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getdownfromthere
Dec 7, 2003, 10:23 PM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
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Any advice about what routes at J-Tree to try when:
I've done only one lead climb (which I led) rated at 5.6 (and this was an outdoor sport climb)
I have an indoor toprope ability of 5.8-5.9 (did one 5.10a)
I'll be there in January with a friend who has a bit more experience than me. We'd like to do some toproping, bouldering and intro lead-climbing.
Thanks!
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trenchdigger
Dec 8, 2003, 12:56 AM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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Does your friend have a rope, trad rack, and/or experience building anchors (from bolts and/or trad anchors)? That will help people figure out what you can do or might need.
Also do a quick search for the same subject in the forums search to find a few recent threads from people in a similar situation as you. Here's one that came to mind http://rockclimbing.com/...ighlight=indian+cove.
~Adam~
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getdownfromthere
Dec 8, 2003, 1:34 AM
Post #3 of 7
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
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My friend isn't equipped for Trad climbing, but has a minor assortment of rope and carabiners that we've used for outdoor toproping. So Trad would be out. We can get quickdraws for sports climbs if needed.
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kilgymrats
Dec 8, 2003, 2:03 AM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
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Well, if your going to JT and you've never been there before I would recommend you stay in Hidden Valley Camp Ground. There is a TON of good bouldering just out of the back of the campground. (Be sure to check out the hobbit hole..it's kind of cool..ask some locals about it) Anyway, you can climb right there in the camp site so you don't have to drive anywhere, which is nice. There are a few places to set up a TR, but most of the places require at lest some leading to get to the top of the rocks. If you're looking for some easy sport routes to lead I would suggest going to Echo Rock. It's slab..and sometimes a bit runout, so if your not real comfortable on lead you might want to think twice. But it's all good. And it's bolted for ya'. (Check out Stitcher Quits 5.7, and The Flake 5.6..both are good routes) There is another bolted route opposite of Echo Rock...it's not named, but it's between The Ashtray and Jughead on Echo Cove Formations-East.(p.240 in the JT Falcon guide) IT'S Super easy and real well protected, would be a real nice place to get comfortable leading sport outdoor. Anyway, hope you have fun! I'm jealous! Hit me back if you need more info!
Enjoy!
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rjtrials
Dec 8, 2003, 2:13 AM
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Registered: Sep 7, 2002
Posts: 342
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PM me when you guys get here. I would be more than happy to show you around and do some cool climbs and/or problems.
RJ
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cruzinsouthoc
Dec 8, 2003, 3:02 AM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Dec 15, 2001
Posts: 84
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Don't forget long slings/cordelettes. Most of the pro you'll need will be medium-large hexes/cams and the larger size stoppers (nuts). I don't own any cams but have a full set of hexes/stoppers and am usually fine.
Check out Trashcan Rock (Quail Springs) for some easy stuff and then go out to the Real Hidden valley and check out Thin Wall. Echo has a few spots that are relatively easy to Toprope too. Just gotta remember that you're likely to setup a top rope a ways back from the route so be prepared to extend your anchor out a bit. If you got a crash pad just drive around in your flip flops with shoes/chalk bag close at hand, you can occupy a whole weekend just bouldering without ever setting up a top rope.
Check out http://www.climbingjtree.com/
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guyzo
Dec 12, 2003, 7:45 AM
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Registered: Feb 27, 2003
Posts: 37
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Go do "The Right Ski Track" on Intersection Rock, starting from the ramp from the right side. 5.5 **** climb. Do "Cyclops Eye" 5.6****. "Head Stone Rock, Left side" 5.7**** . That B a good day for you. :lol: :lol: :D
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