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joemor
Mar 21, 2002, 12:57 AM
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hello
im bout to buy some cams and was thinking that if i knew the cam that were left behind most often it "might" give me and every one else an idea of what cams are regulary jamed. thus id buy the ones that dont get lost so regulary.
this was the logic a gear salesman told me about when discussing cams. he recomended bd's as they had a larger range and less chance of over camming.
cheers
joe
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radistrad
Mar 21, 2002, 1:11 AM
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The cams I have bootied, 3 BD's 1 WC.
Its BS that camalots are less prone to being over cammed, any cam can be over cammed.
The BD's do have a beter range than most cams.
I recommend BD's and Ailens. I dont like the BD's below .5, I use Ailens for the smaller size.
Why do I like the Ailens over the smaller BD's?
First the BD's have that long trigger wire that tends to catch on everythin and it is more prone to breaking. The Ailens dont have this problem.
The Ailens have a narower head width than the BD's, they fit in shallower places.
Hope it helps, I bet you can find a lot of info on this website about cams.
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greyghost
Mar 21, 2002, 3:32 AM
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I think you have good intentions with your question. You cannot take a booty survey and try to relate that to how often a particular brand of cam gets stuck though. Cams do not get themselves stuck people get them stuck. While some are better than others you will get a different opinion for everyone. A better question maybe be what cams have you had the most success with. I buy BD
Don't stop the scream
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addiroids
Mar 21, 2002, 4:50 AM
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I have bootied a RED and Yellow Metolius TCU, and a #2 Camalot. All were FORGOTTEN or rapped off, none were over cammed. I have just been lucky. But I too would go with BD and Aliens if I were buying cams again. And maybe Rock Empire (www.rockempire.com) for a second set of cams.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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conkdg
Mar 21, 2002, 6:18 AM
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I've seen some WC friends jammed up good, but with the inverted lobes and twisted metal, you could tell whoever left them there was not about to let somebody else take them as booty... they make nice fixed pro though.
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jcclimber
Mar 21, 2002, 10:25 PM
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I would go with BD, Metolius, or Aliens. All cams can over cam though, so even BD's double axle isn't a guarantee that your cam won't get stuck!
Jake out
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treyr
Mar 21, 2002, 10:28 PM
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A 2cam and a metolius fat cam
Trob
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mpepe
Mar 22, 2002, 5:56 AM
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NO brand is more or less suseptible to being stuck. Any bumbly can fix a cam. My personal prefrence are Metolius and Aliens. I like the Metolius cause they are a little lighter than a comparable BD or WC, and that means I can carry more cams for the same weight. Their range isn't quite as large though. Aliens rock if you climb old beat out routs. My $.02
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joemor
Mar 27, 2002, 3:51 AM
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thanks for the info,
i think i will start with BD's and go from there
thanks again
joe
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smithclimber
Mar 27, 2002, 4:26 AM
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Greyghost and Mpepe hit the nail on the head.
It's not the cam's fault it is stuck. It's the user's fault. It's a poor artist who blames the brushes, right?
I've bootied a #4 WC Friend and a #1.5 Flexible Friend.
Camalots and Aliens are good choices.
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camhead
Mar 27, 2002, 4:33 AM
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Your logic is kind of flawed. Just because you frequently find one type of cam stuck over another does not mean much. The reason so many BDs and WCs get bootied is because so many people use them in the first place!
That said, I'm going to be a voice of dissent against camalots. They are expensive and heavy. Their greater range does make them easier to place, and makes it so you get equal range with less cams. HOWEVER, for many parallel cracks, you need TONS of cams of similar size. Thus BD sets would actually put you at a handicap. I'd take WC or Metollius any day.
I hope all that made sense. I am going on severe sleep deprivation and caffeine oversaturation at the moment.
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joemor
Mar 27, 2002, 4:59 AM
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that made total sense, damn buying cams is hard, every one has there 2 cents
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pattray
Apr 3, 2002, 4:46 PM
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To date I have bootied one each of #1 #2 #3 of BD and one #3 two #4 metolius tcu.
and two weeks ago on cat in the hat Red rocks i bagged a purple metolius (the big one)up on the last pitch about 20 feet up, someone bailed ?
I would reccomend the BDs down to .5 and then Aliens.for me they cover nearly all that i climb, I find myself using them rather than the metolius cams which i do carry on my rack.
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beyond_gravity
Apr 5, 2002, 3:51 AM
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who the hell bails off a cam?
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peas
Apr 5, 2002, 3:56 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
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May partner and I both had 0.75" DMM cams, and those are the only 2 cams I've ever had to leave behind. Seemed to me like they get stuck easier. Just my 2 cents though.
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pattray
Apr 5, 2002, 12:53 PM
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I guess you bail of a cam if you have nothing else to fit the crack !!!
[ This Message was edited by: pattray on 2002-04-05 05:38 ]
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roadtrip
Apr 10, 2002, 9:05 AM
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Just avoid rigid stem cams w/ cam heads close to the size of the stem(ie .5 & .75). Those do get stuck. That's probably why forged friends had an allen bolt removable axle.
For metolius and small BD's its good to tie a small piece of loose accessory cord from the trigger to the end of the handle. That way if you can't reach the trigger, you can hook the cord w/ your nut tool, and pull the trigger.
And finally, when you do overcam, place the end of your nut tool like a flathead screwdriver behind each individual cam(against the rock) and twist back and forth. Works like a charm.
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what cams have u bootied????
