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What is your favorite trad route, and why?
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jetace


Mar 20, 2002, 5:14 PM
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What is your favorite trad route, and why?
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My favorite, thus far, was Super Slab at Smith Rock. I've only done a few trad climbs, but that one had so much variety for placement, it was really a good route for people learning how to trad climb!

Rock On


radistrad


Mar 20, 2002, 5:24 PM
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Ah yes I have done Super Slab, great climb.

My favorite single pitch trad climb is Lunatic Fringe 5.10c, Yosemite Valley.

I love this climb. It start out with 30' of 5.7 hands. Then you get to a small crack that is the first crux, thin fingers to thin hand. This leads into enjoyable jamming with one fist jam. From here there is another 10c crux throught some flakes, this takes you to the last section, beautiful hands to a thin crack and the anchors.
If you ever get to the valley this is a must do on the 5.10 crack circuit.


Partner rrrADAM


Mar 21, 2002, 4:43 AM
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3rd Pillar Of Dana Mountain located just outside of Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne (East) Entrance.

It's a 7 pitch 5.10b overlooking Mono Lake. To quote the locals... "If it saw more traffic, it would be in 50 Classic Climbs as it's better than the Regular Route on Fairview Dome and South Crack up DAFF Dome combined." (Both in 50 CC's)

It has a 2 1/2 hour approach, hence the low traffic.




rrrADAM



[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-03-21 04:44 ]


crswallrat


Mar 21, 2002, 11:08 AM
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If you can catch it without a huge lineup, my favorite would have to be Nutcracker, in Yosemite. Not only does it have a sweet history (put up by RR with nuts only) but the climbing is way fun but not hard. Each pitch is fun and you just have to love a climb that you have to build your own anchor after each pitch. And the mantle move on the last pitch makes you feel like a hero (provided you don't botch the next section, pitch off the whole thing and break some bones). Yeah, Nutcracker rocks.

[ This Message was edited by: crswallrat on 2002-03-21 11:08 ]


metoliusmunchkin


Mar 21, 2002, 1:24 PM
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The first outdoor route I ever did, was (at the time) quite a difficult 5.5, where I seconded an experienced trad climber. At this point in time I completely forget the name of this route, though I do know that it is situated at Rattle Snake Point, Ont. It is a beautiful climb, ranging between either 90, and 120 ft. in height. A truly amazing scene once reaching the top!


climbjs


Mar 21, 2002, 2:10 PM
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I like El Matador on Devil's Tower, Wyoming. I've seen it rated .10d/.11a, but the climbing itsself is not difficult. It is super exposed and brutal on your legs.


jcclimber


Mar 21, 2002, 2:23 PM
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I would have to say Wartleys(sp?) Revenge at Smith Rock. It is an 11a that is pretty exceptional!

Jake out


sizzlechest


Mar 21, 2002, 3:31 PM
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the equinox in j-tree
no comment and super crack in the gunks
anything in the bugaboo's
fastest gun in the adirondacks
astroman
anything on the cookie cliff
scared peaches at lake louise

[ This Message was edited by: sizzlechest on 2002-03-21 15:50 ]


climb512


Mar 21, 2002, 3:33 PM
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Being fairly new to climbing(less than a year). I have been limited to the New York and Ontario area. My favorite lead to date has been at the Gunks, Madam G's Wulst. It goes a 5.6 and is only 3 pitches, but it has a hanging belay,a small overhang at the finish,overall a nice route. I thought it better than High Exposure.


Partner rrrADAM


Mar 22, 2002, 7:23 AM
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sizzle...

That's your answer to "What's your favorite and why?"


agrauch


Mar 22, 2002, 9:43 AM
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For sentimental reasons, my favorite is Main Liner, 5.9, at Lumpy Ridge. This was my first big route and my first 5.9 lead.

Main Liner is also one of the best moderates at Lumpy and is a must do. The climbing is varied and the stemming crux is fun. Only downside is that it can be crowded on the weekend.


pbjosh


Mar 22, 2002, 10:53 PM
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My favorite(s) is a tie here:

O'Kelley Crack - simply gorgeous to look at and wonderful to climb, nice and clean and sustained. Sweetest hands ever. Makes Illusion Dweller seem like choss!

Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn - The moves onto and off of Traitor Horn are classic and the position is completely unrivaled...

Close but not quite favorite are Bearded Cabbage and More Monkey Than Funky... awesome moves, kind of "sensationalist" favorites but I'm a sucker for wild moves like that.


Partner rrrADAM


Mar 23, 2002, 7:23 AM
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Did you lead More Monkey Than Funky ??? If you did, you have "big balls of steel" man, my hat is off to you.

