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timpanogos
Jan 14, 2004, 12:29 AM
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I've searched the web looking for trip reports/beta on this Yosemite route.
I do have the SuperTopo book - and so do have this much info.
Anybody done it or know of tr's for it?
Chad
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copperhead
Jan 14, 2004, 2:29 AM
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There was an article in Climbing Magazine several years ago, written by Greg Child on the original attempt of the route but I’m too lazy to look for it. The route was originally called “Heart of Darkness” and there was a story about a dude (Bill Denz?) who led the Psycho Killer pitch consisting of a bunch of bat-hooks – this pitch later became the “Welcome to Wyoming” pitch. I can’t remember the details so best to look for the article instead of listen to me…
Chad, is this going to be your next route?
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bigwalling
Jan 14, 2004, 2:56 AM
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I read that article a not too long ago. Bill bathooked the 2nd pitch, which later had the holes filled with rivets on Gregs 2nd attempt. Bill never made it past the 3rd pitch I don't think. I think the 2nd attempt team was Greg, Peter Mayfield, and maybe Auggie Klewin. They made it too the end of Welcome to Wyoming and bailed.
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bigwalling
Jan 14, 2004, 2:58 AM
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Oh also that article is in the issue with Eric Kolh on the f.a. of When Hell Was in Session. Aug of 96 I think.
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copperhead
Jan 14, 2004, 3:40 AM
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See, you shouldn’t listen to me.
Lazy? Now that you mention it Bigwalling, all I had to do was lean right about three feet and I would have been able to give you the real story… too funny. I guess the Climbing index in my brain needs to be updated… anybody know how I can plug it in?
Climbing No. 162, p. 80. "The Denz Option" This is a really good issue - the good ol' days of Climbing...
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wonderbread
Jan 14, 2004, 4:03 AM
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I believe there is also an article about the fa in John Sherman's Exposed book.
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timpanogos
Jan 14, 2004, 5:36 AM
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Bryan,
I've been working out hard in our gym (jugging) the the discussion came up the other day about WSR - everyone says it's an A5, yet super topo lists:
3 A4 pitches
1 C4 pitch
9 A3 pitches
1 C3 pitch
2 A2 pitches
2 C2 ptiches
1 A1 pitch
2 C1 pitch
3 manditory free <5.9
They ran me over to the sister pro-shop and grabbed another Yose guide book (don't remember the name) it did show it a5 and they pointed out the gear list - 100 heads!
The FA reports, and older reports are very interesting, but I assume rivets/bolts may have replaced some of those 100 heads - just wondering where the current evolution of the route might be.
I've been playing with Navaho C2, and I'm interested in pushing myself with some granite 3 - with interest in swinging that - send me to hell for destroying El-Cap - Hammer - but obviously the A4/C4's are out of my league.
Would love to try an A3 nailup.
Chad
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ricardol
Jan 14, 2004, 10:59 PM
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they were probably looking at the reid guide ..
i think the ratings are more current in the chris mac guides .. since they are newer topos and aid routes evolve over time..
-- ricardo
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copperhead
Jan 15, 2004, 12:41 AM
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Chad,
What Ricardo said, and…
Personally, I don’t think that the route was ever A5, nor do I think any routes were ever A5. I don’t believe that A5 exists. Why? Because the rating system is closed with no room for expansion. The free climbing rating system didn’t stop at 5.10, right? So why should aid climbing ratings stop at A5? Then Beyer wouldn’t have to rate things A5a,b,c, etc. Just my opinion. Haven’t done WSR but considering that it is a mid-80s route, I’m sure that there are harder routes on the Captain nowadays.
Keep your psyche up and you’ll have a blast on your next vertical mission.
Cheerz
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flamer
Jan 15, 2004, 2:03 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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In reply to: Climbing No. 162, p. 80. "The Denz Option" This is a really good issue - the good ol' days of Climbing...
Man that issue was one of the reason's I got into climbing walls!
I remember it well- I couldn't sit still reading those stories!!
I can't remember the last time one of the mags was that good!
josh
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