bouldering as i don't have much experience with gear. I also thought it'd be easier not taking loads of gear travelling. Are you from Canada by chance and a native? Theres so many places i want to climb, anywhere is a possibility. I'm just trying to get an idea, and other peoples experinece is a good judge. Money, don't i just need a tent :) how do the grades work aswell?


slavetogravity


Nov 25, 2003, 3:36 PM
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Yup, I'm a Canadian and I'm definitely native. So you like bouldering eh'? Well then Squamish is definitely for you. Best dang bouldering to be found in North America during the summer. Sure there are better areas but they'll be either too hot or too busy. Since you're going to be in Canada and you like sport climbing, then I have to recomend Skaha. It's got the highest consentration of excelent quality moderate sport climbs found anywhere. Also down in Oregon is Smith Rocks, the US most famous sport climbing area. It's not to me missed. It's a bit too hot in the summer though, best in the spring or fall.


iltripp


Nov 25, 2003, 4:26 PM
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What are your transportation options gonna be when you get over there? Rent a car, busses and trains, etc? This will make a big difference about where you go. Also, if there's any non-climbing stuff you want to see, maybe you should pick a good climbing area near that stuff. For example, you want to go to the beach, see San Francisco, and go climbing, so get a ticket to California and get up to Yosemite for your climbing.

The reason I mention this is that a lot of Europeans don't realize how big the United States is (no insult to Europeans, but I've noticed this a lot). Our public transportation system isn't always as good as in Europe and there's a lot of ground to cover. It all depends on how much time you have, but don't plan on being able to go everywhere in a short time.


shortfatoldguy


Nov 25, 2003, 4:34 PM
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In reply to:
Our public transportation system isn't always as good as in Europe

Heh, heh. A Brit will recognize understatement when he sees it.

You'll need to rent a car. But, hey, gas is cheap at the center of the Empire. Hail Caesar, and long live the Pax Americana...

Regarding Smith, you can still climb in the summer, just get out early in the morning, carry a lot of water, and chase the shade. Not a lot of bouldering, though.


curt


Nov 25, 2003, 4:47 PM
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The best "easy climbing" in this country (by far) is at the Gunks in New York. Its not sport though so bring some gear--you won't be sorry you visited there. Many of the Gunks routes in the 5.3 to 5.7 range are simply unbelievable, with perfect rock and spectacular exposure.

Curt


atg200


Nov 25, 2003, 4:50 PM
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you are cheating yourself sticking to sport and bouldering - in the easy grades trad is where its at.

the black hills in south dakota have the nicest easy sport climbing i've seen. rushmore has nicely featured granite with sport routes as easy as 5.5 on aesthetic spires and fins. if you sack up you can go have fun at devils tower and the needles as well. the bouldering at old baldy at rushmore is superb, and the rock maze near rapid city is quite good too.

do try to get to the gunks as well, even if you have to hire a guide. gear protected 5.2 overhands, or sizeable 5.6 roofs. very cool stuff, and definitely the most enjoyable moderate climbing i have ever seen anywhere. seneca is similar and very good as well, though there are fewer good climbs and those that exist get more crowded.

yosemite has very few easy routes and no easy sport routes that i can think of. not a great beginner place, but also not a place to be missed.


rockgecko


Nov 26, 2003, 5:59 AM
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Your right, theres just soooo many places. I'm bad enough at making decisions as it is. Guess i need to study each place. Going to drive and the time scales not a problem ( not decided yet :) maybe a month, 6, even a year. I see what you say about easy routes and sports. Is rock city any good? and does anyone know what 5.5 is in French grades?


gregtrammell


Nov 26, 2003, 6:55 AM
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hey,

i do a lot of climbing down here in Tennessee, Georgia, and Northeast Alabama. There are lots of great sport routes and bouldering. I am always willing to meet new people to climb with, and even if you can't find anyone, there are always people out at the cliffs willing to let you take a ride up on there rope.
You might want to check out the Foster Falls, Rocktown, Horse Pens 40, and Sandrock sites here on RC.com, just to name a few.
If ya got any questions feel free to drop me a line.


coclimber26


Nov 26, 2003, 7:04 AM
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You should consider the Flatirons in Boulder, Colorado. The average climb is 5-10 pitches of 5.4 to 5.7. You also have Eldorado canyon and Boulder canyon right around the corner.....check it out.


rockgecko


Nov 26, 2003, 10:21 AM
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Now I just don't know where to begin, didn't realize there was sooooo many brilliant places, but then i guess your all biased anyway. Unfortunatly when you say 5.5 etc. i can't relate it to what i climb because am unfamiliar with your grading, can any help? asked before but it seems no one could :)


atg200


Nov 26, 2003, 10:24 AM
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here is a grade conversion chart:

http://www.saclimb.co.za/codes.html


fredo


Nov 26, 2003, 2:34 PM
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This is a regional bias, but I think you could spend a lot of time at both Smith and the City of Rocks (ID). In your travels across the NW you could hit spots in Washington, ID and MT. Those 3 states do not have the big climber draw as other places do, but the locals are friendly and the climbing awesome... anyway if you roll through Missoula, look me up we'll get out


petsfed


Nov 26, 2003, 4:19 PM
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In reply to:
You should consider the Flatirons in Boulder, Colorado. The average climb is 5-10 pitches of 5.4 to 5.7. You also have Eldorado canyon and Boulder canyon right around the corner.....check it out.

I have to disagree. While yes, the climbs are technically easy, 600 feet up a featureless slab with no possiblity of retreat is kind of poor place to learn the finer points of gear placement.

My vote goes for St. George, UT. Tons of good sport of all difficulties, good weather, good free camping. Fly into Las Vegas and you're golden. Hit Prophecy wall for long 5.6-5.10 (and harder), Chuckwalla for the afternoon cragging vibe, or drive a bit for some sick hard limestone climbing.


rockgecko


Nov 28, 2003, 8:06 AM
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Thanks everyone for your response, didn't think i'd get any. I've got a much better idea now, even when people don't agree on a place, it's better getting lots of opinions than refering to a text book. experience is everything :)


dynamicpanda


Nov 29, 2003, 8:22 PM
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I second the suggestion of going to squamish in the summer. All the US areas will be to hot or bug-infested. Squamish is a cool little town with lots of rock within walking distance of the campground. The summer is the best time to head there.

The only other place I can offer you info on is the southeast. Fall/Early winter and Late Winter/Early Spring are the best times to head there. STAY OUT OF THE SOUTHEAST DURING THE SUMMER, it can get incredibly humid. The areas in the southeast that you would want to visit are horsepens 40 AL, Boone NC, New River Gorge WV, Red River Gorge KN, Rocktown GA, and im sure there are tons of good areas in Tennessee (although I have never been to one).


rockgecko


Dec 1, 2003, 7:41 AM
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Getting a real good feel for the best places now, thanks. Sounds like Squamish is the place to be in summer, still too many places to choose for other times. looks like i might have to come over for longer.


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