|
|
|
|
juanjo
Feb 4, 2004, 8:04 AM
Post #1 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2002
Posts: 213
|
This is what Sharma said when a journalist ask him about his climbing secret.....
"Climb when you want. Climb what you want. Climbing is all mental anyway.....Climb when you want. Climb what you want. Climbing is all mental anyway......"
A Lot of people would like to know how you got so good. How do you train?
I just climb a lot. I boulder, and climb routes, and campus. Sometimes I set hard routes in the gym. I just set a route in here in the gym that's like 5.14. Then I'll do some of the routes eliminating holds and stuff. They get pretty hard. Then I boulder, and sometimes I campus. I come into the gym about 4 or 5 times a week.
Describe a typical day of training?
Usually I'm not really motivated. I usually come into the gym and socialize for two hours. I'll start fooling around on the bouldering area. Then I'll go home. You know, climbing's all mental, anyway
"Climb when you want. Climb what you want. Climbing is all mental anyway.....Climb when you want. Climb what you want. Climbing is all mental anyway......" "Chris Sharma"
NowI found out why I can´t climb like him.... Cause I don´t socialize too long at the gym :roll:
What do you think about this!!!
|
|
|
|
|
dynoguy
Feb 4, 2004, 8:23 AM
Post #2 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 730
|
I think he's just trying to remain modest, and I respect that.
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Feb 4, 2004, 8:29 AM
Post #3 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
I tried some of Sharma's secret stuff. It was good. A little harsh, but it was my fault for not respecting the density. It was like that time in Amsterdam when I tried absinthe, but I digress. What was the question?
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
Feb 4, 2004, 9:03 AM
Post #4 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
roughster moved this thread from General to Technique & Training.
|
|
|
|
|
tappedoutagain
Feb 4, 2004, 9:32 AM
Post #5 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 24
|
What's his secret?
He's a freak. Don't we wish we all were.
|
|
|
|
|
dc
Feb 4, 2004, 11:57 AM
Post #6 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 355
|
In reply to: In reply to: Climb when you want. Climb what you want. Climbing is all mental anyway.....Climb when you want. Climb what you want. Climbing is all mental anyway......
well his secret obviously is his literary and grammatical skill displayed through his syntactic structure - i.e. varied sentence pattern - i.e. the use of repetition...
...obviously
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Feb 4, 2004, 2:04 PM
Post #7 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Climb when you want. Climb what you want. Climbing is all mental anyway.....Climb when you want. Climb what you want. Climbing is all mental anyway...... his secret obviously is his literary and grammatical skill displayed through his syntactic structure - i.e. varied sentence pattern - i.e. the use of repetition... ...obviously
Maybe you have actually touched on the secret. There's a certain rhythm to climbing into which some climbers never tap. I see a similar rhythm in his speech. Simple, repetitive, like a heartbeat.
Or, yeah, maybe it's genetics. Regardless, I also admire his sprayless approach to badassedness.
|
|
|
|
|
lagart
Feb 4, 2004, 2:13 PM
Post #8 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 41
|
I think what he implies here when he says “climb what you want when you want”, is that you always have to remain motivated about climbing (though he says he is usually not motivated in the gym). Lots of people get bored with a scheduled training, and others just don’t want to train at all, but it does not necessarily mean that if you don’t train you won’t get better in climbing. “Just climb when you want when you want”. Good philosophy. 8)
I’m the scheduled-training kind of climber anyway…
:lol:
|
|
|
|
|
gbschmitt
Feb 4, 2004, 2:26 PM
Post #9 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 31, 2002
Posts: 80
|
Sweet. Now I quit my job and do what Sharma says. I will climb 5.15 by this summer. Anybody out there want to sponsor me?
G-Man
|
|
|
|
|
dwise
Feb 4, 2004, 2:28 PM
Post #10 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2004
Posts: 190
|
LIES!! All of it. His secret is a goverment experiment conspiracy involving rock-colored velcro patches! I have proof given to me by the second shooter on the grassy knoll when I was abducted by aliens while snooping around area 51....
I certainly don't climb at that level, but I agree. Take 1 part climb what and when you want and mix it with 1 part genetics and 1 part mental focus and voila!
|
|
|
|
|
sticky_fingers
Feb 4, 2004, 2:53 PM
Post #11 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 420
|
"climb when you want...."
"climb when you want...."
It's hard not-wanting-to-climb when you can climb everything. :)
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
Feb 4, 2004, 3:05 PM
Post #12 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
i call BullSh*t. care to cite the name of the 'journalist' how about where it appeared? that was either many years ago, or it's fabricated.
