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Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs
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diodesanddihedrals


Dec 3, 2003, 3:03 PM
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Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs
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I've been looking through your "index" and couldn't find anything about THE BETTER WAY of setting up wall belays and overnight bivies. The rest of your posts have been pretty helpful so it looks like you're the one to talk to.


epic_ed


Dec 3, 2003, 3:22 PM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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This post is helpful:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=12606&forum=19

I found it in his "index" toward the bottom of the first page in the aid forum. It's quite a lot of blather and self promotion, but it's quicker and easier than using the search feature.

And as for "Ask Dr. Piton", please feel free to just ask aid forum members in general. We're all helpful and will be happy to share whatever we know. If you'd like to contact Pete directly, please email him.

Thanks,

Ed


diodesanddihedrals


Dec 3, 2003, 3:55 PM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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Yep, that's what I was looking for, thanks.

PTPP wrote:
In reply to:
From left to right you want:

your ledge
your Power Point and pig
your partner's Power Point and pig
your partner's ledge

Is this pretty common, what are some other biv set ups for other
situations.

-Nath


copperhead


Dec 6, 2003, 6:34 PM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
From left to right you want:

your ledge
your Power Point and pig
your partner's Power Point and pig
your partner's ledge

Is this pretty common, what are some other biv set ups for other
situations.

-Nath


Depends of if you use power-points or not. Also depends on the belay, the shape of the rock, etc. It varies.

Belays aren't always designed for convenience; sometimes you will have to stack the portaledges. A wider belay definitely makes things easier. Sometimes, you can find an odd placement off to one side of the belay, be it a head-seam or a thin nailing crack. Equalize a couple of pieces (once you agro-bounce-test each of them individually) and then hang your ledge from the equalization point; hooks work too. Always keep the belay tied together and provide backups for your Ďoff-to-the-sideí placements. These placements do not include those made by a drillÖ Itís nice to have each personís haulbag accessible from their ledge but that isnít always possible. A few hanging bivies and youíll figure it out. There is an art to it and with a well-thought plan, you can have things pretty dialed. You will develop systems and patterns that work for you. Think of it as a fun puzzle and use your creativity. There is no absolute right or wrong (though we do have our preferences). Pictures are good but there is no substitute for experience. Do whatever works and have fun figuring it out.




http://www.supertopo.com/...ort_holling_law6.jpg
Here is a wide belay setup. I realized on my first two walls that one double ledge for two people ainít right. Apparently, I had no say in the matter on this one. Never again. I canít sleep in a sardine can. You gotta have your own ledge.



http://www.supertopo.com/...elnose_boot_law7.jpg
Here is another super-wide belay setup. Notice the use of old daisies for gear organization between bolts. To bivy, a ledge could be placed at opposite ends of the belay. The haulbag on the right would simply be lowered to a point that would clear a portaledge.



http://www.supertopo.com/...blostbroth_law11.jpg
This one shows a simple but convenient solo bivy setup.


diodesanddihedrals


Dec 6, 2003, 9:32 PM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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Hey thanks, great pics too


strider


Dec 6, 2003, 10:58 PM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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Hey Copperhead, on the last picture of the solo belay, what does the sign duct-taped to the wall above the anchor say? Cool pics, thanks

-n


copperhead


Dec 7, 2003, 12:45 AM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Hey Copperhead, on the last picture of the solo belay, what does the sign duct-taped to the wall above the anchor say? Cool pics, thanks

-n


Thanks!

It says:

"The House of Bryan"

Because it's one of the only places that I can get some peace and quiet on this twisted planet...

A place to call home where no one will bother me.


junnos


Dec 8, 2003, 1:00 PM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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Hey Copperhead,
Quick question. How do you feel about setting up the old ledge on a single bolt?


ricardol


Dec 8, 2003, 1:13 PM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Hey Copperhead,
Quick question. How do you feel about setting up the old ledge on a single bolt?

i believe lots of people do this .. back it up to the master point on an anchor ..

-- ricardo


iamthewallress


Dec 8, 2003, 2:32 PM
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Something that I haven't seen mentioned which is often the case for me, but probably rarely the case for those that prefer overhanging A4... On natural ledges I try to build two anchors (much of the time there will be spread out bolts for this purpose) and run a "zip line" (the leadline attached horizontally) between them. Attach yourself to the zip w/ 2 daisies or slings on lockers. Now you're attached and can walk around. If possible you'll want to set this up so that you have a good place to go pee (off route and off the ledge) in the night. You can hang your stuff from the zip too, but it will get in your way as walk around. I like to string up one of my aiders horizontally and organize my ditty sacks on that.


flamer


Dec 8, 2003, 4:51 PM
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Re: Ask Dr. Piton...Setting up Big Wall Belays and Bivs [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Hey Copperhead,
Quick question. How do you feel about setting up the old ledge on a single bolt?

i believe lots of people do this .. back it up to the master point on an anchor ..

-- ricardo

No need to back it up to the "main anchor".
Just stay tied in...I believe you'll notice that copperhead suggested using equalized heads to hang your ledge from.
The only thing about doing this is(see above) STAY TIED IN!! But you all know that right??
josh


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