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tobyhaughey
Jan 13, 2004, 10:55 PM
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This might be a somewhat odd question but I wandered if anyone had any tricks to avoid getting seriously cold hands whilst free climbing at altitude. I have read about many ascents of routes in the winter or just at altitude where there is a permanent snow line and have always wandered what people do to stop their hands becoming unusable. I have tried climbing in winter on rock routes in the UK in preparation for my trip to climb Mount Kenya this summer. However no matter how hard I try my hands always end up as blue aching lumps before long. The obvious solution of wearing light gloves to climb in helps a bit but not much.
Interested to see what other people do, perhaps my hands have poor blood flow or something. Any suggestions would be welcomed.
Cheers,
Toby.
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skiclimb
Jan 13, 2004, 11:11 PM
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Hah there isn't any great solution ...Climb what you can in gloves or with tools and only break out the bare hands when absolutely neccesary..before they become unusable stuff em in your armpits and wai till they warm up... swing your arms and do what you can to keep them as warm as possible...spare pairs of dry gloves and gloveliners can be worth the weight in gold. A good pair of mittens can be worthwhile to dpeed up the warming prcess while moving on moderate terrain.
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sandbag
Jan 13, 2004, 11:39 PM
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Sounds like you might be dehydrated too, keep up your fluid intake.
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jhump
Jan 13, 2004, 11:44 PM
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-On Belay- Belay with very warm gloves or mits with chemical heat packs. Before shouting "on belay" before belaying or shouting "climbing" before climbing- take the time to do the tricks listed below- even if you are not even close to cold.
-Warm hands at ledges or rest spots, before they get cold.
-Swing arms forcing blood into finger tips. Painful, but effective.
-Wear a hat and adequate clothing. If you don't have a hat on, and your fingers are cold, you have no right to complain.
-The "friction rub"- put hands between thighs, squeeze thighs together, rub hands together very hard. This will warm both sides of your hands as well as generate heat through using back and arm muscles. This is the most important trick I know. Be sure to do it before you get cold, as a preventative measure like the rest of these tricks. Doing this for 2 minutes before resuming climbing will result in a net gain of alot of time.
-Eat and drink plenty. A thermos of hot drink can warm anything.
-If climbing in light gloves, and belaying in heavier gloves, place the heavier gloves or mits inside your clothing layers somewhere near your body to prevent them from getting cold for your next belay.
-Often thinner gloves are warmer! What? That's right, if you are forced to overgrip your ice tools, you will get cold hands. Thinner palmed gloves allow more bloodflow. Also be sure to open your grip after every stick, to allow some blood back in. When you can, shake out like you were on a sport route. Hands that are far above the heart and pinched with a tightened leash are very hard to keep warm. Let the blood in when you can.
-Ice cold fingers demand all of these tricks done for several minutes to head off frostbite. Take the time. The screaming barfies will be your reward for a thorough warm up. You will have earned them for letting yourself get so cold.
-All of these tricks require discipline to act preemptively. Don't wait until you are cold, then screw your partner by bailing due to useless digits. That is what softies do. The mature, disciplined climber prides him/herself on never succombing to the elements. In the real cold of the alpine, fun comes after discipline.
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brianinslc
Jan 14, 2004, 12:06 AM
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In reply to: This might be a somewhat odd question but I wandered if anyone had any tricks to avoid getting seriously cold hands whilst free climbing at altitude.
I guess maybe trying to train your circulation in your hands?
I alternate super cold water after a climbing gym session...so my hands go numb...then warm up....then in the cold water 'till numb...and again. Seems to help for winter climbing a tad. I do this a few times a week in the fall and winter and it seems to help my hands stay warmer outside in the snow.
Heard an interesting technique, no idea if it works. To trick your circulation into not shutting off the flow to your extremities, especially hands... Try going outside scantily dressed to the point of shivering, but, sticking your hands all the while in a bucket of hot water. Sounds wierd, but, some folks claim it works.
Fingerless gloves? Shake and warm (chemical heat pack) in the ol' chalk bag?
Good luck!
Brian in SLC
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ginerbiner
Jan 14, 2004, 12:46 AM
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great suggestions. I'm a big baby when it comes to prickly cold climbing digits but have found out that the feelin' goes away after a while :lol:
when i dabbled in very minor mountaineering, my toes began to feel so awful that I'd cry. my partner back then said to kick a rock. baffled, i gave a laser-killer look like he was mad, patza in the head, and continued with my whining. then he simply grabbed my ankle and bashed my foot on a rock and i'll be danged if my toes didn't begin to get warm. try that with your hands? really gets the blood flowing.
cold hands, warm heart...
hey, our spring/summertime is Kenya's rainy season, which means it'll be snowing at altitude. maybe take trip in December instead? Still cold up there but not as. I did Mt. Kenya in November '96 and didn't have a prob. Those tootsie warmers didn't work at altitude for me.
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coldclimb
Jan 14, 2004, 12:59 AM
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Seen pics of people climbing with fingerless wool gloves. I personally don't sweat enough to need to chalk up when I'm freezing, so a chalkbag heater wouldn't work well for me. ;) Maybe heat pads taped to your hands underneath fingerless gloves?
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tobyhaughey
Jan 14, 2004, 12:25 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys, a few good suggestions to keep me busy.
Cheers,
Toby.
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lavalleedavid
Jan 15, 2004, 7:41 PM
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Make sure you keep those wrists warm, make some neoprene (nice as they tend to stay in place and you dont need poxy thumb loops) or fleece wrist gaitors. Wrists are one of the bodies highest heat loss areas.
Make sure you keep the rest of your body warm (especially head) but not overheated at all times. Keep your gloves as dry as possible, have a different pair for the walk in (you will sweat in em and make them damp) Keep the other pair stuffed down your shirt untill you climb and then swap em.
Oh yeah, move fast and climb south facing routes!
Hope that helps
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mountaingoat8
Jan 15, 2004, 8:23 PM
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have a nice ass handy.
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mother_sheep
Jan 15, 2004, 8:53 PM
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Just skimmed the posts so I hope this wasn't already mentioned. How about hand warmers in your chalk bag. Ahhhhhhhhhhhh
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