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kansasclimber
Jan 27, 2004, 1:48 AM
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I wonder if the climbing world will ever hit a grade that is simply impossible. If you think about it, its gotta happen, doesn't it. Where is it scientificly impossible to hold on?? thoughts on this?
Stephen
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collegekid
Jan 27, 2004, 1:49 AM
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5.15b. Duh.
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curt
Jan 27, 2004, 1:53 AM
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In reply to: I wonder if the climbing world will ever hit a grade that is simply impossible. If you think about it, its gotta happen, doesn't it. Where is it scientificly impossible to hold on?? thoughts on this? Stephen
I don't know. I just discovered a new V18 boulder problem that will shatter all standards existing in the sport. I haven't done it yet though, so I can't tell you where my new secret project is.
When I finally do the thing, I'm going to have Hillary (from my posse) take pictures of me on it--so that I will be famous. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Curt
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mreardon
Jan 27, 2004, 2:19 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I wonder if the climbing world will ever hit a grade that is simply impossible. If you think about it, its gotta happen, doesn't it. Where is it scientificly impossible to hold on?? thoughts on this? Stephen I don't know. I just discovered a new V18 boulder problem that will shatter all standards existing in the sport. I haven't done it yet though, so I can't tell you where my new secret project is. When I finally do the thing, I'm going to have Hillary (from my posse) take pictures of me on it--so that I will be famous. :lol: :lol: :lol: Curt
Self-edited once I found out about certain word changes :)
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aklaunch
Jan 27, 2004, 2:37 AM
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i think since onsights are being made at grade 5.14, there is alot of room left for higher #s.
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socalbolter
Jan 27, 2004, 3:20 AM
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i would say no. some thoughts:
i've been climbing long enough to see things climbed that would have been deemed impossible when i first started.
it seems as though a new grade is added every few years.
unlike slabs, where the faces could possibly get so blank that they do not go, steeper routes usually have much larger features. it only makes sense that these angles could and would be climbed using much smaller features at a higher grade.
there's also the "stamina" approach to rating a climb. for example a 100-foot long route that has mostly mid 5.13 climbing would likely be a contender for the 5.14 grade. since single moves of 5.14 or harder have been done it would be feasible for multiple moves, and even the majority of the moves on a route, to be done at this level. a climb like that would likely be a contender for a high 5.15 or even a 5.16 rating. the same logic would suggest that we could then see a stamina rating of 5.17 or 5.18 or ???
i would imagine that as the highest grade continues to advance that those climbing at that level will become more and more specialized in a certain type of climbing, angle of steepness, length of route or type of rock
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Jul 30, 2005, 11:58 PM
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when nothing but a horizontal piece of glass is left. then everything past is impossible.
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kiwi_raven
Jul 31, 2005, 12:20 AM
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In reply to: when nothing but a horizontal piece of glass is left
And after that there's always suction cups that can be used....
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ajkclay
Aug 3, 2005, 3:50 AM
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In reply to: When I finally do the thing, I'm going to have Hillary (from my posse) take pictures of me on it--so that I will be famous. :lol: :lol: :lol: Curt
Curt, you have a posse? :lol:
Are you starting to buy beanies and prana t-shirts too?
What is the world coming to?
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grimpiperx
Aug 3, 2005, 5:05 AM
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Yes, but something that will push bouldering on for awhile, and will be sick to witness, is the evolution of 2nd 3rd 4th(etc.) generation dynos.
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veganboyjosh
Aug 3, 2005, 5:31 AM
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In reply to: when nothing but a horizontal piece of glass is left. then everything past is impossible.
what about when the glass is past horizontal? so the climber becomes inverted, and climbs towards the ground as they move "forward/up" the route?
(there was a thread about this a while ago, regarding roofs that were past horizontal, with some pretty good pics, someone else will have to dig it up...)
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kachoong
Aug 3, 2005, 7:30 AM
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Now, if the earth were to slow rotating, then I think all the grading systems would need to be re-evaluated.... :P
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josephgdawson
Aug 3, 2005, 7:43 AM
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I propose that the grade scale end at 5.20. I think it is safe to assume that no one can free climb a 90 degree blank wall. I think the rating of a 90 degree blank wall should be 5.20. Therefore, the rating system would have to end there.
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bigjonnyc
Aug 3, 2005, 11:32 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: when nothing but a horizontal piece of glass is left And after that there's always suction cups that can be used....
That's Aid.
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gat
Aug 3, 2005, 1:17 PM
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No, the grading scale will never end. There will always be someone claiming that their new testpiece has taken it one grade further. It has to keep going, otherwise sport climbers and boulderers will have nothing to talk about :wink:
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dynosore
Aug 3, 2005, 3:09 PM
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As long as people keep linking 5.1(x) or V(x) problems/routes together and calling them 5.1(x+1) or V(x+1), the scale is open ended. Whatever happened to grading routes/problems on their hardest move? If duration is a factor, how come multipitch 5.10 routes aren't 5.11? Think I'll go "link" a few 5.9 pitches and call it 5.10c. After all, 5.9 is pretty hard for my sorry self.
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boadman
Aug 3, 2005, 4:03 PM
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Actually, there are many 5.11 pitches at places like Indian Creek, Devil's Tower, and the Red River Gorge that have no move harder than 5.10. They get the .11 grade because they're so sustained. Multipitch doesn't count because you get to rest inbetween pitches. Now, if you get a really long rope, and link a 15 pitch 5.10 with no ledgy rests into one pitch, I think you could call it 5.11 if you really wanted to. It'd be a little silly though.
In reply to: As long as people keep linking 5.1(x) or V(x) problems/routes together and calling them 5.1(x+1) or V(x+1), the scale is open ended. Whatever happened to grading routes/problems on their hardest move? If duration is a factor, how come multipitch 5.10 routes aren't 5.11? Think I'll go "link" a few 5.9 pitches and call it 5.10c. After all, 5.9 is pretty hard for my sorry self. |
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