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climbhigh2005


Jan 25, 2004, 4:36 PM
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Trad climbers in the south?
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My climbing partner and I are slowly started to get into trad, but before we buy any gear, we wanna go with someone and learn all about it... anyone willing to take us somewhere and teach us? thanks
Melissa


tenn_dawg


Jan 25, 2004, 5:04 PM
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How about chattanooga next saturday? I'm either going bouldering or trad climbing.

There's about a 75% chance that I'll be climbing. This is the most decisive I've been able to be this semester.

Josh, you reading this??? Lets do it.

Curt, feel like showing up and backing up your spray?

Jeff, Ice up that knee!

Travis<--climbing next weekend damnit


climbhigh2005


Jan 25, 2004, 5:40 PM
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Travis.. I was just getting ready to email you about trad climbing.. LOL get on ur sn


dirtineye


Jan 25, 2004, 8:24 PM
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Oh my Gawd, sport climbers teaching trad to boulder kids.


I'll be tradding this weekend for sure, but not at Twall. I would not recommed Twall for a first trad trip anyway. Lost Wall is a much friendlier approach and has some good beginner climbs right at the start of the climbing.

I can't think of a better first follow and then lead than guzzler. Then there are a lot of easy dihedrals on down the trail.

Melissa, have you and your friends placed any gear at all? Do you have helmets?


tenn_dawg


Jan 25, 2004, 8:38 PM
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Oh my Gawd, sport climbers teaching trad to boulder kids.


I'll be tradding this weekend for sure, but not at Twall. I would not recommed Twall for a first trad trip anyway. Lost Wall is a much friendlier approach and has some good beginner climbs right at the start of the climbing.

I can't think of a better first follow and then lead than guzzler. Then there are a lot of easy dihedrals on down the trail.

Melissa, have you and your friends placed any gear at all? Do you have helmets?

Lost wall is about an hour farther than Twall, and is also pretty chossy. The saving grace is that Rocktown is at the top of the hill. However, I did take a group from UT down there a couple years ago, and had a couple of em leading guzzler by the end of the day. That probably is the best introductory trad climb in the south. Too bad the rest of the wall sucks donkey balls.

I dunno. It might be a good idea. Georgia rock has never really struck me as worth the drive though. Why in the hell do you like it so much curt? An old hardmanbruiser such as yourself aught to be spending more time in NC. I can't WAIT until the day I take you to stone mountain. Heh heh heh.


whiteflash


Jan 25, 2004, 9:33 PM
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Ha, my first trad lead was on guzzler, and I agree on it being a good first one. Plus you can cheat the crux move(5.8) by using the ledge on the left.


dirtineye


Jan 25, 2004, 9:54 PM
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First of all, Travis you punk, you don'lt know crap about chossed wall if you thinkthe rest of it is poor quality. But that will change unless you are a blind as you are stupid, you slack jawed gap toothed drooling backwoods tennessee inbred hick who probably is playing his banjo minus a sstring and out of tune on the front porch wiht thre houndogs under it at this very minute..


Second, Um Travis, Have you led pitch 4 on the OR? Or P1 of the OR? I'd like to know what you thought about em.

Whiteflash, the step off block is not a cheat, that is what makes guzzler a 5.8 (maybe the climb is even a 7?) If you pull straight up the crack, then you have allegedly pulled a 5.10 move.

I'm sure Travis the BOLD will pull straight through though.

YOu got one thing right travis, and that is better than usual. Guzzler is a very nice beginner climb.


space_monkey


Jan 25, 2004, 11:02 PM
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Travis....T-wall......T-wall......T-wall
If you go there I will come down climb or sunset or even Suck creek, what the hell I'll climb anywhere down there.


climbhigh2005


Jan 26, 2004, 4:12 AM
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thanks guys... I cant go anywhere this weekend, but the next weekend anyone wanna meet up? we've learned how to place gear and Simon has cleaned some trad leads... Ray Coucher offered to take us to NC... he refuses to climb anywhere else unless he is teaching a class...


tenn_dawg


Jan 26, 2004, 5:38 AM
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First of all, Travis you punk, you don'lt know crap about chossed wall if you thinkthe rest of it is poor quality. But that will change unless you are a blind as you are stupid, you slack jawed gap toothed drooling backwoods tennessee inbred hick who probably is playing his banjo minus a sstring and out of tune on the front porch wiht thre houndogs under it at this very minute..


