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Stuff you could practice in the gym
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crackboy


Jan 25, 2004, 10:36 PM
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Stuff you could practice in the gym
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So the recent thread abou thte guy practicing lowerouts in the gym got me curious, what sort of stuff can you practice in the gym.

on top of that what can you do solo?

cheers


timpanogos


Jan 26, 2004, 7:00 AM
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1. High stepping on way over vertical has been interesting.
2. Roofs have been spanking me.
3. Jugging is way cardio-vascular.
4. cleaning loaded pro.
5. efficent aider handling (not used to those 4, 6' ladders after using russians)
6. efficent anchor switching from (I have been soloing in the gym)
a. lead to single rope rap
b. clean to double rope rap.
7. as pointed out in a different thread
a. aid to free
b. less aider, more free
c. moving up with less energy
d. cleaning with less energy

I've just never done a roof or a pendulum - wanted to try it.


Mostly it's a good workout - got weight to lose and endurance to gain.


dsafanda


Jan 26, 2004, 7:11 AM
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Just about anything short of hammering pins or copperheads. My wife took an aid climbing class at our local gym and they let her hook on the artificial holds and lead up a thin artificial crack on gear that even included cam hooks. It really depends more on what your gym will let you do than what can be done.


crackboy


Jan 29, 2004, 10:37 PM
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First Aid! woo hoo [In reply to]
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So finnally took my aiders out for a test drive for my "first" aid climb. granted it was in the gym, but i did learn a few things.

1. I definitely need to get a fifi hook. it was a bit of a pain to go up to the second step, tighten and then go back up to the to step, it would have been way easier if i could have left the daisies about the third step level clip in short with the fifi and then when i step up to the top step i would essentially be preset.

2, top stepping was not nearly as scary as i thought it would be, maybe because i was clipping off bolts but i was totally confident in leaning off my aiders. it was definitely a weird feeling, but i had to do it on pretty much every move up the bolts.

3. need to make sure i have the biners orientated better or do something different with the attachment, clip my daisy with aiders atached into the first bolt pull up on the daiy to tighten it, the biner twists and poomp the daisy unclips and off i almost go had i not been holding on to the quickdraw.

4. need to work on the best setup for testing pieces. since i was clipping bolts i wasn't bounce testing or anything. plus i was only using 1 pair of ladders. when i get out more i will have to work this into my sequence.

5. clusterf*ck. had some trouble keeping the ladders and daisies untwisted and on their right sides.


all in all it was a blast and it made me want to do more with it, though i thought i would feel comfortable alot faster, now i just realized i should work on it some more before heading out on the sharp end. so far so good though.


timpanogos


Jan 29, 2004, 10:56 PM
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I would be interested in hearing how others hookup to/with their aiders. Especially for using 3 aiders.

Crackboy, I do the following:

use a locking biner to connect your aiders to your adj daisy, of which the other end is girth hitched (or lockered) to your belay loop. I'm using 4 aiders, and use a single locker to tie two of them together with the daisy - this is very busy - 3 things tied together here.

One advantage of this setup, you can never drop your aiders.

If possible, put a 4th thing in here - a keyless "lead biner" - your clipping biner. My aiders are too tight to get two binners in them (one locker, one lead) thus I put my lead biner on the locking biner (and lose 3")

This does have the advantage of giving your lead binner more freedom to be twisted with out negitive effects

hope this helps


njari


Jan 30, 2004, 12:41 AM
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Lately, I've been consciously practicing my footwork in the gym. Try to climb without letting your feet make any sound. No tapping or dragging on the wall. Every placement should be exact and deliberate. It even helps to use old crack shoes (they aren't as forgiving as aggressive bouldering shoes).


crackboy


Jan 30, 2004, 11:01 AM
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i wasn't really worried about ropping an aider. how many times have you dropped a piece of gear that you were actively clipping/unclipping from your harness?

i liked the freedom and ease of the not having to unlock the biner everytime i moved my aiders up to the next placement. if i was using two pairs than i could see thebenefit of lockers, , but with one pair i think it wouldn't be as nice

if i was to swtich to three ladders which may happen, maybe have lockers on one aider each per aider and then have the floater on a nonlocking biner.

when my daisy unclipped, it unclipped from the biner not the piece, so it left everything attached,


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Jan 30, 2004, 11:29 AM
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flirtation and silverback machismo


yosrat


Jan 30, 2004, 2:53 PM
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F&%$ aid climbing in the gym! Park it on the couch through the winter and that first A3+ 5 months from now will be so much more memorable. Remeber only the good die young.


timpanogos


Feb 1, 2004, 8:13 AM
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Crackboy,

you misunderstood - you don't use the locking biner to move on - you use the keyless (non-locking) "lead" biner to move on.

