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Undiscovered classics in JTree?
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petsfed


Dec 20, 2003, 11:43 AM
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Undiscovered classics in JTree?  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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I'm going to Joshua Tree right after christmas and I'm looking for some climbs to do. Mind you, I don't want to wait in line to do Geronimo or anything of that sort. I want lines that are classic, but not often done. I want lines that YOU have been on. Don't be like the people I meet at Vedauwoo ("Dude, have you done Kim?" "Yeah, 35 feet not worth the walk" "Well I heard... cuz I haven't done it yet" *shakes head*). Tell me what's worth my time 1) to get used to JTree (5.4-5.8) 2) to have fun at JTree (5.7-5.10-) 3) to kick my own ass at JTree (5.10 and up). I have a preference for cracks, but I'll give your slabs a try. Any recommended small offwidths are good too. My biggest cam is a #4 camalot, so don't send me up the Gaping Maw Of Death (TM) unless you can hook me up with a big cam. And assuming somebody gets me the necessary info for the shindig you crazy cats are slapping together, I'll be there for that too.

Edit:stupid smilies screwin' up my message...


fyreflii


Dec 20, 2003, 4:08 PM
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My personal recommendation is Sail Away 5.8- on Hidden Tower in Real Hidden Valley. Beautiful, sustained, and easy . . . couldn't go wrong with that climb!


mntnman1973


Dec 20, 2003, 4:45 PM
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Try Dung Fu, I think it was 5.6 or 7. Good crack for the first half than it goes to a freeky chimney for a bit than closes back to crack. Scared the pi$$ out of me in the chimney :shock: but when I was done I was fired up for the day. It is just to the left of White Lightning 5.7.


alpnclmbr1


Dec 20, 2003, 4:48 PM
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My standard must do list
the eye 5.1/4
the bong 5.1/4
Mental Physics (5.7+) - Wonderland Of Rocks
Sail Away ( 5.8-) - Real Hidden Valley
I can’t believe it’s a girdle – R for follower
Room To Shroom - Barker Dam
Touch And Go - Echo Rock
Illusion Dweller (5.10a/b) - Real Hidden Valley – mega long pitch
Light Sabre - Geology Tour Road -
Bird Of Fire - Split Rocks
Poodles are People Too - Lost Horse
Figures on a Landscape - Wonderland Of Rocks - AIR
Roller Ball (10 roof crack)
O'Kelley's Crack - Echo Rock
Clean And Jerk - Real Hidden Valley
Imaginary voyage - my favorite josh route
Perpetual Motion - Geology Tour Road – boondocks classic crack
Rubicon
Alf’s aręte - sport
Left Ski Track – HVCG – classic 1967 route, go straight up the headwall to the right in 1 pitch from the ground
Such A Savage - Wonderland Of Rocks
Winds of whoopee – as good as any 5 star route
Swept Away - Echo Rock
Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b) - Lost Horse
Scary Poodles - Lost Horse - scary
Wangerbanger - Echo Rock
Apartheid - The Outback sport
Leave It To Beaver - Real Hidden Valley
Satanic Mechanic—best sport route in jt
Baby Apes – probably tr but great movement


I am not that good for crowded day beta but these are less likely to have a line. No bolts on these for the most part:
Imaginary voyage 10d - my favorite josh route
Perpetual Motion 11a - Geology Tour Road – boondocks classic crack
Light Sabre 10b - Geology Tour Road -
Winds of whoopee 11a – as good as any 5 star route
the bruiser 10c
a womans work is never done 10c
mel cracks 10+
fingers on a landscape 11b (scary?)
no calculators allowed 10a, crowded??


fredbob


Dec 20, 2003, 6:09 PM
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In reply to:
... I don't want to wait in line to do Geronimo or anything of that sort. I want lines that are classic, but not often done. ...I have a preference for cracks, but I'll give your slabs a try. Any recommended small offwidths are good too.

Alpnclimbr1's recommendations are pretty good, you won't go wrong with any of those, but if you are looking for the not often done or staying away from the masses, best to really experience Josh and head out into the northern Wonderland or Queen Mt. You will see few other people and have all the routes to yourself. Many 4 & 5 star classics await. You do have to walk (and last time I was out at Josh, the road leading to Queen Mt. was being repaired and the hike is even longer. But you will probably not see anyone else either.

If you don't like crowds, stay away from Sail Away, Illusion Dweller or most routes at Hemingway Buttress, Freeway Wall, Rock Garden Valley, Atlantis and particularly the Dairy Queen Wall (which is usually swarming with people).

Lower and Upper Walt's Rocks on Queen Mt has many excellent routes, including a number not in the guide. most in the 10b to 11a range. These include cracks Perfect Fingers (10b, not a finger crack), Crack Queen (11a) and White Rain (11a, but sporty; stick clip 1st bolt). The route to the left of White Rain (forget name; starts in chimney, then right into crack finishes on excellent face (11a) is fantastic. Lots to keep you busy.

In No. Wonderland: Bighorn Dihedral is a little know gem (10c) crack and could be combined with a day at Fortress/Flying Fortress. For easier bolted face (sport and sportish) Outer Mongolia has lots of routes and not so far to walk. Break out of the mold, have an adventure. Until the new Josh guide comes out, buy Bartlett's Wonderland guide which has lots of this stuff (but not all) and is pretty accurate for directions.