Second, Um Travis, Have you led pitch 4 on the OR? Or P1 of the OR? I'd like to know what you thought about em.

Whiteflash, the step off block is not a cheat, that is what makes guzzler a 5.8 (maybe the climb is even a 7?) If you pull straight up the crack, then you have allegedly pulled a 5.10 move.

I'm sure Travis the BOLD will pull straight through though.

YOu got one thing right travis, and that is better than usual. Guzzler is a very nice beginner climb.

Easy there #1 stunna. I actually went farther than I ususally do, and agreed with you a little bit. Then you had to go and ruin it with the same old "punk" comments. Don't you know that crowder used those up long ago?

Regardless, my question still stands. I've walked for more than an hour along the base of that wall, and it remained a vegitated 50' choss pile for the entirety. Perhaps our definitions of "choss" are different. Perhaps the claim that you've got a couple of FA's there has turned your glasses a faint tint of rose. Perhaps you're a big old bag of crazy. But of course this is all just speculation.

Okay, now about the OR. Ever finished it? That's pretty lame if you're bragging about BAILING off a proud climb. Sit down.

And I've done Guzzler exactly 2 times. The first I stemmed out left at the roof, and the second I pulled straight through. I was stronger the second time I did it. What's your point? Either way it's well protected with a #11 BD nut, and thus is trivial.

You should expand your horizons a little Curt. You are the e-pit-oh-me of the holier than thou trad climber, when as far as I can tell, you've never even figured out what sport climbing and bouldering are all about.

It's a shame the the natural progression of climbers these days are from the boulders to sport to trad. I was exactly the opposite of that, and I believe my motivations to persue the simpler aspects of climbing are well founded, and pure. Hard (and even some easy) bouldering is the essence of what climbing is. Reduce it to movement over rock. Remove the gear. All of it. (I suspect this is what is especially hard for you, curt. I've seen your 300 pound rack) And focus on nothing more than the absolute perfection of movement.

Bagging long multipitch routes sure is fun. But it's a damn 'glorified hike' once you stack on the logistics of even a moderate 5 pitch climb.

Hell, maybe it's my youth that allows me to be open minded enough to see the place of all aspects of climbing, and the motivations of most real climbers.

"Punk". Heh. I've been called worse.

Don't break a hip old man. See you saturday.

YEEEEEEEE-HAW!!!!!11


bumblie


Jan 26, 2004, 5:48 AM
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Second, Um Travis, Have you led pitch 4 on the OR? Or P1 of the OR? I'd like to know what you thought about em.

How'd you like the upper part of the climb?


styndall


Jan 26, 2004, 6:35 AM
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I would not recommed Twall for a first trad trip anyway. Lost Wall is a much friendlier approach and has some good beginner climbs right at the start of the climbing

I wouldn't really say the T-Wall is a bad trip. My first trad climb (followed) was Art up there, and it was just about perfect. And really, Lost Wall's only virtue, so far as I can tell, is its proximity to Rocktown. Hell, I've only ever visited Lost Wall as a quick stop on my way to the boulders.


Partner rrrADAM


Jan 26, 2004, 6:37 AM
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Travis... I'm back in Clemson, and went to Rumbling Bald with Nick and Blake, and they had great things to say about you, as I guess you guys all camped together out at Horse Pens.

DAMMIT !!! We gotta hook up bra !!! :!:


dirtineye


Jan 26, 2004, 7:00 AM
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Easy there #1 stunna. I actually went farther than I ususally do, and agreed with you a little bit. Then you had to go and ruin it with the same old "punk" comments. Don't you know that crowder used those up long ago?

When dealing wiht a true punk, even crowder can't use them all up hahaha.

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Regardless, my question still stands. I've walked for more than an hour along the base of that wall, and it remained a vegitated 50' choss pile for the entirety. Perhaps our definitions of "choss" are different. Perhaps the claim that you've got a couple of FA's there has turned your glasses a faint tint of rose. Perhaps you're a big old bag of crazy. But of course this is all just speculation.


IF you really walked for an hour and didn't see anything but choss at 50 feet or less, you need to stop tieing your shoe laces together LOL. Learn to hide your obvious jealousy a little better sonny boy. YOU won't know real choss till you climb "Bob Roterert and the Chossy Mmountain Boys", but you ain't near ready for that one.


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Okay, now about the OR. Ever finished it? That's pretty lame if you're bragging about BAILING off a proud climb. Sit down.

BRAGGING? No dear lad, that's what you do. I merely asked if you had led a couple of pitches and what you thought about em. Since you keep changing the subject and foaming at the mouth, apparently you have not led em. Yes, someone shoudl sit down, and it's you!


In reply to:
You should expand your horizons a little Curt. You are the e-pit-oh-me of the holier than thou trad climber, when as far as I can tell, you've never even figured out what sport climbing and bouldering are all about.

Travis you should talk about things you know. IF you ever get the nerve I'll put you on a few of the bouldering highballs I have enjoyed. I'm not much of a boulderer, but I do it a lot and started out boudlering. As for sport climbing, that's for little wennie boy wanna-be climbers like yourself.


In reply to:
It's a shame the the natural progression of climbers these days are from the boulders to sport to trad. I was exactly the opposite of that, and I believe my motivations to persue the simpler aspects of climbing are well founded, and pure. Hard (and even some easy) bouldering is the essence of what climbing is. Reduce it to movement over rock. Remove the gear. All of it. (I suspect this is what is especially hard for you, curt. I've seen your 300 pound rack) And focus on nothing more than the absolute perfection of movement.

Once more, the boulder problems are waiting for you, about 15 minutes down the road from me. After seeing you hangdog on a sport climb for about an hour (speaking of that climb, I climbied it at twice your age and didn't hangdog it at all, PUNK, hehehe), I wonder how you will do on boulder problems that are about 20 feet high and three times harder... SInce you go to Shyte Rock a bit, go loook up DCB11 and climb it, let me know what you think. I'm just going to assume that with all this talk of bouldering and being in the south and all, you will know what DCB stands for, and who it is referring to. HAHAHA.


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Hell, maybe it's my youth that allows me to be open minded enough to see the place of all aspects of climbing, and the motivations of most real climbers.

No, it's your youth that clouds your perspective, forcing you to think you know everything when you know nothing LOL.

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"Punk". Heh. I've been called worse.

Yes, and I'd call you worse but I don't wat to hurt your youthful feelings dear boy.

In reply to:
Don't break a hip old man. See you saturday.

I thought you said friday? And anyway, if I do break a leg, I'll still outclimb you.

We do need to work out the details. I think we ran off the little girl and her friends for this week. That's too bad, you know we trad climbers like to feast on the bones of young sport climbers and boulderers muahahahaha.
Better switch to PM Phone or messages, the natives think we are serious.


bigwallgumbie


Jan 26, 2004, 7:23 AM
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I basically learned to climb at lost wall and I gotta say, its a pile compared to t-wall. Lost walls got some nice routes, but at damn near every grade (5.7 for 5.7, 8 for 8, 9 for 9, and above) twall's overall quality blows chossed wall away. I remember a couple of the harder routes looking good (little league and gorillas that are pissed mabey?) but by the time i was climbing at that level I'ld fully moved to twall.

Bottom line: twalls taller, more sustained, more concentrated, less humid, prettier, more jammy (jam! Jam! JAM!), way more fun, a more quality experience and the approach is a casually warm up (if you don't believe that, get outa the south redneck).

RE: whitesides:

Been there, done that. The first pitch was a little hard for my effective first solo, kinda curious what it would feel like now (probably scare the shit outa me). The right 5.7 variation with the bendy flakes ("don't pull to hard or the gear will fall out dude!") was far more fun. Isn't the 4th pitch the easy 40' approach pitch to the cresent? I remeber that being pretty chill compared to the rest of the route. Hehe, I almost took a HUGE winger after kinda-hucking to a hold that was supposed to be a jug a couple feet under the belay bolts for the crux pitch. You really should go back and finish that route curt, topping out is a blast.


tenn_dawg


Jan 26, 2004, 8:18 AM
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Better switch to PM Phone or messages, the natives think we are serious.

Word. This sure is fun, but since no one is piling on, I can only assume that they feel sorry for you, and the in-till-ec-shoe-al thrashing you're taking.

Adam,

I've got so little free time, I can barely work in an evening wank session. After this week I think I might be able to get a little more, however. We'll see.