The locker has your daisy/aiders tied together. you do not unlock it unless you want to totally remove your aiders from you daisies for some reason.


b_fost


Feb 1, 2004, 8:21 AM
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you're KIDDING me. you aid in a gym? isn't that...worse than normal gym climbing, if you can't FREE the routes?


timpanogos


Feb 1, 2004, 8:41 PM
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b-frost,

http://www.thequarry.net/...nt_page.pl?tour.html

Look in the left picture on the above site. - Look to the far right of the left picture.

That roof is the beginning of a 42' high route that is 55' long because of the overhangs. The top 1/3 of the route is not shown in the picture but is more overhung than the wall shown in the foreground where the guy is just pulling the small roof up onto the overhung face.

I'll lend you my aiders - heck I'll even belay you so you don't have to solo it. What do you suppose is harder - to climb it or clean it?

Come on ya hot little sport climber, put your muscle where your mouth is - give it a shot, then tell me how easy/dumb it is.

Solo aiding that lead wall (with a gallon of water, 12 QD's and personal gear on) is a super physical work out.

Working a 5.7 free off of solo aid with cloves is also an eye-opener! (the fifi trick works very nice BTW.)


crackboy


Feb 1, 2004, 10:09 PM
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why not aid in the gym. its dry and i don't need to lug much out for now considering i have done all of about two aid pitches.

tim.
i am currently using the Baba method which only uses two aiders, so i am constantly moving my aiders independantly of the daisies so if i had a locker on them it would be a pain. had my daisy unclip again from the biner as a moved up the other day. really need to either pay more attention to how its clipped or tape it to keep it orientated right.

so after my first attempt at aiding, i went ou tpicked up a fifi hook for my second shot. made things a little easier but the length was a bit off, i think i might try and pick up an adjustable one. do people modify their fifis? i thought i recalled reading where some people file down the hook to make it a smaller profile or something lke that.
definitely need to eith get ona crack, tired of doing the bolt ladders though the overhang i did the other night was interesting.


timpanogos


Feb 2, 2004, 7:11 AM
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Crackboy,

of course the gym is even less than c1 - you never have to worry about a piece blowing (except for your lead binner twisting off - I've never had this problem, so I'm not sure exactly what you are doing - but something is wrong).

In the real world, pieces will blow - hopefully on test, but sometimes otherwise.

If you do not have your aider (and hence your piece) somehow tethered to you, when that piece blows, you are now short an aider and the piece.

Bummer.

Chad


bigwalling


Feb 2, 2004, 9:25 AM
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Well I use the gym to get stronger for bouldering. Aid in there... good place to practice roofs. But hell wouldn't you like to pull down hard instead?


crackboy


Feb 2, 2004, 10:04 AM
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yea, thats why i only really aid one route per session after i am too tired to climb anything


timpanogos


Feb 2, 2004, 12:37 PM
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Bigwalling,

Yea, I enjoy spending some time working on my free climbing.

Interesting thing - but I guess not surprising, the muscles that are sore after a hard session of "pulling down" on that plastic is a whole different set than those used after solo aiding those severly overhung routes.

My legs, upper arms, chest, shoulders get worked harder aiding. Hands get worked for calus toughness (working nylon adj daisy, jug handles etc.)

hands and forearms muscles get worked harder free climbing - core gets worked hard on overhung. My legs never get sore free climbing - my upper body does not get worked nearly as much on free as on aid.

I know that come next May, the more I aid the stronger I'll be in the places I need most for my next adventure - and that will be pulling on daisies and jumars - and top stepping with a heavy rack - not pulling jugs in a sport harness with a few QDs on me for 100'.


bigwalling


Feb 2, 2004, 5:28 PM
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Oh Chad, you know you want to climb El Nino free.


stirnie


Feb 2, 2004, 5:35 PM
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I have been playing around with equalizing anchors and experimenting with different ones at my gym. I like it because you don't have to worry about getting good placements. There area also a lot of people there who can give you a helping hand when you have a question. I also practice belaying a second. I have also practiced up on my aid techniques.


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