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zachallen
Dec 14, 2003, 1:14 AM
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I'm thinking about starting to campus and i was wondering what gains any1 got and how fast?
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styndall
Dec 14, 2003, 1:40 AM
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I got elbow tendinitis, and fast!
moderation is key
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rckclimbergurl
Dec 15, 2003, 12:56 AM
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Hey styndall, how often were you campusing? And what kind of stuff were you doing, and for how long?
I'm thinking of forkin up the money for a hangboard... but don't wanna overdo it... even though it will a temptation!!
:)
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arostecrux
Dec 15, 2003, 2:10 AM
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nothing wrong with a hangboard, or campusing. a hangboard is good to play with, on off days, or whenver you want to train a specific position. Campusing will make your fingers, basically everything from your wrist down, very strong. The rest of your body loses its climbing ability if all you do is campus, so try and climb normally at least once a week or so if you plan campusing. Metolious has a good article about campusing on their website.
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styndall
Dec 15, 2003, 2:43 AM
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Back when I first started climbing, I bouldered all the time, and did some campusing at the end of pretty much every session. It got me hella stronger pretty fast, but I definitely overdid it, tearing my elboys up and requiring some time off (time that I seriously begrudged myself).
As to a hangboard, it's a good investment if you're careful with yourself and go slowly enough for your tendons to keep up with your muscles. I (being, as usual, an impatient buffoon) hurt a pulley cranking pullups on two finger pockets. Now, I stick to slopers, and my hands have healed themselves.
If you get a hangboard, use the slopers most often - they'll train both open-hand and crimp strength, and they're unlikely to hurt you, or at least less likely than edges. Plus, HP40 is mostly slopers, and getting ready to climb there is *always* a worthwhile endeavor.
The moral of this story is that moderation is key. Do what you want, but stop before you hurt yourself.
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dhaulagiri
Dec 15, 2003, 3:27 AM
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I've had experience using both a hangboard and a campus board at my house. I didn't ever really get into using the hangboard at all. Just doing pullups was pretty hard to get into and I didn't find the hangboard all that fun. Now that I am more experienced and I added a campus board I'm pretty stoked about that. I use it moderately (1-2 times a week at the most) and I've noticed quite a bit of gain in brute strength. I can lockoff and campus with much more control than I ever could before so I would say that it is definitely worthwhile. I also find it more enjoyable to use because you can vary the workout a lot more than with a hangboard.
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overlord
Dec 16, 2003, 8:56 AM
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campusing is a good way to gain strenght and ijure yourself.
as for gaining strenght fast... dont do it. youll most likely injure something. just campus 1-2 days every wek with no more than 2 additional days climbing. and make sure you warm up first.
fingerboard is to be used similary. you can even use bot of them at the same time, just make sure you get enough of rest (like 1 day finger+campus, 1 day easy climbing, 1 day rest, 1 day finger+campus, 1 day rest, 1 day hard climbing, 1 day rest; do anymore climbing and youll overtrain. you can probably keep this going for about 2 month, then you MUST rest for at elast a week, or else...)
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collegekid
Dec 17, 2003, 6:08 AM
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related question...
which is more effective at building contact strength, a campus board or a hang board?
I have a hang board, but don't have access to a campus board. I actually only do climbing-related activities 3 times a week...1 day hang, 1 day climbing gym, 1 day outside.
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overlord
Dec 18, 2003, 9:26 AM
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i would vote for campus.
but you can also do campus like stuff with a fingerboard. you can add weight, do negative repetitions (descendong a campus), concentrate on slopers...
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dc
Dec 18, 2003, 11:39 AM
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just a stupid question..
whats the difference between a campus board, a hang board and a finger board?
..aren't they all basically just a little chunk of plastic (or similar material) that has pockets and holds shaped into them.. like how do they differ? or are they all the same sorta thing..
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furryfrisbee
Dec 18, 2003, 2:22 PM
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In reply to: just a stupid question.. whats the difference between a campus board, a hang board and a finger board? ..aren't they all basically just a little chunk of plastic (or similar material) that has pockets and holds shaped into them.. like how do they differ? or are they all the same sorta thing..
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/trainingboards-rungs.htm
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rockprodigy
Dec 18, 2003, 2:55 PM
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The problem with a campus board is that it only trains one grip position. The forearm muscle is extremely complicated, and all possible grip positions must be trained for them to develop.