BWG,

Funny how me and OldClimber bitching brings the scc board guys outta the woodworks. Hahahaha. Good to see you around again.


tenn_dawg


Jan 26, 2004, 8:21 AM
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and the approach is a casually warm up (if you don't believe that, get outa the south redneck).

Have you ever seen how much gear he carries? If I brought a double rack of Giant cams and big bro's with me every where I went, I'd be complaining too.

OH, Don't forget the mirror image astro nuts that Metolious made in '97. Those are important! Hahahaha.


dirtineye


Jan 26, 2004, 8:22 AM
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Mike, no p 4 is the anklebreaker. p5 is the breezy one, fun even when running water. P 6 is the crescent pitch. MC and I decided that with a small waterfall running over the belay for the start of the crescent pitch and a party stuck on it above us that we would just bail, and it was a good idea cause two times rocks came rolling down as we rapped. they had a 'hold' or two break on em.

P1 of the OR was good fun, even when a little damp, but I'd much rather do it dry next time. I know once you said you went where that old aluminum hanger is, actually that is close to the way I had to go, following the dryer spots, and Scott Perkins said that way is a little harder than the true start to the OR, but the day we were there the easier part was running water.

I wanna go finish the thing, Maybe with Jeff Noffsinger as he wants to see if he can squeeze in a new route to the right of the OR somewhere.

Yes if you are in chattavegas Twall is better than chossed wall, but for a first time trad trip, I really think Chossy is better. Yes little league is a hell of a route, and there are a bunch like it down there, if you ever saw 5 star sex you'd put it on your list too. The nether world at choosed is a great area, but unless you take the roll down it is a very long walk. Pappy loves the place for a reason. There area couple of routes with roofs that have never gone free, in the 12 range, one is either batman or little league I think. We were gonna put Arno on em, but it was too wet that day.

For the record, there are chossy areas at LW but a lot of the rock there is as hard or harder than at Twall. There are a bunch of high quality leadable faces at LW, like the jedi, and soon to be a few more. The biggest problem with climbs at LW is that they don't get done enough to stay relatively clean. On the other hand, when you do a little dusting off, the rock is like velcro cause it does not get polished by use. One other good thing, there is not a chalk path to follow at LW ( sorry travis, you'll just have to figure it out on your own LOL)


tenn_dawg


Jan 26, 2004, 8:25 AM
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I don't need a chalk path to follow.

Following a CRACK sure is nice though!!! hahaha.


tradpuppy


Jan 26, 2004, 8:28 AM
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Bailing off the OR is about as scary as climbing it. :lol:
Mike B., go back to lurking :lol: :lol:


bumblie


Jan 26, 2004, 8:37 AM
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Bailing off the OR is about as scary as climbing it. :lol:

But not nearly as impressive. Some might even consider it a failure.


tradpuppy


Jan 26, 2004, 8:43 AM
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But not nearly as impressive.


Yeah, wtf ever, I personally don't have such requirements in my own aspirations.


the_crawler


Jan 26, 2004, 9:13 AM
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HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHH!
This is some funny sheot!
The SE climbers ranting finds a new forum!!!
Pissing match over the OR, you'll should be ashamed!


tradpuppy


Jan 26, 2004, 9:17 AM
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Ha! The crawler's crawled out of hiding!!!
Next, Pappy's gonna chime in.


dirtineye


Jan 26, 2004, 9:47 AM
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Bailing off the OR is about as scary as climbing it. :lol:

But not nearly as impressive. Some might even consider it a failure.

Some might, but not the smart ones LOL.
When you can go lead it wet with a party stalled above then you can talk. Nobody got up the last three pitches of the OR that day without help from above, the first party finished on traditions, the second had a line lowered by the first party and we bailed from the belay off the start of the 6th pitch.

Crowder and SP and JC considered it the smart thing to do, and since Those guys have done the OR to the point of nausea they just might know what they are talking about.

It was a good climb though, so I'll go finsih it this spring or summer.

Rapping off was a lot of fun. I think we went from the top of p5 to the belay for p3 via a little traverse at the end of the first rappel and then to the ground from there. Gotta love 60 meter doubles.

Crawler, it's not a pissing match, The only person pissing about it is bumbler. Travis wants to do the OR and this is his way of drumming up interest. Travis you know the deal is the new guy has to lead the first pitch right? It's a tradition.

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