Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Absorbent and adjustable anchors
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


nickb


Nov 30, 2003, 9:39 PM
Post #1 of 6 (1745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 72

Absorbent and adjustable anchors
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have an idea for an adjustable shock absorbent anchor system.
I have not tested this and Iím sure it has some issues. But, I thought I would toss it out to web world and take the flaming like a man.

Essentially I thought an anchor could be tied together with two Kong KISA shock absorbers on 9 mm cord. The KISA is a reloadable, thus adjustable length shock absorber device. It is used to absorb static falls on via ferrata and also can be used as a shock absorber on pro. Why not use two of them on separate cords to equalize an anchor? As the anchor is loaded it doesn't matter if the direction of the pull changes the two anchor cords would equalize and absorb the force. KISAís only weighs 62g. so itís about the weight of a biner. I would think 9 mm cord should be strong enough when used in pairs and you would only need about 6-7 ft of cord per arm of the anchor, 3 ft to slide and 4 ft to connect to the power point. It shouldnít be much more trouble than the standard cordellete. I see this kind of thing being used on trad anchors where it might save our sorry behinds from the big plunge. What do you think.

Check out these URLís : http://www.kong.it/doc408.htm
http://www.kong.it/doc407.htm


ryanhos


Nov 30, 2003, 11:23 PM
Post #2 of 6 (1745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 132

Re: Absorbent and adjustable anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not to be a parrot, but you're breaking 2 rules of SRENE.

Equalized. It's only equalized till you fall. After that, who knows how it will be loaded. Furthremore, what happens when one KISA stops at the knot and the other has a couple inches of travel left? Now you're just hanging on one piece. Your complicated, bomber, 2-piece anchor just became a simple, manky, 1-piece anchor.

No Extension. This rule is in place to ensure that if one piece blows, the others aren't shock loaded. Since the KISA is a shock load limiter, this probably isn't much of a concern. However, the extension could have other consequences. At a hanging belay, imagine the power point dropping 3 feet suddenly during a fall. Do you really want your belayer falling 3 feet while trying to catch you?

Lastly, if I read your post correctly, I believe you're speaking of belay anchors and not just running pieces. People generally aren't taking huge whippers on belay anchors. They're top roping. There is no need for shock absorbers.

On top of it all, 2 KISAs in parallel double the "breaking strength." You'd need weaker shock absorbers.


adeptus


Dec 1, 2003, 3:04 AM
Post #3 of 6 (1745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322

Re: Absorbent and adjustable anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have been using the Petzl Zyper, attached to the bottom anchor, for rope soloing trad and aid. In theory it should work, but I haven't tested it by falling.
I think it's a good idea that might save the anchor from getting shock loaded.


Partner philbox
Moderator

Dec 1, 2003, 1:42 PM
Post #4 of 6 (1745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2002
Posts: 13105

Re: Absorbent and adjustable anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I like your thinking, I just dunno about the execution though. I reckon a better set up would be to simply build a standard serene anchor and then introduce the Kong Kisa into it so that you are hanging off the Kisa and belaying off yourself. The leader then selects the most bomber piece of the anchor to clip another Kisa into and then clips the lead rope to that. I think that you should be using 10.2mm rope through the Kisas too. I reckon that 9mm is too small.

I`m starting to use Kong Kisas more and more, they are great pieces of kit. I would like to play with them more as screamers on marginal pieces.


mtnbkrxtrordnair


Dec 2, 2003, 2:18 PM
Post #5 of 6 (1745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 267

Re: Absorbent and adjustable anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you want a truly absorbent anchor-try Depends :P

edited to add: and they're adjusable too, with the little velcro strips on the sides :o


nickb


Dec 3, 2003, 9:45 PM
Post #6 of 6 (1745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 72

Re: Absorbent and adjustable anchors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
If you want a truly absorbent anchor-try Depends :P

edited to add: and they're adjusable too, with the little velcro strips on the sides :o

I assume you have tested this.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook