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stick233


Jan 29, 2004, 7:04 AM
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Longest 5.7. 5.8 route
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Anyone have any ideas as to the longest trad route around 5.7? I was wondering if there are any 2000 ft. lines... specifically in the southwest, but curious overall.

I've already done Royal Arches, which is pretty long, but would like more long easy trad routes for practice...


telluryan


Jan 29, 2004, 7:07 AM
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check the red rocks, nv guidebooks. I know there are a quite a few there...


herm


Jan 29, 2004, 7:29 AM
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The Sierra Crest has many long ridges at moderate grades, but that go on for literally miles. The 5.9 Pallisade traverse is nearly ten miles long. The Sawtooth Ridge is 5.8 and about two and a half miles. The Mathes Crest is a mile long 5.7, the East Ridge of Humphries is a 6,000 foot 5.2.

None of these routes are easy, most folks bail.......


stick233


Jan 29, 2004, 7:32 AM
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herm,

do you mean humphries as in flagstaff? i am not familiar with these areas. do you know where i can research these better?

as far as mileage, is that hiking with a bit of climbing? more adventure climbing? i'm intrigued!


herm


Jan 29, 2004, 7:36 AM
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Re: Longest 5.7. 5.8 route [In reply to]
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The Sierra Crest in California. Distances are actual climbing[class 3 and up. Some are more sustained than others]. Look at a guide book or my website for obscure stuff, pics of Humphries.....


crotch


Jan 29, 2004, 10:47 AM
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Re: Longest 5.7. 5.8 route [In reply to]
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In reply to:
The Sierra Crest has many long ridges at moderate grades, but that go on for literally miles. The 5.9 Pallisade traverse is nearly ten miles long. The Sawtooth Ridge is 5.8 and about two and a half miles. The Mathes Crest is a mile long 5.7, the East Ridge of Humphries is a 6,000 foot 5.2.

None of these routes are easy, most folks bail.......

More about the Sierra:

Humphries is extra-classic and you prob. won't see anyone else. N. Ridge of Lone Pine Peak has a lot (mile?) of climbing, none harder than 5.5 or so. E. Buttress of Whitney is prob. 10 pitches if you pitch it out at 5.8. Mt. Conness. Moon Goddes Arete on Temple Crag. The aretes on Split Mt. (haven't done Split yet).

BTW, you should be SOLID at 5.8 for most of these endeavors just becase of the routefinding problems, time spent on approach, descent, and the altitude.

Red Rocks:

Beulah's Book to Solar Slab, Johny Vegas to Solar Slab, Chrymson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows (to the top of the Mescalito) are all >10 pitch affairs. If you can handle a bit of 5.9, then hit up Epinephrine.

These are just two places. There are plenty more.


bubba


Jan 29, 2004, 10:52 AM
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The Bugaboos have some classic routes. Bugaboo Spire is 10+ pitches of 5.7.
Not exactly in your neck of the woods though.


iamthewallress


Jan 29, 2004, 11:10 AM
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These in Yosemite come close to your requirements:

Royal Arches SF of North Dome link up.

Snake Dike...with the slabs at the top gets you that high.

Reg. Route on Fairview Dome, very short and aidable 5.9 crux, the rest is more moderate

Munginella/Selaginella link up on 5 open books.

Tenaya Peak. 14 pitches. Book says 5.5, but you can deviate a bit and make it harder. This is one of the most beautiful routes I've been on.


Partner chugach001


Jan 29, 2004, 11:44 AM
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It's not the longest, but from what I know there is a 1,000' 5.7 at Nelson Rocks in WV. It follows a long ridgeline.

Check out the R&I article this summer on classic technical ridge crests out west.

Also - go to www.supertopo.com and type in 5.7 (or whatever) and it will give you a list of routes at that grade.


bumblie


Jan 29, 2004, 11:45 AM
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In reply to:
The Bugaboos have some classic routes. Bugaboo Spire is 10+ pitches of 5.7.
Not exactly in your neck of the woods though.

