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Climbing trad vs sport (rating)
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bittersweet_climbing


Jan 30, 2004, 8:53 PM
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Climbing trad vs sport (rating)
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I always read where people can climb harder on sport than they can on trad. Is this a mental game? Are you worried about falling on your piece? I have climbed a little trad, no rating, and I wasn't worried about the gear pulling, but just was worried about falling like I always am.


oudinardin


Jan 30, 2004, 8:54 PM
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In reply to:
I always read where people can climb harder on sport than they can on trad. Is this a mental game? Are you worried about falling on your piece? I have climbed a little trad, no rating, and I wasn't worried about the gear pulling, but just was worried about falling like I always am.
Ahhh, I can see where this is headed.


bittersweet_climbing


Jan 30, 2004, 8:57 PM
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This isn't meant to head anywhere. Just a simple question that I have been thinking about for a while


oudinardin


Jan 30, 2004, 9:01 PM
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In reply to:
I always read where people can climb harder on sport than they can on trad. Is this a mental game? Are you worried about falling on your piece? I have climbed a little trad, no rating, and I wasn't worried about the gear pulling, but just was worried about falling like I always am.
Ahhh, I can see where this is headed. :roll:


drkodos


Jan 30, 2004, 9:05 PM
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Re: Climbing trad vs sport (rating) [In reply to]
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Some people feel more comfortable "pushing the grade" when they are climbing some bolted sport routes. It may have to do with any number of issues, safety due to potential gear/bolt failure may be one of them.

In theory, grading that is dependant on the type of climbing difficulty that will be encountered on a given climb dictates that sport routes and trad climbs with the same grade will have the same difficulty of movement. Many people do not feel this is the case, but it may be more than simply stating that sport routes are graded softer.

Grades in general are in a state of flux at some areas, and from area to area, even climb to climb at some areas, seem to lack consistency. At times, grades are deceptive, but more often that not, grading discrepancies is the result of different rock type, movement, and techniques required. Adjust accordingly per individual as per height, weight, reach, etc....

In the ends, grades are designed to be an "abstract" of what level of difficulty a climber should expect on a given climb. A guide, a template, a ruler, of sorts from which to judge oneself to a particular climb.

The most common mistake is to use the numbers as a way of comparison for oneself to other individuals, but that is when the fun starts.....


curt


Jan 30, 2004, 9:16 PM
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Re: Climbing trad vs sport (rating) [In reply to]
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Here you go.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=30185

Seven pages of comments on the same topic, from last July--enjoy.

Curt


oudinardin


Jan 30, 2004, 9:37 PM
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The little Pebble Wraslar is the man. :wink:


dirtineye


Feb 1, 2004, 10:09 PM
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THis thread is pointless and stupid, just like sport climbing.


simplistic


Feb 1, 2004, 10:15 PM
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There is a great name of a climb at Skaha, it is called "sport climbing is neither".


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