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gblauer
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Feb 3, 2004, 4:02 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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Any training suggestions would be highly appreciated...
I started climbing a little over a year ago, at age 45. I am hopelessly hooked and would really like to continue improving. Although I am beginning to wonder if I am just too old to get any better.
The stats:
Indoors: TR 5.11
Lead 5.10 (I never fall, I always climb within my capability...I think this is a problem)
Bouldering problems up to 400
Outdoors: TR The other day I did a 2 pitch 5.11b without any falls
Sport lead 5.9 (too chicken to try harder climb...see note above)
Trad lead 5.6 (I am a novice)
Bouldering I don't bother.
So...I want to be able to confidently lead 5.10+ indoors and out. I want to boulder indoors at the 400-500 level and I want to be able to TR 5.12.
Any thoughts on a training program for me?
Thanks!
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geezergecko
Feb 3, 2004, 4:12 PM
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There is a book called "How to Climb 5.12" by Eric Horst. It could give you some direction re. training. The obvious way to get better is to climb more as has been posted many times elsewhere. The problem I have with that is if you push it too far you then end up with an injury and you are back at square -1. Like a game of snakes and ladders (how appropriate). I started climbing at age 49 a few years ago and I am still stuck in the single digits, ie. 5.9 is really hard for me. So what I do is ignore all this double digit stuff and have fun on what I am able to climb.
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danabart
Feb 3, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Continue to build a good solid foundation of strength, endurance and technique. I did my hardest on-sights - 5.12 - at age 48, and I expect to improve.
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crankenstein
Feb 3, 2004, 4:19 PM
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You're never too old to improve, but you may need to take baby steps to prevent injury. That said, there is no substitute for climbing if you want to get better. Bouldering should help. Being willing to take falls should help. Cross training (especially antagonistic muscles) should help. But in the long run. there is no substitute for climbing. The best way to improve, is to hit the road and climb as many routes on as many types of rock as you can. It also helps to be climbing with people that climb harder than you so that you have plenty of opportunity to push your limits. Good luck!
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fitzontherocks
Feb 3, 2004, 4:48 PM
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Nice to see some other 40-somethings on this site. I make 4.5 in April. I, too, want to improve, but I've realized after four years of climbing that I have my limits (currently in the 5.11s). And I've come to be happy with that. I still strive for the hard ones, but I strive even harder to just have fun.
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edge
Feb 3, 2004, 5:01 PM
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It sounds to me like you are already strong enough physically to reach those goals.
I think the biggest advances come more from the mental side of the game at this point. There's no way that I am stronger than I was 20 years ago, I just climb smarter, and therefore, harder. That comes from experience, and being conscious of the mental game every time you climb. If you think about it, it will happen eventually.
Good luck!
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hema
Feb 3, 2004, 5:02 PM
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You might want to practice falling on lead at the gym, to get comfortable being on the sharp end and near your limit.
When you're comfortable on falling in the gym do the same at a sport-route.
Finally if still in doubt with trad gear, pick and easy but vertical mixed protected route (ie. protection is both bolts and trad-gear). Clip the bolt and put in gear above the (bomb-proof) bolt and fall on that. If the piece happens to fail the bolt will stop the fall.
I good thing is also to try to climb with people slightly better than you, and have them push you over your limit.
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cologman
Feb 3, 2004, 5:37 PM
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I am 52 I've been climbing a long time and climb consistently in the .10's. I occassionally get into the .11's. I have a goal of leading trad .11 and the occasional .12. I think I'll get there if I just keep pushing. As most have said, "just keep climbing". The problem I have is perhaps laziness. At this point in life I have to really want it to put out the kind of physical effort it generally takes to climb in the upper .11's and.12's. There in seems to be my stumbling block. But the bottom line with that too, I believe, is just to climb more. I do work and do Yoga to help stay in shape. Hope this helps. by the way where do hale from. I'm always looking for partners nearer my age than I generally get to climb with.
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gblauer
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Feb 3, 2004, 6:22 PM
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In reply to: by the way where do hale from. I'm always looking for partners nearer my age than I generally get to climb with.
I live outside of Philadelphia. You?
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drkodos
Feb 3, 2004, 6:32 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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Next time at the Gunks, put yourself on: Ant's Line . Period.
You will get more out of that one experience than all the other advice offered thus far (no offense intended, but feel free to allow overly sensitive feelings to be hurt if one chooses).
You need to push yourself onto a hard climb that will alllow you to fall safely. Go for the Gerdie Block, Son of Easy O, etc
Stop dicking around with soft climbs. Step up to something steep that protects well. Even if you let a partner gear it up, and then you "redpoint" it, you will get more out of this then sending Middle Earth or something else of that ilk.
The Gunks is one of the greatest areas to push grades (to a point!). A lot of steep routes that protect very well.
Don't waste time with books and the such at this point.
Mileage is the key. Mileage on good routes.
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