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alpinestylist
Nov 27, 2003, 3:36 PM
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any rumors, slander or beta for this?
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alpinestylist
Nov 27, 2003, 6:26 PM
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bump
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elcapbuzz
Nov 27, 2003, 9:56 PM
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Yeah, I've ran into the canyon and checked it out. The route looks good. It used to, maybe sitll does.... have quite the reputation of being sick. Put up by John Middendorf and the late Xaver Bongard in the 90's.
I heard there was a second ascent by a guy from Salt Lake. I think I remember hearing that his ascent was invalid for some reason. I don't know.... I think he didn't do the last pitch or something (like it matters). Not sure, how accurate the info was, either.
You can find a topo here: http://bigwall.com/radiator.html (for those who didn't know)
What else..... I know the route was pretty futuristic and was put up in proud style over four days (10 lead bolts and seven protection). Brian McCray and Burt Arend went in to climb the route and climbed a first ascent of Stigmata instead.
Ok, with all that said..... Anyone up for a speed ascent of Stigmata?
Cheers, Ammon
(it's only 15 pitches.... only as tall as the Zodiac.. haa haa-right!)
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elcapbuzz
Nov 28, 2003, 8:40 PM
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Whhhooops!! I meant "Anyone up for a speed ascent of Radiator"..... not Stigmata.
Cheers, Ammon
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elcapbuzz
Nov 28, 2003, 8:43 PM
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Brent? Are you interested..........
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joe
Nov 28, 2003, 9:55 PM
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ammon, i'm unemployed now so give me a ring for all your speed climbing needs, brotha! i'd probably be a full on jug monkey for radiator but i don't care as long as we're SENDING!
8012012330
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moabbeth
Nov 28, 2003, 11:14 PM
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Nice phone number posting jojo!! Watch out or you'll get some cyberstalkers seeing it and calling you and talking dirty. :lol:
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bsmoot
Nov 29, 2003, 5:28 AM
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Here is an extract from the 1991 AAJ report of John Middendorf & Walt Shipley's ascent:
"We chose unclimbed Abraham by a natural overhanging crack system up the center of its southeast buttress. The total height is great than Half Dome's northwest face. We planned for four days and brought the usual large quantity of aid gear, including hooks, pitons and several sets of camming devices, portaledges, two haulbags and a bolt kit consisting of 50 bolts. We climbed the first crack system to the right of a central gully descending from the buttress and followed cracks for three pitches. We traversed left through a dark band to a tree at the base of an off-width crack. We followed the corner system for several pitches and then traversed right to the right-facing corners leading to the top of the buttress. The climbing was consistently difficult for these 15 pitches with some very exposed free-climbing and much overhanging knifeblade-crack nailing. From the top of the buttress, we soloed moderate terrain for several hundred feet to the top of Abraham. On the descent, from the top of the buttress, we traversed right several hundred yards on a ledge system to the edge of a major drainage. Eleven rappels (some with marginal anchors) led to the top of a hanging waterall and three more to the ground. Five days were required for the ascent and descent. We used only 17 bolts, ten for belays and seven for aid. We named it the "Radiator" because of the radiant nature of Abraham's flawless sandstone. (VI,5.10, A4)
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climbhigher
Nov 30, 2003, 9:06 PM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
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Hey Ammon, I will be in Indian Creek until January once i get my tooth fixed here in Boulder, OUCH!!! E-mail me if you need a partner in Zion. I am ready to go!!!!
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diesel___smoke
Dec 15, 2003, 6:05 AM
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Solely based upon the reputation of the two who put up the route, Bongard and Middendorf, I'd bet if they rated it A4 it will be pretty damn stout. The late, great Xaver had a reputation of preferring to solo only the hardest big walls and Middendorf has a list of FAs to his name. These two created a perfect team, demonstrating that on their Yosemite-Style FA on the Trango Tower, pushing the grades of what is even possible. I'd give special consideration to their ratings over some others. Undeniably two prolific wall climbers...
Just my opinion...
Jp
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bsmoot
Dec 16, 2003, 1:28 AM
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Yes, Xavier Bongard was a prolific climber. He was not part of the first ascent of the Radiator however. The late Walt Shipley was John Middendorfs partner. Ammon was mistaken. He may have confused the Radiator with the Swiss/American Route on Angel's Landing.
See my earlier post ( AAJ 1991 p. 172)
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diesel___smoke
Dec 16, 2003, 6:38 AM
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Throwing Shipley into the mix is still asking for a proud line. Shipley has put up very proud lines, remarkable in their time, I doubt anyone will challenge that. All I'm trying to relay is the experience, reputation and boldness should be considered of the first ascensionist...
For instance, as Copperhead put it, a first ascensionist will give a climb a certain 'flavor'... and depending upon who the first ascensionist is, I believe it will shine some light on how the climb will be. And I'd be cautious on this one... it's lack of traffic should say something.
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