The SE ridge of Snowpatch is 5.6, 17 pitches.... I think.


timstich


Jan 29, 2004, 11:59 AM
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Crestone Needle in the Sangre De Cristo range has about a 2000 ft. 5.6 on it. It's in one of the 14er guidebooks. I can't remember the title off hand.


hendicrimpin


Jan 29, 2004, 12:07 PM
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rob you should head up to tuolomne and hit up cathedral peak (anywhere from 5.5-5.8 routes and 5-6 pitches) - it has fun, relaxed climbing with a great summit and stellar view. Mt. Conness has i don't know how many pitches(never done it), but i know its more than 7 or 8 pitches and supposed to be good. Have you been hitting up the superstitions or mt lemmon natural lines lately??? Sounds like you're looking for an adventure...call me if you find one. :D


brianinslc


Jan 29, 2004, 12:15 PM
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East Ridge of the Grand...I seem to recall belaying 20 pitches...but, shoot, its only 5.6ish...

SW Ridge of Snowpatch in the Bugaboos...12 pitches.

South Face Direct w/ garnet traverse on Nez Pierce in the Tetons...9 pitches (? can't remember).

Brewer's Buttress on Castle Mtn...9 pitches? Only 5.6 too...(maybe a bit hard for a 5.6 though).

East Ridge of the Wolf's Head, starting w/ the Buckingham variation, Wind Rivers. 9 pitches?

Jubulant Song, Windy Peak, Red Rocks. 7 pitches?

The Collin's guide for wyoming crags lists a 5.8 on Lankin Dome that is around 7 or so pitches...but...homey don't think its a 5.8...

Brian in SLC


rhei


Jan 29, 2004, 1:04 PM
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I'll second brianinslc's recommendation to head to the Tetons. There are lots of long, moderate routes there. Buckingham Ridge on the Middle Teton is worth looking at. A couple of less commonly climbed but fun (and easier) long routes are SW Buttress on Disappointment and the Otter Body on the Grand.


thegreytradster


Jan 29, 2004, 1:13 PM
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It's in your neck of the woods and good time of year to do it though not as long (and easier) than most listed.
SE Arette on Baboquivari. It was a lot of fun.

Crescent Crack or Cherry Jam, Table Mountain (6-7) pitches. I've wanted to do them. Worthwhile?


steelmonkey


Jan 29, 2004, 1:33 PM
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In reply to:
It's in your neck of the woods and good time of year to do it though not as long (and easier) than most listed. SE Arete on Baboquivari. It was a lot of fun.

Yup, fun route. The approach and descent makes up for any disappointment you might have that the day will be too short. :D

In reply to:
Crescent Crack or Cherry Jam, Table Mountain (6-7) pitches. I've wanted to do them. Worthwhile?

Haven't made it yet, but have a friend that's done Cherry Jam. Said it was cool. Have heard Crescent is also worthwhile. Approach is probably the biggest roadblock...it's pretty horrendous. Also now that Pusch Ridge section is closed part of the year for bighorn sheep lambing season. Think maybe you can get around that by approaching Table via the south side up a canyon who's name escapes me a the moment. Up, up, up, then rap to the base of the route and climb back out.

Couple other long routes in AZ like you're talking about that I can think of...

    Elephant Head in southern Arizona is supposed to be 1000 feet of 5.6.
    Elephant Dome in Mendoza Canyon has Elephant Trunk (5.6) that's about 1000 feet long (lots of easy pitches). That was fun.


Probably some long stuff in the Sandias that might be worth a go.

Also, over in Las Cruces there are lots of long adventure routes that aren't rated too hard. We did a nice 6 pitch easy route (5.7ish) up the Citadel and there's a 14 pitch 5.6 route on Sugarloaf over on the East side. That one's got a fairly large adventure factor due to lack of pro, but it's a slab, so maybe not so bad. Big approach...did it once and got blown out of there. Check here for more info on that: http://www.nmsu.edu/...amato/sugarloaf.html


thegreytradster


Jan 29, 2004, 1:43 PM
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Elephant Trunk is almost straight across the freeway from my folks place in Green Valley. Almost did it about 7-8 years ago with my kid but the weather turned shi**y. Forgot about that one. Have to go back and get that one too. Neat approach, FWD onto the slab step out and start. What's the story on the cables in the route description?


thegreytradster


Jan 29, 2004, 1:46 PM
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I remember hearing something many years ago about a long route (25+ pitches?) called Darkstar. I don't remember the location though. Also, there were apparently some pitches that had 4th class scrambling involved. Can anyone here shed some light on a location & more detailed info? Is the route high quality?

You are proabably refering to the route that is to the right of Sun Ribbon Arrete on Temple Crag. I think it is in the Fidler/Moyner book.


steelmonkey


Jan 29, 2004, 1:48 PM
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Crestone Needle in the Sangre De Cristo range has about a 2000 ft. 5.6 on it. It's in one of the 14er guidebooks. I can't remember the title off hand.