Furthermore, the hangboard is better suited for Hypertrophy training (building muscle), whereas the campus board is purely Maximum Recruitment training due to the dynamic nature of it.
In short, you need both.
To learn more, read some books. Performance Rockclimbing, or Training For Climbing.
If you are too lazy, just get the hangboard, it will be more beneficial in the long run.
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jammin
Dec 18, 2003, 3:53 PM
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I have been using campus boards and hangboards in conjunction with climbing for about a year now and I have seen great results.
I use 4-6 week training schedules which means that I change my program every 4 to 6 weeks. I don't campus or hangboard on same days or on the days that I climb.
The key is moderations and REST. Realize what you are doing. Forearms and hands are very delicate strucutures and are not designed to be powerful, put precise. So you can easily injure them. In all seriousness, if you campus, hangboard and climb in the same week, that is probably enough or close to it. Also be sure to put rest days between your training days.
Lastly, be patient. It took me 4 or 5 months before I saw real results.
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fredrogers
Dec 18, 2003, 5:03 PM
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If you train on a campus board you will be training power so make sure you have had at least one day rest prior to using it. Then you will be training fresh muscles. Warm up and then campus. Many people use the board to "blow themselves out" at the end of a bouldering session. That means you'll be using the board when your muscles are tired and ripe for injury. Instead, always use the campus board first and then go home or do some light bouldering or routes afterwards.
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sspssp
Dec 18, 2003, 5:09 PM
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In reply to: nothing wrong with a hangboard, or campusing. a hangboard is good to play with, on off days,
I wouldn't call a heavy hangboard session an "off day." A serious hangboard session is a climbing day, it is not a rest day. And if it is not a serious session, then the benefit is probably minimal.
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overlord
Dec 18, 2003, 7:45 PM
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In reply to: If you train on a campus board you will be training power so make sure you have had at least one day rest prior to using it. Then you will be training fresh muscles. Warm up and then campus. Many people use the board to "blow themselves out" at the end of a bouldering session. That means you'll be using the board when your muscles are tired and ripe for injury. Instead, always use the campus board first and then go home or do some light bouldering or routes afterwards.
thats how you do it.
anyway:
camppus board: a series of rungs you ascend (or descend) using only your hands by either jumping with both hands or pulling yourself up and reaching higher with one hand.
finger (or hang board): a board with many different holds. you doo dead hangs and pull ups.
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melekzek
Dec 18, 2003, 7:50 PM
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In reply to: I didn't ever really get into using the hangboard at all. .... I added a campus board I'm pretty stoked about that.
I would agree w/ that, hangboard is sooo boring, I end up not using it much. Campus board is more fun, and keeps you motivated, but
In reply to: I got elbow tendinitis, and fast! |
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marks
Jan 3, 2004, 7:21 PM
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ive started on the campus board for the winter.it is by far the best way to get strong quick.its also the most intense training there is.so be careful,2 hours a week is the most i will do.combine it with indoor bouldering with a weight belt(7lb) i use,and you we get results in no time
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deafears
Jan 3, 2004, 11:29 PM
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The best way to achieve gains in power on a campus board without getting hurt is to avoid down-campusing. Do 1-4 maximal throws, moving up the board, then drop to the ground.
This actually avoids the mechanism (Gogal tendon reflex) that led Wolfgang Gullich to develop the original campus routine. Gullich was basically inindestructible (except, sadly, in a car) so he could perform double-hand drops on a campus board and intentionally shock load his tendons for rapid strength gains. Most humans, however, get hurt when they try this.
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rockprodigy
Jan 7, 2004, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: The best way to achieve gains in power on a campus board without getting hurt is to avoid down-campusing
Yeah, that's called "Reactive Training". Performance Rockclimbing recommends that you should only use it if you have been training hard for 6 years or more!
...but boy does it work....
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hosh
Jan 7, 2004, 6:52 PM
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The Gym I climb at has a set of Metolius Campus boards (the wooden ones) and every now and then, I campus up them. It helps my finger strength and forearms. It's set on an overhung wall too, which makes it even more rewarding. But I don't use the campus boards that often, I'm trying to avoid tendonitus in my fingers :wink: Campusing is good fun, but I usually look at it as more of a party trick to impress the ladies than a really helpful climbing technique. I've never been in an outside situation where campusing was a must... Builds strength, pumps the ego, usually stays indoors.
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