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kevinwaldock


Jan 6, 2004, 11:11 AM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
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Ontario Trad advice
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Hello, got a couple of questions, first i want to start leading i have a lack of gear though consisting of a full set of nuts doubles in the mid to larger sizes, a set of quickdraws, a whole bunch of lockers, and a whole bunch of slings. what other gear is totally needed in general to lead some 5.8 and down on the escarphment. like what is usally the best for that limstone, tricams, hexes, cams. also what kind of sizes are usally the norm. i know it varies form climb to climb but in general whats needed. The second question is about the clove hitch. when tied are both ends of rope loadable. ive been meesing around with it all week and they both seem to be okay when loaded but some confirmation from RC.com would be great. thanks in advance,
Kevin


craggincragin


Jan 7, 2004, 2:27 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2003
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Re: Ontario Trad advice [In reply to]
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Lack of gear or rack of gear? Looks like you're all set for basic leading. Get some Tricams - pink tricam is a favorite. It never hurts to have a trusty set of Hexes, and perhaps some micro stoppers for those thin cracks. Maybe a #2 BD Camalot for starters, but it really depends on the size of the cracks you'll be climbing.

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The second question is about the clove hitch. when tied are both ends of rope loadable.

Both ends? Huh?


burz


Jan 7, 2004, 3:10 PM
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Re: Ontario Trad advice [In reply to]
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The clove hitch is symmetrical. So either end can be loaded.


hoppinbig


Jan 7, 2004, 3:49 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
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Re: Ontario Trad advice [In reply to]
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I live in toronto - and climb all the time on the escarpment..... climbing in southern ontario (not including Bon echo) means climbing on the limestone that makes up the Niagara Escarpment. Our limestone here (for the most part) doesn't have the beautiful cracks that you find elsewhere - you get small inconsistent cracks. For pro this means lots and lots of nuts - I'd recommend a double set of nuts (especiallly in the small to medium sizes).

In the cam family small to medium size will be just fine - unless you know you need it leave the number 3 (2+ - 3+ inch) camelot on the ground, infact the number 2 camelot that someone recommended isnt as useful as say .5 - 1.75 tcu's...

I am a huge proponent of tricams - I love using them (especially when building belays on multipitch) in places like the gunks and seneca rocks they should be a permanent fixture on your rack - in ontario the pink and red can be used (but not as often as in other areas).

Anyways thats my advice... but the best thing to do is go climb with someone who knows his/her stuff and clean their gear (pay attention to which pieces are being placed alot).

If you have any other questions send me a PM.


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