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scubasnyder
Dec 25, 2003, 11:26 PM
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I have a question to anyone who has one of these hand drills, do they actually work nicely, can i bolt a route with one or will i be there for about 2 hours on one bolt ??
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boltdude
Dec 25, 2003, 11:36 PM
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No, it's all a myth, every bolt placed before the late 1980s is imaginary...
Seriously speaking -
Yes, they work fine, they take patience and there's a definite learning curve. Most people take 30-45 minutes in good granite on their first short 3/8" x 2" or so bolt. I've done one on lead from a bad stance in 6 minutes, and Jerry Anderson has placed 5 in 23 minutes (Yosemite granite). Usually takes me more like 10-15 minutes, but I've placed over 600 by hand (500 of which were expanding old 1/4" holes).
Practice in a (junk) boulder, do a few bolts, and it's not that bad.
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slavetogravity
Dec 25, 2003, 11:38 PM
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At the risk of offending you I'm going to pass a bit of wisdom on to you that has been passed on from climber to climber since the dawn of bolt drilling.
If you have to ask, you have no business bolting routes.
Peace.
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scubasnyder
Dec 25, 2003, 11:41 PM
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thanks for helping, hey u have to learn somwhere dont u
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climbbaja
Dec 26, 2003, 1:45 AM
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Proof that it has been done that way for a long time...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=22669
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jimmyjamal
Dec 26, 2003, 4:38 AM
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where i climb most, the gorge, most bolts are 30 years old, the fella that placed them was a dude by the name Danny Ng, he used a hand drill, by that i mean a manual one without a motor in it in other words, and these are the old u bolts needing to holes for each. each hole took like 2 to 3 hours. be glad you don't have to do that know.
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j_ung
Dec 26, 2003, 9:31 PM
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In reply to: At the risk of offending you I'm going to pass a bit of wisdom on to you that has been passed on from climber to climber since the dawn of bolt drilling. If you have to ask, you have no business bolting routes. Peace.
Bad advice. Who decides who has business bolting routes? Everybody who ever placed a bolt started with one. I've seen good advice from slavetogravity, but this ain't it. Better to ask questions and learn before placing dangerous protection or putting up a death route that few people will repeat.
j_ung
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slavetogravity
Dec 26, 2003, 9:38 PM
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[quote="j_ung. I've seen good advice from slavetogravity, but this ain't it. j_ung WOW so someone someone is actually reading and taking my advice?! That's great! As for this last tid-bit. Oh well, can't please all of the people all of the time.
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slavetogravity
Dec 26, 2003, 9:43 PM
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In reply to: I've seen good advice from slavetogravity, but this ain't it. j_ung |
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cire
Dec 26, 2003, 9:45 PM
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If you have to ask the question maybe you should not place a bolt?
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monkeyface1982
Jan 12, 2004, 3:30 AM
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Thats it im sick of hear this shit!~
i hate the idea that we have to be ordained by god himslef to place a bolt!~
all i can say is if you are interested in learning how to bolt , then dont let anyone stop you, in saying that there are common codes and ethics,
and to all you ppl out there that say that we shouldent learn if we have to ask, F*%$ you,
the only reason where asking is so that we dont make the fatal mistake and kill some one, (touch wood).
so back the F*%$ up and help or shut the F*%$ up,
im sorry for tha utter anger in this post but im sick to death of hearing of all these ppl saying that where not alloued to bolt routes,
i think its got to be one of the greatest feeling to put up a route, so who are you to stop us?
so in conclusion:
learn,
read,
ask,
practice on shit rock,
dont let any one say you cant do it,
and be safe!
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goldencrowbar
Jan 12, 2004, 4:14 AM
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Start by drilling in small pet rocks in the privacy of your back yard. Then find a scrap boulder or roadcut and try drilling from a stance. After you do this there should be few worries about unethical behaivor. :D
On edit, if you want to learn cheaply and quickly about doing this, just go to a hardware store and get a short Starr bit. Using it for one or two holes from a stance will let you know what you're getting into
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scubasnyder
Jan 12, 2004, 4:18 AM
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i just got a hand drill cant wait to test it out
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areuinclimber
Oct 13, 2005, 5:51 AM
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bolts everywhere, all i see is bolts!!
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verticon
Oct 13, 2005, 6:53 AM
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I opened a sport climbing area in 1990 and by that time I used a lot of pitons. Now, as many of the routes became very popular I started to replace some of the old pegs with bolts . So, I bought a Petzl Rocpec for drilling holes and it works like a charm. It uses replaceable SDS plus drills, it can accommodate any diameter and when a drill is worn out you can replace it in seconds. You should try this one !
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kflohr
Oct 13, 2005, 4:36 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: At the risk of offending you I'm going to pass a bit of wisdom on to you that has been passed on from climber to climber since the dawn of bolt drilling. If you have to ask, you have no business bolting routes. Peace. Bad advice. Who decides who has business bolting routes? Everybody who ever placed a bolt started with one. I've seen good advice from slavetogravity, but this ain't it. Better to ask questions and learn before placing dangerous protection or putting up a death route that few people will repeat. j_ung
I agree, its better to ask than set unsafe protection, you got to start somewhere!
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mr_woo
Feb 12, 2006, 1:37 PM
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In reply to: Bad advice. Who decides who has business bolting routes? Everybody who ever placed a bolt started with one.
No kidding. and if any one finds themselves concerned with my placement of bolts, or questions my divine right to place one... GET THE FUCK OUT OF MY BACKYARD!!!
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