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Micro Nuts : Best for Aid ?
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clorda


Jan 12, 2004, 2:49 PM
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Micro Nuts : Best for Aid ?
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Not that I would want to use these for anything _but_ aid...

So, what are your views on micro nuts ? Given the choices out there (RPs, Brassies, BD Micros, HB brass offsets, DMM Peenuts,...) what are your preffered and, more importantly, why ?

Thanks for all info.

Cheers,

CL


epic_ed


Jan 12, 2004, 3:11 PM
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Depends on where you plan to use them. I have a wide assortment; RPs, BD micros, and HB offsets. My HB offsets probably get the most use. They tend to fit narrow, flaring granite cracks better than a standard shape like the RPs or the BDs.

A buddy of mine has the DMM Peanuts, and they rock for some really weird placements. I haven't placed them, but he has made them stick in a couple of improbable spots where nothing else worked.

The Metolius Astronuts look like they might be worth checking out, too.

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/curve-astronut.htm

Overall, it's nice to have a variety of shapes and sizes, especially if you're looking to do a thin route clean where the tiny stoppers may help you keep the hammer in the bag.

Ed


skiclimb


Jan 12, 2004, 5:08 PM
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I tend to use the HB offsets the most ...they are the majoriy of my micronuts...but it is good to have a few others mixed in.


scubasnyder


Jan 12, 2004, 5:18 PM
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i like BD


radistrad


Jan 12, 2004, 5:29 PM
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HB offsets rule, even the larger sizes. They fit in the old piton scars like no other nut.
RP's have long been the micronut standard and work well.
I have no experience with other brands.


Partner holdplease2


Jan 12, 2004, 5:29 PM
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Micronuts. A favorite topic of mine> I have BD micronuts, HB offsets, RPs, and Peenuts.

HB offsets: Fit where nothing else will, if you really want to maximize surface contact (which is important with something as soft as these, corner contact only and they are more likely to sheer) Definately have a set of these, whether for Granite pin scars or Sandstone varnish cracks.

BD micros: The square shape of these are nice, but about the same as RPs. HOWEVER, they are made of a slightly harder material, which says to me that they are less likely to sheer off in the event that you fell on one.

Peenuts: I carry these all the time but have yet to find a placement that would only take these. They are similar in size to the regular BD stoppers in size 1,2,3,and 4, but with a slight offset taper. They seem really hard so I dont see them having much bite. These are the least important, in my opinion.

If I was going to get my first micronuts, I would get the HB offsets and some BD micros...use the micros when you are worried about shearing, and the HB offsets when you need to maximize surface area.

If you already have BD stoppers #1,2,3 and 4, then maybe pass on the peenuts for now.

However, I am far from being an aid expert, but have led around 60 pitches, spread between sandstone, granite, and basalt.

Don't forget mallards and peckers for would-be micronut placements that go deep into the rock, like a pinscar would. These can be sweet, too.

Hope this helps,

-Kate.


Partner holdplease2


Jan 12, 2004, 5:41 PM
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Oh yeah, micronuts have held my trad falls before, in particular the HB offset #4 and 2 of the BD micros, so don't count them out entirely when things get dicy.

-Kate.


epic_ed


Jan 12, 2004, 5:53 PM
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In reply to:
Oh yeah, micronuts have held my trad falls before, in particular the HB offset #4 and 2 of the BD micros, so don't count them out entirely when things get dicy.

-Kate.

You had a BD #2 micro hold a fall?! :shock: Wow. Did you go buy a lottery ticket afterward? :lol: That had to be an exciting experience...


gunked


Jan 12, 2004, 6:06 PM
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I love the HB offsets for aid and trad. I once took a fall on the #3 behind a loose flake and it held! :shock: Someboday was looking out for my ass that day!! :angel: It was a short fall (4 or 5 ft.) but it was protecting a sizeable runout with 'bouncing' fall potential!

The BD micros rock for aid on Granite!