I tried that route on TR a couple years ago, and mine were more like "raisins".




rrrADAM

[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-03-23 08:08 ]


greatgarbanzo


Mar 23, 2002, 7:57 AM
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I did the FA (arguably... I am the only one that I know of to have free climb the whole thing no falls) of this beautifull crack some years ago... I named it "LaPoderosa".

This is a perfect hands to fist crack on granite. The climbing is short (100 feet) but it goes through two excelent undercling roofs.

There is a bitching 1 day hike of approach (totally worth it). The route is located over 12,400 feet.

Definitely My Favorite.


sizzlechest


Mar 23, 2002, 10:02 PM
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sorry rrr i was sort of tired when i responded, those are all favorites because of background scenary, spectacular natural lines, and just super fun to climb


chirp


Mar 23, 2002, 10:57 PM
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Gotta be Crimson Chrysalis, right here in Red Rocks. [III] Superb line, 9 great pitches up a huge pillar. Unfortunately due to these qualities and more there is usually a hideous queue to get on it during peak season.


apollodorus


Mar 23, 2002, 11:35 PM
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Regular route on Fairview Dome, Tuolumne. The crux is right off the ground, and then it's just continuous crack and knob climbing that's not too hard. Just a bunch of great pitches strung up a marvelous rock. It's like the Royal Arches big brother. When the Valley is 100 degrees, you'll want a windbreaker for this one. You can almost tie the belayer into the car bumper for the first pitch, it has that short of an approach. Recent beta says to get a really early start (like, in the dark with lamps) to avoid getting stuck behind another party.


Partner rrrADAM


Mar 24, 2002, 2:57 AM
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appolo... That's on my tick list for this Summer.


crackaddict


Mar 24, 2002, 6:42 AM
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The regular route on Fairview Dome is definatly on of my favorites also. Did it last summer in June. Great views and killer ledges. We got there first but only saw one other party on route. Man those french can climb fast. These two guys past us and probably did the climb in 4 hours car to car.
Later


radistrad


Mar 24, 2002, 7:59 AM
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Fairview dome is a great route. My recomendation for this route is to start early.
I like this climb becasue its long, fairly easy and its in Tuolumne.

I've done this route twice, I plan on returning to it this summer. We have been working on our trad all of 2001 and all of this year. Hopefully we'll be the ones doing it in 4 hours this summer.


pbjosh


Mar 24, 2002, 9:03 PM
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rrradam - no I haven't led More Monkey Than Funky yet. I wouldn't be particularly scared too, however. I feel like the jams are so solid I could eat a sandwhich hanging from them. I am planning on leading it, but not quite yet, I'd like to be reasonably confident I can get up it cleanly (which I didn't do the one time I TR'd it and which I think I have at best a 50/50 chance of now) before I try, because if you blow the lip of the roof (by far the crux) you're hanging in space and it's probably a bitch to get back on, it might be easier to lower. Plus there'll be heinous rope drag on lead.

Doesn't mean it isn't a way way way cool route though. I'm not sure why people are so scared of it. I think if you can really jam 9 or 10a you can climb the roof, you just might not turn it when it goes down to super burly thin hands and the feet get really awkward under the roof where you can't see them any more and then you have to cut your feet and paste 'em above the lip - it's definitely way burly. Thus the name of the route.

..josh


apollodorus


Mar 24, 2002, 10:31 PM
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Well, RRRADAAM,

As long as you'll be in the neighborhood, you should also do Cathedral Peak, and then it's little bro, Eichorn Peak. Maybe solo.

Tuolumne will rewrite your book.

Fab. Fabulous. Amazing. The feldspar crystals will become part of your mind. I swear.


Partner rrrADAM


Mar 25, 2002, 4:08 AM
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apollo... You don't have to sell Tuolumne to me, it's my favorite place in Ca, as I've climbed there plenty. I like it much better than The Valley.



rrrADAM


felixthecat


Mar 25, 2002, 5:28 PM
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its really true about starting at the crack of dawn to get on fairview/regular route. luckily i live an hour away so if we got there too late we could just walk across the street to daff dome and do some routes there.
but i would have to say that my favorite trad route is serenity crack in the valley. i just thought it was such a beautiful and aestetic line despite the pin scars on the first pitch. and the gain of elevation along with the views and splendid hand and rings jams was awesome. my favorite pitch would have to the last pitch. its awesome 10a lieback flake which is so bomber to the crux of the climb; 10d finger crack. that was the only part i didnt like as much cause there was no way i could lead it,the 10d. i tried and fell so i french freed it but i plan on returning back this summer and completing it the right way. anyway ive done it twice and i am still stoked on it.


bigbouda


Apr 12, 2002, 12:11 PM
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Montagne d'Argent (silver mountain) M&M crack 5.8, beautiful trad hand crack, no rest and steep all along. Yummmmmm M&M's.

[ This Message was edited by: bigbouda on 2002-04-12 12:47 ]

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