Have fun.


jtme


Dec 20, 2003, 6:17 PM
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Try "Teddy" 5.9** and/or "Lovey" 5.9** on "Gilligans Island" The walk off takes you right by "Hit it Ethel" 5.8 ** There are harder routes at "Gilligans" also

...........or anything at the "Hidden Dome" or the "Cool Dome.

Short hike!! No crowds!!

-r-


micronut


Dec 20, 2003, 7:10 PM
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less hyped J-Tree classics, let's see?

Captain Kronos ,.5.7 sandbag, more like 5.9 and Jerry Brown, 5.10b on the Brown wall are totally worthy and get tons of sun, Ball Bearing on the Sentinal is an awesome 2 pitch route but has only minimal morning sun...

A couple around Barker: An Eye for an Eye, a Route for a Route, .10b on Lakeside rock is a totally classic slab. A little heady getting to the first bolt, and Bad Lizards, .10a on Rat Rock are a couple quality rotes without much traffic. GBoth get a lot of winter sun. There are som many more.maybe I'll list more later


winglady


Dec 21, 2003, 7:07 AM
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Life's a B-tch & then you Marry One (Wonderland)
Funny Bone (Snickers)
Planet X


(P.S. Apparently we're not allowed to spell out certain words, like the B-word above, in this forum. I've been edited!)


vulgarian


Dec 21, 2003, 8:51 AM
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Anything that requires a long walk is usually a good bet, albeit not a guarantee. My best days come from getting up really early and leaving just after sunrise. You can bang out 2-3 close classics before the crowds start arriving. Then you can pick and choose the rest of the day. This is also a good time to find Peter Croft out doing his morning solos. I hear he climbs more routes before 8:00 am than people do in a couple of days.

Drew


esoteric1


Dec 21, 2003, 11:27 AM
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peeter easter pumpkin eater, quite a drive...one of the hardest 10.c`s ive ever come acrost. tape the knuckle for that one, its obscure and you are almost garanteed solitude in this area mid week


thomaskeefer


Dec 21, 2003, 7:23 PM
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Here are some that pretty much fit your description:
The bong (sometimes crowded but it goes quick) 5.4
Orphan.. classic with a bit of everything~ incredibly fun 5.9 and of the three in our group when we did it, each had a different way
Cake Walk (5.9)
Colorado Crack and Spiderman.. rarely crowded...
Popes Crack
My vote for most crowded route thats worth the wait.. SW Corner of Headstone


pbjosh


Dec 21, 2003, 9:20 PM
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In reply to:
Here are some that pretty much fit your description:
The bong (sometimes crowded but it goes quick) 5.4
Orphan.. classic with a bit of everything~ incredibly fun 5.9 and of the three in our group when we did it, each had a different way
Cake Walk (5.9)
Colorado Crack and Spiderman.. rarely crowded...
Popes Crack
My vote for most crowded route thats worth the wait.. SW Corner of Headstone

Every route listed above is a super-classic and very frequently crowded route.


esoteric1


Dec 23, 2003, 3:30 PM
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check out the white cliffs of dover, there is some gems out there, if your willing to do the schlog
mark


climblouisiana


Dec 23, 2003, 3:35 PM
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Desert Solitaire. Pretty cool climb with not alot around it. You'll never find anyone waiting in line for this one and it's close to the road.


thegreytradster


Dec 23, 2003, 5:00 PM
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Alice in Wonder Jam
General Hospital
Spanish Bayonet
Remain in Light
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
Crack #5,#6 (Isles Corridor)
Dreams of Red Rocks
The Tanning Salon
Breakfast of Champions
The Wisest Crack
200 Motels
Trail of Tiers

All good routes with solitude
Should fit your definition of "fun"
Good luck finding some of them if non local!


guyzo


Dec 24, 2003, 4:01 PM
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Lots of really great climbs already listed go find these:
Rubicon
Bendix Claws
Invisability lessons
Chalk up another one
Right O'Kellys Crack
Left O'Kellys Crack AKA Wangerbanger
Misfits
Energy Crisis (I know it's a closed climb but hey screw the Rangers, they suck)
Bird of Fire
Walk on the Wild Side
A Good Day to Die
Bearded Cabbage
Janes Addiction
Also go out to Samuleson's rocks, just to check out the "words of truth"
Now go have some fun :) :)


moabbeth


Dec 24, 2003, 4:22 PM
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If you don't want any lines, avoid Hidden Valley, Echo Cove, Real Hidden Valley, etc. If you want to have a lot of climbs and no people, head into the Wonderland of Rocks. Mental Physics may have people on it cause it's a classic but that's the main one. North and South Astrodome have enough that you should have a good time.

There are three climbs over on Lloyd's Wall in Lost Horse that should be open and they're right next to each other: Friendeater, Flawless Fissure and Micronesia. 5.9, 5.8 and 5.10d if I remember correctly. And Uncle Remus is also back in that vicinity too, but that's not a crack.


sharpender


Dec 24, 2003, 7:44 PM
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One crack climb you'll likely have a blast doing and may find uncrowded, especially midweek is Bird on a Wire. Lost Horse Wall.
Haven't seen too many recommendations for your good slab climbs. Suck it up for Run for Your Life. 10.b in the Real Hidden Valley. It gets steeper and thinner the higher you get. When you get down from there head over to Loose Lady for classic J Tree friction. 8)
Oh, when you finish Bird, scramble on up to the top of the formation. You'll find yourself smack in the middle of the Park with a 360 degree view of almost every major formation/area out there..


petsfed


Dec 25, 2003, 11:40 AM
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Thank you all.

I have about a page worth of recommendations to chase down before I leave for california tomorrow morning.


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