I've had some experience with the Metolius micros'(#6 - #8 ) on Zodiac and was quite impressed with their ability to hold bodyweight in flaring placements. I don't know about their ability to hold a fall though! I didn't have too much confidence in their overall placement strength. Not enough contact with the rock.

I also have a few RP's and they are pretty sweet on thin cracks as well.

Hope that helped,
-Jason :)


Partner holdplease2


Jan 12, 2004, 6:12 PM
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Hey Ed:

No, 2 bd micros on separate occasions...just to be clear. A number 4 and I don't know what the other was, but it was around that size.

One was behind a block for a roof move (short fall) another was in a "water groove" in some hard southern Ill sandstone. The HB offset was on panty raid at panty wall in Red Rocks when I got distracted talking to the sport climbers and forgot to watch my feet. Pretty funny.

Needless to say, of all the trad falls, I remember these sketch gear falls the best!

-Kate.


atg200


Jan 12, 2004, 7:15 PM
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HB bronze offsets are the ones to get if you only get one or even only two sets. i also have a mixture of BD and RPs that rarely get used.

i fell 35 feet onto the second smallest bronze offset once trying to do a first clean ascent on devils tower. exciting is not the word, but it held.


lambone


Jan 12, 2004, 7:54 PM
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clorda,

Micro nuts can be valuable for regular trad fee climbing, especialy as grades go up. I can think of many routes which can only be protected with RP's. If you see bring RP's in a guide book or route describtion, you better sure have some tiny nuts!

I don't free climb that hard often, so I primarily use them for Aiding...where they are considered essential. The only question is how many sets do you need...

One warning about HB's (the favorite fer sure). Be carefull when cleaning them...i.e. tap them up with a nut tool and hammer...don't yank them out. And if you are climbig with newbies, give them a lesson first. The cables on these things can get shredded on 1 pitch if not carefull.


Partner holdplease2


Jan 12, 2004, 10:44 PM
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Lambone...

Ah, my friend, how you must come to understand the mind of a gear whore...

It is never about how many sets you need...it is about how many sets you want! Gear that is so small you can carry 50 peices in your pocket like candy. Mmm.

Brrraaahhha haa haha ahhhh.

;)

-Conspicuous Consumption Kate.


andypro


Jan 12, 2004, 10:57 PM
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In reply to:
If you see bring RP's in a guide book or route describtion, you better sure have some tiny nuts!

I think a better way to put it is if the guide book says "bring RP's" you better sure have some big nuts :wink:


lambone


Jan 12, 2004, 11:35 PM
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In reply to:
Lambone...

Ah, my friend, how you must come to understand the mind of a gear whore...

It is never about how many sets you need...it is about how many sets you want! Gear that is so small you can carry 50 peices in your pocket like candy. Mmm.

Brrraaahhha haa haha ahhhh.

;)

-Conspicuous Consumption Kate.

Whatever, I've got quadruples on orange through green so STFU... :twisted:


Partner calamity_chk


Jan 13, 2004, 11:54 AM
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It is never about how many sets you need...it is about how many sets you want! Gear that is so small you can carry 50 peices in your pocket like candy. Mmm..

hahaha, this should go down in a hall of fame somewhere.


climbhigher


Jan 13, 2004, 5:38 PM
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Hb Offsets are Great. And Peenuts are good to. I love my rps.I have got 3 sets of Hb offset, one set of BD brass nuts and, a set of peenuts. They have kept me from nailing many times. And have given me added confidence in freeclimbing multiple times. I like to set more then one and equalize them on difficult aid and runout free climbing.
I have had Rps catch my falls multiple times while freeclimbing in Eldorado Canyon (Harder smoother kick ass sandstone). They seem to work better in more polished harder rock. I have also had them rip out on me before freeclimbing in Vedawoo (granite with larger crystals but more solid then kitty litter) and a few times while aiding in softer grity sandstone (Zion). I try not to trust the smaller ones from keeping me off the deck!
I have found out cleaning all Small nuts with a nut tool really saves the wire and inspecting the wires on your smaller nuts regularly is also a good idea.


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