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Self Belay Setup
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dagawebb


Jan 14, 2004, 12:09 AM
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Self Belay Setup
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Can anyone give me some good resources online or in a book on the best setup and technique for Self belay on Aid.

I want to try on a very short climb the first few times and then try and try and try and try the techniques and test them get confident and competent and then progress.

Your assistance is greatly appreciated


adeptus


Jan 14, 2004, 12:17 AM
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Don't know any sites about the belay setup, but this might help:

http://ulrichprinz.com/...ent/selfmade/#grigri

http://www.wrenindustries.com/silentmanual.pdf

http://www.tradgirl.com/...dvanced.htm#leadsolo


dagawebb


Jan 14, 2004, 1:38 AM
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thanks for that mate I had a look and it showed how to setup with the silent partner but does not have all the info I wanted, but it is a start. Will keep the wrenindustries site PDF file and use that in conjunction with what else I find.

Cheers


epic_ed


Jan 14, 2004, 8:18 AM
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Pete has that information and a lot more in his "index."

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22175

Good luck sorting through it, but there's is some excellent information in there. It's a good place to start.

Ed


skiclimb


Jan 14, 2004, 8:42 AM
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Highly recommend you spend the dough on a Silent Partner. It is the only system I really trust for self belay and I've tried quite a few. It is also the fastest and easiest to use. With the Silent Partner it's not much different than regular climbing however you obviously must make sure your anchors are solid (as always anyway) and your rope is well flaked ...I highly recommend several knots set up in the rope as a backup...although I must admit I don't often use them because I do trust the SP.


glockaroo


Jan 14, 2004, 8:49 AM
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In reply to:
...Silent Partner. It is the only system I really trust for self belay and I've tried quite a few...

Wow. Then this gem:

In reply to:
...I highly recommend several knots set up in the rope as a backup...although I must admit I don't often use them because I do trust the SP.

Start heeding your own advice before you frickin' die. Always back up a solo belay device. Always. The life you save may be your own.


ricardol


Jan 14, 2004, 9:29 AM
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i searched for self-belay info on the net (and on print) and found almost nothing outside of pete's articles ..

be safe .. double and triple check everything ..

-- ricardo


skiclimb


Jan 14, 2004, 10:47 AM
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Yeah good point..infact that was the point I made.. ..I know it might bite me ...hell when jugging I rarely tie into the rope...I'm aware of the risk...

Other rules i occasionally break are...when wall climbing I don't always wear my helmet...I have been know to untie from the rope and do a little soloing....I have been seen on glaciers unroped...these are all rules not to be broken...Yet there are times when I remeber there are no rules and I felt safe doing them...

Interestingly in my couple decades of intense climbing and skiing of all types I have never suffered an injury worse than a sprained thumb and a few scrapes and bruises nor have any of my partners...By far the most important safety feature in climbing is your judgement and skill level in any particular situation.

Just being honest...


rope_burn


Jan 14, 2004, 10:57 AM
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I've never solo'd, but I was looking at the instructions for the silent partner and they left one thing out. How would you clean your pro when leading solo?


timpanogos


Jan 14, 2004, 10:59 AM
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solo is unique in that you "GET TO" climb, rap and then jug the route!

Fun fun fun (yes that's 3 times the fun - um work).


skiclimb


Jan 14, 2004, 11:00 AM
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On rapel or after when jugging back up the pitch...nice thing is you get to see each pitch 3 times and you get a great feel for how good your pro really is when your placing it and then cleaning it. :D


EDIT...the above guy beat me to the post lol


ricardol


Jan 14, 2004, 1:18 PM
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i think you'll find that almost everyone breaks a rule when they feel comfortable ..

.. most of the time we get away with it .. and when you dont, you become an entry on ANAM ...

-- ricardo

In reply to:
Yeah good point..infact that was the point I made.. ..I know it might bite me ...hell when jugging I rarely tie into the rope...I'm aware of the risk...

Other rules i occasionally break are...when wall climbing I don't always wear my helmet...I have been know to untie from the rope and do a little soloing....I have been seen on glaciers unroped...these are all rules not to be broken...Yet there are times when I remeber there are no rules and I felt safe doing them...

Interestingly in my couple decades of intense climbing and skiing of all types I have never suffered an injury worse than a sprained thumb and a few scrapes and bruises nor have any of my partners...By far the most important safety feature in climbing is your judgement and skill level in any particular situation.

Just being honest...


flamer


Jan 14, 2004, 1:55 PM
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In reply to:
By far the most important safety feature in climbing is your judgement and skill level in any particular situation.

Well said.
josh


tedc


Jan 14, 2004, 2:09 PM
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In reply to:
I've never solo'd, but I was looking at the instructions for the silent partner and they left one thing out. How would you clean your pro when leading solo?

You don't. You HAVE TO leave it. Where do you climb again??? :wink:

They didn't leave that out. They assume that if you can't figure that out you have no business using their device. Sort of a instruction manual safety feature. The Silent Partner is a TOOL for soloing not a license to solo.


dagawebb


Jan 15, 2004, 12:03 AM
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I have also serached the net for the setup for Solo Aiding system but cannot find anything. I suppose I should have been a little clearer on what I typed.

I am looking for the setup from wo to go. Ie the anchor setup, rope setup and then how you climb with the setup.

If any one can point in the direction of a thread that would be great.

Cheers


Partner holdplease2


Jan 15, 2004, 12:13 AM
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This is the kind of thing that you should be able to figure out the basics of with a pencil, some paper, and some thought.

If you try this and still find no possible way to do it, then you probably are not ready, ie, you don't have a solid enough grasp of the systems at your disposal.

However, if you try this, and think that you might have come up with a workable system, then go pursue information which helps you understand the mistakes you made in your system and whether or not you are on the right track. (of course, do this before you test it out, just in case ;)

I really believe (and I don't mean to be offensive)...if you cannot begin to figure this out on your own, you should not begin to to do it based on what someone else wrote.

Wishing you luck with figuring it out, as I don't know where you are on this continuum.

-Kate.


ricardol


Jan 15, 2004, 10:50 AM
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have you tried reading pete's articles .. there is enough info on how to aid solo there ..

-- ricardo


climbhigher


Jan 15, 2004, 11:12 AM
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I use the clove hitch method and silent partner. There's no info on rope soloing for good reason, it's just plain Dangerous. 3X's more work 4X's more scary and 5x's more DANGEROUS.
In my opinion, the clove hitch method is the safest. And the silent partner use's the clove hitch idea into it's design.


epic_ed


Jan 15, 2004, 11:36 AM
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In reply to:
I have also serached the net for the setup for Solo Aiding system but cannot find anything. I suppose I should have been a little clearer on what I typed.

I am looking for the setup from wo to go. Ie the anchor setup, rope setup and then how you climb with the setup.

If any one can point in the direction of a thread that would be great.

Cheers

Dude, we have given you some pretty good direction by pointing you to Pete's index. Read the info about solo systems and try stuff out as you feel ready. And heed Kate's advice about knowing when you may be trying to do something you're not ready to do. But you gotta start somewhere.

Ed


climbhigher


Jan 15, 2004, 1:39 PM
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GOOD Point on the "Not experience enough to do it rule" When it comes to rope soloing, My rule of advice is if you can't figure it out yourself you probably need a little bit more climbing experience before rope soloing.


ricardol


Jan 15, 2004, 2:05 PM
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i read this on another thread recently ..

wear brown pants ..

.. i was near soiling myself the first time i aid soloed .. -- and it was a cinchy C1 pitch ..

-- ricardo


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