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stormannorman
Dec 12, 2003, 6:54 PM
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Not been to Utah before and I am planning a mountain bike and rock climbing trip. I know where the biking is but where is the climbing? I am looking for tall multi-pitch stuff and some sport routes.
How far would I have to drive from Moab to get to some good places?
What are the temperatures like in March in Southern Utah?
Thanks
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climbs4fun
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Dec 12, 2003, 8:42 PM
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climbs4fun moved this thread from General to US - Mountain States.
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pt
Dec 13, 2003, 3:35 PM
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Weather should be nice that time of year. For sport climbing the best option is probably Wall Street which is right on the Potash road about 10 minutes from Moab. Further up the Potash Road you can also try Long Canyon and Day Canyon for splitter cracks. Maverick buttress at the top of Long Canyon has a very short approach and has amazing views of the Lasal mountains with canyons and rock fins in the foreground. These areas are only 20-30 minute drives out of Moab. For multi-pitch you should head to Castle Valley and do any number of climbs on Castleton, The Rectory or Sister Superior. And, of course, you have to go to Indian Creek which is about an hour from Moab.
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lexmark
Dec 13, 2003, 5:28 PM
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I hit Utah for Spring Break last year (2nd week March). A big front had just moved through and dumped snow in the Wasatch and huge amounts in the Rockies. Moab was still beautiful with 60 degree days. (Joe's Valley was the coldest place on earth at the time)
I don't bike, but that's your best bet. Moab doesn't have much early spring time sport climbing. Big Bend bouldering provides a few days a fun, though.
For good weather and sport climbing I would drive to St. George and hit Red Rocks. Have fun.
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wlderdude
Dec 27, 2003, 4:56 PM
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Temperatures in March will be highly variable. Bring your shorts, your winter coat and a rain coat. Spring is the closest thing Utah has to a rainy season. Although, it only seems to rain on the weekends.
Whatever you do, do not climbon wet sandstone. It becomes more sand than stone, which is not good for you and especially not good for anyone who tries to climb the route after you.
You will find tons of good climbs within a half hour deive of less from Moab in any decent climbing book that covers Moab. There is a book on the whole state that has almost half the book dedicated to the Moab area. This is a good choice if Moab is cold or wet and you decide to try St George.
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phyreman
Dec 27, 2003, 5:45 PM
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I'm heading to Moab sometime in April. I have never been west of ohio and I am looking to hook up with someone willing to show me some climbing. I'll be posting again in a month or two but when I saw this thread...
I'm going out there with a buddy and a jeep to do some trail 'rockclimbing' but the condition is that if I'm his spotter I get a climbing day. He isn't a climber so I either need topropable stuff (he can belay) or someone to meet up with (much prefered). I'm mostly looking for easy climbs in the 5.4-5.6 range. I've lead 3 pitch climbs in that range in the gunks but never in the type of rock I'm likely to encounter out in Utah. Any suggestions as to the best places to go near Moab?
Nate
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wlderdude
Jan 5, 2004, 11:24 PM
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You won't find much in the way of 5.4-5.6 in Moab. Toproing is hard to find, too. Wall Street is the only place I know of established top ropes.
Good Luck.
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rokklym
Jan 9, 2004, 11:47 PM
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I can't give you alot of beta for the climbing cuz i've only been to the Big Bend boulders, which are cool, but I can give you a little beta for the biking.
I'm sure you have a good idea of what you want to do there but I was out there in October and rode the new Sovereign Singletrack which is like 10 miles North of Moab and that trail was absolutely incredible...put it on your list. I have some maps and stuff if you need info. also, utahmountainbiking.com has excellent info and videos.
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