Ellingwood Arete (Ellingwood Ledges) is the route you're probably thinking of...great line, very cool location. Probably more like 5.7 (pitch near the top). It's one of the 50 Crowded Climbs of North America. More info and lots of trip reports here: http://www.naclassics.com/...bs/crestone/beta.htm


steelmonkey


Jan 29, 2004, 2:00 PM
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Elephant Trunk is almost straight across the freeway from my folks place in Green Valley.

For the record, I think you mean Elephant Head (across from Green Valley). Haven't done it, but it's on the list to knock off some day. Probably more of a mountaineering experience than anything. I found some pics on a web site just kinda digging around once. Try googling and you'd probably run across it. The Elephant Trunk route is over in Mendoza Canyon, kinda sorta northeast of where Babo is located. Also fun and a ton of easy climbing.


crackjammer


Jan 29, 2004, 2:12 PM
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1. Complete Northwest Ridge from the Valley floor on the Grand Teton - 6,100 feet high, max. 5.7
2. Complete North or Northeast Ridge from the Desert Floor on Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra. Both about 7,000 vertical feet to mid 5th class.
3. Complete Northwest Ridge on Mount Logan, North Cascades. Grade V 5.8, almost 3 miles of ridgeline.
4. Direct North Pillar on Mount Slesse in British Columbia. Grave V 5.8, 27 pitches.


thegreytradster


Jan 29, 2004, 3:19 PM
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Thanks, Steelmonkey. I've got unfinished business with three more 14'ers in Cal this year then its back to AZ :wink:

Dark Star is as previously mentioned grade V 5.10 A0 25-30 pitches. I remember reading somewhere that the FA was done in two stages with an escape/continuation from a ledge system somewhere about halfway up, (maybe that was Barefoot Buynam).

Moon Goddess 5.7 IV 10+ or so pitches was great. Good rock (by alpine standards) Sun Ribbon 5.9, 18 pitches (and a tyrolean) has a big reputation (haven't done it yet).

Beautiful camping by the lake, short approach from there, and a fairly straightforward descent to Contact Pass (one single rope rap) for all three routes.


takeme


Jan 29, 2004, 5:27 PM
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In the Black Canyon there is a route called "Born For Adventure", grade IV 5.8, close to 2000 feet long. I don't know how "easy" it is, though--I know of 2 parties who climbed much harder than 5.8 who've been benighted on it. OK, just for the record, I'm NOT recommending it!

Perhaps much more doable, in Colorado, would be the link-up of Stettner's Ledges (5.7+) to upper Kieners (5.3 or so, with lots of 4th class) on the East Face of Long's Peak. This would give you 1500 feet of decent enough rock climbing in a spectacular alpine setting. There are several other possible link-ups in the 5.7-5.8 range on the east face of routes which are more obscure (e.g. the Window, Zumie's Thumb, etc.), but would give you 1500' or more, not to mention a bit of adventure. Elsewhere in the Park are plenty of excellent 1000' lines in the 5.7-8 range. Petite Grepon, Culp-Bossier, N.Ridge of Spearhead, S.Ridge of Notchtop, NW of Sharkstooth, etc. Any route in the Park requires competence at "adventure" climbing, and thus perhaps a comfort zone as far as your own ability is concerned.

In the Flatirons near Boulder, you'll find 5.6-5.7 routes of over 1000' feet, although so low angle that they don't feel that big.

Charles


traddad


Jan 29, 2004, 9:21 PM
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Everest?


timstich


Jan 29, 2004, 9:30 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Crestone Needle in the Sangre De Cristo range has about a 2000 ft. 5.6 on it. It's in one of the 14er guidebooks. I can't remember the title off hand.

Ellingwood Arete (Ellingwood Ledges) is the route you're probably thinking of...great line, very cool location. Probably more like 5.7 (pitch near the top). It's one of the 50 Crowded Climbs of North America. More info and lots of trip reports here: http://www.naclassics.com/...bs/crestone/beta.htm

Aye, that would be the line. Thanks for the link. I've visited that site before, but never to see the pictures of that route. Heard there was a helicopter extraction from that route not too long ago. The book I read about the route is Roach's "Colorado's Fourteeners". Great read for the bedside table. Sometimes I can't get to sleep after puting that one down, however.

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