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a3webhog
Dec 11, 2003, 5:15 PM
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Hi-
My friends and I are planning a JTree trip and I was wondering if someone could suggest some beginner multi-pitch routes out there. I'm currently leading trad at the 5.7-5.8 range.
Thanks
- webhog
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outdoormikeg
Dec 11, 2003, 5:30 PM
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Sail away would be a good one pitch route...you can pretty much throw a set of nuts at the crack and they'll go in...
There isn't a ton of multi pitch in JTree but one that I do rememeber is a climb on Lost Horse Wall but I can't rememeber the name...look in the guide book and you should be able to find it...I think it's called Dappled Mare or something like that...just beware...when you leave the first belay you have to make a right turn over an arete or you'll end up in a situation where you'll have to do some improptu aiding...
Go into the gear shop that is at the entrace to the park and ask them...they'll be able to steer you in the right direction...
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alpnclmbr1
Dec 11, 2003, 5:33 PM
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by far the best easy multi pitch would be
The Swift 5.7, lost horse ranger station wall
just be clear on where you need to head right on the last pitch (crux)
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elgecko
Dec 11, 2003, 5:54 PM
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Right On (5.5) on Saddle Rocks is a great route, it can be done in 3-4 pitches
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elgecko
Dec 11, 2003, 6:00 PM
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Fote Hog (5.6) on The Sentinel, 2 pitches
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dogertom
Dec 11, 2003, 6:20 PM
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Mike's books, 2 pitch, 5.6 classic
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outdoormikeg
Dec 11, 2003, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: by far the best easy multi pitch would be The Swift 5.7, lost horse ranger station wall just be clear on where you need to head right on the last pitch (crux)
Yep that's the one on Lost Horse wall that I was thinking of...we didn't make the right turn and ended up doing some impomtu aid to get off the thing...
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a3webhog
Dec 11, 2003, 10:03 PM
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Thanks guys, this helps a lot.
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rizzuh
Dec 11, 2003, 10:26 PM
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I was in the same boat a few years back... and I really liked "tranquility" (5.6) on moosedog tower/ indian cove... 3 pitches It was my first multi pitch and I had a blast.
rock on,
nic
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scotto
Dec 11, 2003, 10:51 PM
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This might be a silly question but what sort of gear is needed for these climbs? Are there rap rings at the top and anchors at each of the pitches? i have passive gear and plenty of slings/ropes and biners but no cams yet - can i do any of these climbs??
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bishopclimber
Dec 11, 2003, 10:56 PM
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Moosedog Tower and Intersection Rock have rap stations.
Lost Horse Wall has a walkoff.
Sentinel Rock(Fote Hog) has a walkoff.
Remember that most of these routes were fa'd with passive gear(pre cam era)
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epic_ed
Dec 11, 2003, 10:59 PM
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Each formation is different, but in general, at JTree if the route has any sort of 3rd or 4th class walk-off (sometimes 5th class) there is no rap station. Expect to down climb a lot. I've only climbed one of the routes above, but wouldn't want to have lead it without cams. Fortunately, many climbs in JTree (obviously not many of the multi-pitch) have a scramble up from another side (frequently it's the way down, too) and can be top roped if you don't have the gear or cajones to lead it with just... well...cajones.
Ed
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dogertom
Dec 11, 2003, 11:18 PM
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Mikes Books, has reppel anchors. It will climb with all passive pro, you will need a set of hexs a few large pices 10 and 11.
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scotto
Dec 11, 2003, 11:34 PM
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This might be a silly question but what sort of gear is needed for these climbs? Are there rap rings at the top and anchors at each of the pitches? i have passive gear and plenty of slings/ropes and biners but no cams yet - can i do any of these climbs??
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