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a3webhog
Jan 2, 2004, 2:35 AM
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What do you guys think of the Petzl Tibloc? I was thinking of carrying one for self-rescue. I like it better than a prussik cord because it's smaller and looks easier to use.
What do you think?
edited to include link...
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crushingfinger
Jan 2, 2004, 3:27 AM
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A prusik is a lot nicer to your rope. If you do use a tibloc tie a knot below it before you start up. I had one slip on a wet rope while caving once; it went through the sheath, me and the whole mess slid down the rope's core and onto the floor of the cavern. Thank god there were no stilagmites. This is pretty rare but it makes you think. Petzl makes other mini assenders now for emergencys but prusik,s are lighter. :lol:
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galt
Jan 2, 2004, 4:46 AM
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I actually use my Tibloc to self belay. You can just use 2 of em' and up you go... kidding guys.
I do carry my Tibloc and prefer it to a prussik. There are pro's and con's to both, but if my Tibloc wasn't a gift I wouldn't have ever bought myself one.
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scubasnyder
Jan 2, 2004, 4:51 AM
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i would jsut get an ascender made by petzl
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timstich
Jan 2, 2004, 5:22 AM
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I have two Tiblocs and tried ascending with them on a 10.5 mil. dynamic rope with carabiners within the range that are acceptible for the device. At first I couldn't get them to bite the rope, and they would slip a little each time. I got the hang of it and finished the climb. I have never actually tried to ascend a rope with prusiks. So before I try that I can't say which I would prefer more. I like the Tiblocs to a degree, but don't feel strongly enough about it to recommend them.
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occlimbr
Jan 2, 2004, 5:30 AM
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I think Tiblocs are the coolest things ever invented. I use them for a lot. Self Rescue, Tightining systems, and for ropeclimbing. They work great.
-Kyle
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coldclimb
Jan 2, 2004, 5:36 AM
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Great for emergencies, but I wouldn't use one regularly. Only time I've used mine was when I didn't want to second a climb in the rain. Stuck it on the other side of the rope and pulled myself up while the belayer took in slack.
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david.yount
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Jan 2, 2004, 7:30 AM
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I like the Tibloc, it works well.
Teaching basic mountaineering skills I've demonstrated climbing a rope with friction hitches many many times (bachman, hedden, klemheist and prusik - in that order of preference). I've also raced up lines in casual competitions.
I've found the Tibloc faster and more efficient for rope climbing than friction hitches. If you only carry 1 Tibloc then use it on your harness and use a hitch for your foot loop. The Tibloc on the harness is virtually self-tending, it releases its grip as you stand up in the foot stirrup and develops a grip when you wait your harness.
Unlike the largest 3 sizes of Black Diamond Hexes, the Tibloc make a nice sound against rock.
But however. It's important to practice with the Tibloc before you need to rely on it. For some people the Tibloc can be finicky at developing a grip, until they learn through trial and error and experience how to use it. Also, a friction hitch is easier to climb down a rope than a Tibloc.
Twice I've climbed a 7.6mm line with 2 Tiblocs. It wasn't plug-and-play easy. I experimented with various large-stock carabiners to find one that constricted on the ultra small line. And I had to hand-set the Tiblocs each time, they wouldn't bite automatically when weighting them.
Looking back, I don't think my usual 5mm cord loop would have provided enough friction to climb the 7.6mm line; friction hitches gripping force relies on the difference in diameter between the friction cord and the rope to be climbed. And if I had wound enough turns in a hitch to generate an adequate grip, then the resulting knot would have been stiff to raise up the line as I ascended.
Wild Country Ropeman and Ropeman II work well, but I prefer the Tibloc because it's far lighter, smaller and cheaper [and I'm not sure how small diameter line they can ascend?].
--David.
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favorablesteak
Jan 6, 2004, 1:02 AM
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One of the biggest factors in a Tibloc functioning properly I've found is the caribiner you choose to use with it. The gear manual from Petzl recommends a 'biner with a round stock, 10mm - 12mm. I use the Petzl OK oval locker and it works great.
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coldclimb
Jan 6, 2004, 2:18 AM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
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One thing to note though, there was a thread recently that mentioned the tibloc, and one user (I can't remember who) was very adamant that they should never be used, and had a lot of good reasons and experiences why. Might be a good idea to look up that post and read it through. :) Try the forums search, and if that doesn't work, try the google site search. Forum search has been having problems lately.
Edit: I found these two here, may be of some interest:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=493263
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12211
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diodesanddihedrals
Jan 8, 2004, 6:11 AM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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I use the tiblocs as back ups. For aid, I keep em around in case I drop an ascender. For sport and trad I keep two tiblocs as part of a little kit that hangs off my harness. This 'kit' is just two tiblocs, two biners, and a 48'' runner.
If I'm following a tough section and have to ascend past it...I'll put a tibloc on the rope and clip a biner on it, then I'll put the other tibloc and biner underneath it. I'll clip the 48'' runner in the lower tibloc and stand up using the runner. After I've stood up I'll clip the upper tibloc's biner into my belay loop and sit in my harness. Then I'll jug the line.
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