Chris doesn't spend a whole bunch of time in any gym... he lives in bishop for god's sake.
|
|
|
|
|
sticky_fingers
Feb 4, 2004, 4:04 PM
Post #13 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 420
|
I remember hearing that quote/interview years ago (+2?), but juanjo should be able to provide more info. I also say it's old cuz when was the last time, apart from Realization, that Chris was putting up 5.14's, especially in a gym :?
|
|
|
|
|
craggy
Feb 4, 2004, 4:12 PM
Post #14 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 112
|
yup - if this is from the mouth of Sharma he's definitely on to something. Climbig is all mental, with a touch of strength...
o ya and he is a mutant.
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Feb 4, 2004, 4:18 PM
Post #15 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
I agree with bustloose, why are we even commenting on this when there's no reference.
TROLL>poop
|
|
|
|
|
atpeaceinbozeman
Feb 4, 2004, 4:37 PM
Post #16 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2002
Posts: 478
|
Troll or not, why use the advice of a natuarlly gifted superstar?
Why not just climb with people who stoke you out? Or maybe find personal motivation? or identify where you, personally, are having difficulty?
...or just follow blindly...
|
|
|
|
|
triptothesun
Feb 4, 2004, 4:45 PM
Post #17 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2003
Posts: 185
|
Just climb and enjoy it!! :)
|
|
|
|
|
juanjo
Feb 4, 2004, 7:27 PM
Post #18 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2002
Posts: 213
|
Here is the link to this interview....
http://www.cc.nctu.edu.tw/~mclub/meichu/project/sharma/sharma2.html
It was made at 97 when he was only 15 and he has made his first 5.14 :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
jipstyle
Feb 4, 2004, 7:38 PM
Post #19 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 482
|
In reply to: He's a freak. Don't we wish we all were.
Yeah .. 'cause it's that easy.
:roll:
|
|
|
|
|
scubasnyder
Feb 4, 2004, 7:41 PM
Post #20 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2003
Posts: 1639
|
He is just good
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Feb 4, 2004, 7:51 PM
Post #21 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
In reply to: LIES!! All of it. His secret is a goverment experiment conspiracy involving rock-colored velcro patches! I have proof given to me by the second shooter on the grassy knoll when I was abducted by aliens while snooping around area 51.... I certainly don't climb at that level, but I agree. Take 1 part climb what and when you want and mix it with 1 part genetics and 1 part mental focus and voila!
You are not far off the mark.
It is time to reveal the truth.
I live here in Vegas, and have been to area 51 quite often. Many people know that when the Alien mothership crashed in Roswell, the beings were taken up the road to Groom Lake (Area 51) here in Nevada. These aliens were bred with normal humans in governemntal studies trying to develop different strains of humanity. One day, a young hybrid male escapes unknown and after weeks of wrangling through the desert he found the refuge of the Eastern Sierras.
Because the gravity of the alien's home planet is 1.72 X Earth, the mutant was able to almost defy Earths weak pull on his torso. Extra long legs and arms from his outer space genes coupled with micro hairs acting like suctions cups (Like a fly) on his hands afford otherwordly abilities.
Now, let me tell you some even more revealin st.....
What?
WHo's that?
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGRGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!HHHHHHHHHH!HAAAGGGGHHGHGHHHHRGRGRGRGRGRHHHHHRGGAGARAGAR
NO NO ......NOT ........
.........MY ANUS!!!!
AGAIN!!!!
HELP!!!
THERE ARE COMING!!!!
ANd so AM I.........
|
|
|
|
|
piton
Feb 4, 2004, 7:55 PM
Post #22 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
|
you mean i've been smoking pot for no reason. i could have sworn sharma derived his strength from bong hits.
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Feb 4, 2004, 8:05 PM
Post #23 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
In reply to: you mean i've been smoking pot for no reason.
I consider that an invitation to climb...
Hey piton, when I get to the Gunks this year can I get you to partner up for some Milbrook Stuff?
I'll bring my own......
......gear.
|
|
|
|
|
piton
Feb 4, 2004, 8:08 PM
Post #24 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
|
uh oh under that type of influence you can get me to do skeltorial remains :lol:
let me know when you head out it's hard finding people to trek out to millbrook with besides romano
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Feb 5, 2004, 3:54 AM
Post #25 of 37
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
He's a great guy, but sometimes even I can't take the screaming!
I'll be out three times this year. Early spring, mid spring, and early autumn.
Wanna hit some of the nasty 11's out there so I need a strong puntr like you....
I'll pm as the dates get close.....
With the proper nugs, I will even attenpt to flail on Nectar Vector
Back to Sharma: He's cool!
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
