|
laplaya
Mar 22, 2002, 2:34 PM
Post #1 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2001
Posts: 124
|
Hey...Does anyone know any good weight exercises for climbing that build arm strengh? I need more arm strengh to get better at climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
wigglestick
Mar 22, 2002, 2:58 PM
Post #2 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
|
So you think you need bigger arms to climb better? Bigger guns for the vertical battle? Larger pipes to lift you to 5.14 and beyond? Some giant pythons attached to your torso so you can crank one-arm pull-ups all day?
If this in fact were true then Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Swarzenegger, and all those guys who spend way to much time in the gym would be the worlds greatest climbers. Have you ever seen Katie Brown? Dave Graham? Dean Potter? Tommy Caldwell? Lynn Hill? Do you see huge biceps on any of these people? The answer is no. All of them would be considered pretty scrawny by body builder standards.
The best (strongest) strongest climbers use every other muscle in their bodies to avoid using their arms as much as possible. Being a good climber is about pull-up avoidance. The fewer pull-ups you have to do the better you will climb. Work on technique and balance and strength will come.
But if you want a workout that will make you look good at the beach you can check out this Workout From Hell by John Long.
|
|
|
|
|
qacwac
Mar 22, 2002, 3:42 PM
Post #3 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 292
|
Yeah, if you're new then technique is what you need to work on, not arms. In addition, unless you already have super strong contact strength, that is finger strength, then gaining this is much more advantageous then arm strength. In training I believe the order of importance is:
1. Technique
2. Contact strength
if you get these then while climbing you'll work on contact strength and enough upper body strength to do most moves. While working contact strenth you'll get upper body strength. If you've got good technique and strong contact strength and the only thing keeping you from climbing 5.13 & 14's is upper body strength then you should start seriously working out your arms. I don't think I've ever met someone in this situation however.
|
|
|
|
|
miagi
Mar 22, 2002, 7:49 PM
Post #4 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 1087
|
Notice that he said "strength" not buff. Even if people dont look like they have buff arms doesnt mean they arnt strong. Take gymnists for example...Those girls are stronger than my by far but they arnt buff.
Now to answer the question. To me there are 4 muscles you need to work if you want "arm strength. First your upper and lower forearm need work. Even if your hanging with arms straight, your using these muscles. Get a free 20lb weight hold it palm up and lay your wrist over your knee. Drop the wrist and bring up. That should work the lower forearm. Turn your hand palm down and do the same thing and that works the upper forearm. Now for biceps and triceps. Triceps you can do by holding a free weight in the back of your head with two hands and lifting up and down. That, or backwards pushups. For your biceps just do curls or pushups.
|
|
|
|
|
wigglestick
Mar 22, 2002, 7:57 PM
Post #5 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
|
Yes, miagi those women gymnasts are stronger than you yet not "buff". But I doubt they can climb worth a s--- if they have never done it before. You are only as good as your biggest weakness and and 99.99% of the time that critical weakness is lack of good technique. The rest need to develop contact strength. Your arm muscles will get stronger by themselves if they are truely what is holding you back. Most beginner & intermediate climbers need to get better, not stronger.
|
|
|
|
|
mitchal
Mar 22, 2002, 9:52 PM
Post #6 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2002
Posts: 672
|
Hi all,
How to climb 5.12 by Eric Horst
There is a training regimine in there taht will make you strong,like sampson!
Climb Happy
Mitch
|
|
|
|
|
goopermc
Mar 23, 2002, 9:04 PM
Post #7 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 13, 2002
Posts: 28
|
miagi, push-up work your pectorals. Close grips or diamond pushups work your triceps. Your triceps are used for pushing, where your biceps are used for pulling.
Curls are the best way to work your biceps. You can also pull-up with your hands facing toward you. I believe they are called curl ups or something close to that.
Working your arms may not help your climbing, but it sure helps with the ladies
|
|
|
|
|
mountainrat
Mar 24, 2002, 12:13 AM
Post #8 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 22, 2001
Posts: 416
|
What is "contact" strength?
|
|
|
|
|
qacwac
Mar 24, 2002, 3:05 AM
Post #9 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 292
|
Contact strength is just a fancy way of saying finger strength, how well you can hold onto the rock.
If strength really is holding somebody back I would recommend pull-ups and lock-offs from some rock rings or a hangboard. That way the strength gains actually transfer well into climbing.
I also agree that you need to train the entire body but I say that for general health. If strength is holding someone back from climbing their best then it's probably not a "total" body failure but a specific failure of their arms.
[ This Message was edited by: qacwac on 2002-03-23 19:08 ]
|
|
|
|
|
bulldog
Mar 24, 2002, 4:02 AM
Post #10 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 7, 2001
Posts: 103
|
12 ounce curls.
Lots of 'em.
When you want to go up weight, try the 16 oz curl (this costs more though).
You know you're buff when you get to the 40 ounce curl.
Your arms will be huge, but so will your gut.
Bulldog - master trainer and nutritionist
|
|
|
|
|
treyr
Mar 24, 2002, 2:37 PM
Post #11 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2001
Posts: 549
|
The best way is to climb climb climb!!! Also do push ups and pull ups and after constantly doing those things you should have some guns!!!!!!
Trob
|
|
|
|
|
laplaya
Mar 28, 2002, 6:39 AM
Post #12 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2001
Posts: 124
|
Thanks folks. I have read the stuff on www.trainingforclimbing.com, about "contact strength," But I'm not talking about pinching to stay on the rock or climbing 5.13 yet, I need to be able to get up overhangs with nice jug holds. Not aspiring to be Stalone but I do need a little more bicep to help my climbing (not to mention my surfing... geting out to the waves is kicking my a$$) thanks for the tips, DK
|
|
|
|
|
lostangel
Mar 28, 2002, 8:49 PM
Post #13 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 444
|
You want better strengh when you climb??? Then your gonna like this site
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/
There is also a good article on RC.com too! you should look around! heres one for ya
http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?ID=29
[ This Message was edited by: lostangel on 2002-03-28 13:05 ]
|
|
|
|
|
saxonz
Apr 4, 2002, 12:31 AM
Post #14 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 32
|
Vinyasi yoga, you dont need big arms you need strong arms and strong flexible shoulders
|
|
|
|
|
crazywacky
Apr 4, 2002, 1:17 AM
Post #15 of 15
(3970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 31, 2002
Posts: 409
|
It took me a while to find it...But here it is.
"The Workout From Hell"
http://www.dtek.chalmers.se/Climbing/Training/index.html
I followed this "Back in the Day" when I had no life but The Corps and climbing. plus, having that free gym to go to didn't hurt..
|
|
|
|
|
|
