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tricks of the trade
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wetyeti


Dec 3, 2003, 9:31 PM
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tricks of the trade
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does tricks of teh trade in zion go clean? what can i expect to bring. i was figuring a shit load of cams.


mikeinidaho


Dec 4, 2003, 9:08 AM
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There is one pitch that the guide book says requires a hammer and pins. pitch 12. My guide book (Bjornstad) sez: "A2+ One Beak, One Long Blade."

That said. It has the potential, like many Zion/sandstone routes, to go hammerless. I was on that pitch, and I really can't remember any good beta. (I do recall something about bailing?)

I have no knowledge if this has gone clean, but armed with enough thin clean gear - it might. If the placements are beaten out enough, placing a couple of pins by hand counts as clean!

And --- Yes, take Sh*t load of cams for all the free stuff. The crack systems are bit on the big side. Pitch 12 will require lotsa tiny stuff. Double set of HB-OffSets and micro cams. Be carefull topping out, I've heard the "4th Class" finis is a horor show of loose shwag.

(Really wanna know? ask Brian Bird)

have a nice day...
M!


jcinco


Dec 4, 2003, 9:28 AM
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Apparently it goes clean with slider nuts and cam hooks at C2+, though I personally wouldn't really call cam hooks, "clean" aid in Zion sandstone. Check out:

http://www.climbingmoab.com/...ramp___tricks__.html


bandycoot


Dec 4, 2003, 11:00 AM
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I have a book that recommends triple set of cam small to #5 camalot!!! :shock:


bandycoot


Dec 4, 2003, 12:49 PM
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haha

typical rc.com. people who are a$$holes.

haH.

At least I was ontopic. No one had said anything about that yet and the information was from John Middendorf who did the first ascent you pompus fool. Get a life.


maculated


Dec 4, 2003, 2:41 PM
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Don't go there kids, or I'll have to lock the thread and warn you. You don't want me to warn you. Play nice.


climbhigher


Dec 4, 2003, 3:27 PM
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If i was going to go send Tricks of the Trade in a day (sunrise to sunset) which i might in Febuary. This is what i would bring keeping this in mind- i will run it out 40+ feet in solid finger and hand to cuped hand size cracks up to 5.11. And I am weak in big fingers and tight hand size cracks (I have small hands and small fingers) plus, you really should not be falling out of hand cracks if you plan on freeing Tricks of the Trade. 2-blue aliens 2-green aliens 3-red aliens 2-orange aliens 1-11/2 friend 2-#2 friends 1-#21/2 freind 1-#3 friend 2-#31/2 friend and 1-#4 camalot. and a set of offset nuts. If offwiths scare maybe bring an additional #5 camalot. So that's 17 cams which adds up to a pretty big rack. If you are speaking Camalot. i would bring 2 reds 1 yellow and 2 blues and the same amount of aliens. Less cams but the same weight. If this rack is to small, go practice desert crack climbing more or bring more cams and plan on doing some aiding. CHEERS.


climbhigher


Dec 4, 2003, 3:30 PM
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Oh yeah, I am pretty confident tricks of the trade will not only go clean but will also go free. .11+, .12?????


wetyeti


Dec 9, 2003, 9:02 PM
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not planning on freeing it, just going clean. more practice. weather beta in march? anyone gonna be out there?


lambone


Dec 11, 2003, 11:42 PM
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a friend of mine tried it...he said the approach chimneys were way hard, scary, and run-out...

and he is a well verse chimney/off-width climber.

have fun!


bigdan


Dec 18, 2003, 2:02 PM
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In reply to:
Oh yeah, I am pretty confident tricks of the trade will not only go clean but will also go free. .11+, .12?????

I don't know about that, maybe. There's only one aid pitch to begin with, which would definitely go free except for about a 20 foot stretch, where I placed several brassies consecutively. Maybe.

In any case, it does go clean, with sliders and patience. Rocco Vartanian first led it clean at C2+ in May of '02. Even before that, it only needed one or two pins.

Here's a pic of me leading that pitch...
http://www.coloradospringsclimbing.com/.../tricks/tricks13.jpg

...and a pic I took looking down that pitch...
http://www.coloradospringsclimbing.com/.../tricks/tricks14.jpg

And here's a link to the trip report I wrote up about it...

http://www.coloradospringsclimbing.com/...ricksofthetrade.html

We bailed after the aid pitch because we ran out of time after sleeping in too late, but it has a decent description of everything to that point. Tricks is a gorgeous route, with some of the best pitches of my life. Certainly, the chimneys are some of the coolest around.


gawd


Dec 18, 2003, 2:32 PM
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the route when clean befroe may of '02

dave bloom has done the route several times clean before may of '02 when establishing his route "iron, lion, zion" which is a superior route.

gear you will need are some slider nuts and two hand placed pins as well as a cam hook, offsets make it easier as well. the rock is not stellar here, unlike the rest of the crack system.

the aiding is quite trivial when compared to the rest of the route. i would consider this route an alpine route and not a big wall climb.

water will be problimatic on the descent. tho dave expressed to me that desecding the route is safer and much quicker. i found the descent to be very time consuming and difficult.

there is some route findinf during the last few pitches, but from what i hear is that all options will work, but they vary in difficulty. we traveresed right(north-northeast) and worked up thru some chimenys to the top of the route.

in may you might have to consider nesting raptor clsosure. you must check with the ranger station about this.

this is an excellent route for some adventure.


bigdan


Dec 18, 2003, 2:57 PM
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In reply to:
gear you will need are some slider nuts and two hand placed pins as well as a cam hook, offsets make it easier as well.

Even the hand-placed pins are unneccesary I think. I had all nuts in that section except for my two barely-tapped pins, which will accomodate sliders for sure. Sliders, nuts, and cams will do fine.

Where does Iron, Lion, Zion go?


diesel___smoke


Dec 18, 2003, 8:09 PM
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Is this a renaming of Tricks of the Tramp?


bigdan


Dec 18, 2003, 11:50 PM
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No. Middendorf originally floated the idea of Tramp, but ultimately decided to go with Trade. The two have been confused ever since, but Tricks of the Trade is the official name.


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