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Big Wall Shoes
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bergo


Nov 25, 2003, 1:34 PM
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Big Wall Shoes
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Since rockclimbr started a topic on trad shoes... Hey to all the big wall junkies...what shoes do you wear/prefer?


iamthewallress


Nov 25, 2003, 1:42 PM
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Re: Big Wall Shoes [In reply to]
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Something with sticky rubber with the entire upper pretty much bathed in Seam Grip.


epic_ed


Nov 25, 2003, 1:54 PM
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up2top moved this thread [In reply to]
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up2top moved this thread from Gear Heads to Aid Climbing.


flamer


Nov 25, 2003, 1:58 PM
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Re: Big Wall Shoes [In reply to]
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My answer: IT DEPENDS!!
If I'm going for the light, fast, wall-in-a-day kind'a thing I wear A pair of Boreal Ace's 1/2 size big with socks(and resoled with stealth rubber). I also have the rands modified- I have them put extra thick rubber on.
If I'm in normal wall mode I use a Pair of La Spotive Baltoro's- Which work ok. They are comfy when standing in aiders but are alittle on the bulky side.
josh


pete_the_eskimo


Nov 25, 2003, 1:59 PM
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http://images.viewimages.com/wm/258006_wm.jpg


epic_ed


Nov 25, 2003, 2:06 PM
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I have tried a variety of stuff and until recently have been focused on all day foot comfort. Generally, I've been wearing big, clunky, beefy backpacking boots. Great foot support for standing in aiders all day, but forget about trying to make any free climbing moves. On previous walls, I've intentionally avoided routes that have a lot of mixed free/aid or mandatory free sections. Swapping out into climbing shoes takes way too much time and effort, and climbing an entire pitch in climbing shoes kills the feet -- not to mention shreds the climbing shoes.

This strategy just isn't feasible for me any longer. I got spanked on Moonlight Buttress last month because of some brief, easy mixed free climbing that I couldn't do in boots. I've decided to entirely change my approach to footwear on a wall. My current project is to take an older pair of my 5.10 Hueco's which are 1/2 size too big for me, drop in a 1/2 sole foot bed from Superfeet for support through the arch area, and apply as much shoe-goo at the rand and toe box area as is possible.

That's my untested, unproven method. I'll get back with you when I have some indication of how it's going to work out.

Ed


jliebgott


Nov 26, 2003, 8:32 AM
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Re: Big Wall Shoes [In reply to]
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I tried seam gripping my approach shoes. It didn't work at all. Basically, I just ended up with a nasty mess.


glockaroo


Nov 26, 2003, 8:39 AM
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Garmont "Sticky Twists" work very well. IIRC Sportiva has some similar offerings.

http://gusa.site.yahoo.net/g1081202-browse.html

http://store4.yimg.com/I/gusa_1762_12694984


crotch


Nov 26, 2003, 11:29 AM
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I use Kaukulator Drus that are comfy with socks resoled with stealth.


the_alpine


Nov 26, 2003, 12:05 PM
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The now discontinued La Sportiva Hypers are the bomb!


bsmoot


Nov 26, 2003, 6:05 PM
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I climb in Mescalito's. They are a very stiff boot and I love them for that. They are so much more comfortable than what I used to wear. Walls are uncomfortable enough! If the wall has a lot of free on it I climb in a loose fitting all-around rock shoe.


jello


Nov 26, 2003, 7:20 PM
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Those Garmont sticky twists look like a good wall shoe.
Looks like a nice rand across the toe where mine like to fall apart.


sto


Nov 27, 2003, 9:56 AM
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I've used the Garmont Sticky Twist as my primary non-work shoe for over a year. I did the Salathe Wall in them in May and the Grand Teton in them in August as well as lots of hiking. The rand is peeling a very small amount on one shoe but otherwise they are almost as good as new. They got totally soaked through on the Jungle pitch too. I would highly recommend them as a durable wall shoe. They are pretty stiff so not terrific at smearing but they climb well enough up to say 5.5/5.6. These plus a pair of slippers would be a good wall combo.

(Garmont you can use me as a testimonial if you keep me in these great shoes!)


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