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razor
Feb 5, 2004, 2:22 PM
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Hey everyone that Trad climbs i was just wonder how many people out there put gear on a gear slings over there shoulder and
how many people clip it all or most of it on your harness.... or if you use both and or each one for different situations while climbing lead on trad.... :?:
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coylec
Feb 5, 2004, 2:39 PM
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I currently have it all on my harness. I'm about to get a gear sling, becuase I'm full at the waist, and its getting more difficult to get stuff out.
Or, I'll get a new harness with more gear loops. BD's momentum harness is really a sport harness, I think.
coylec
-- and it will be moved to Trad or Gearheads .... um... probably Trad. Survey sez ...
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scubasnyder
Feb 5, 2004, 2:49 PM
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I usually put all of my stuff on my harness because the gear slings seem to get in the way when i climb, always hanging in the way and annoying me. Thats just my preference though
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rmiller
Feb 5, 2004, 2:55 PM
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I rack on my harness unless doing a squeeze chimney.
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fitzontherocks
Feb 5, 2004, 2:57 PM
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Sling. I've only been trad climbing about a year- year and a half, so I still tend to bring way more gear with me than I need, so I take the full sling. I clip draws to the harness so there's not a lot of extra room there.
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lollipopchic
Feb 5, 2004, 2:58 PM
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I normally put stuff on my harness. I have a gear sling, but I've found I haven't used it much, only on longer climbs or chimney type climbs.
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lstockett
Feb 5, 2004, 3:08 PM
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Nice padded gear sling with multiple loops. I think it's made by Metolius. It makes it easier and faster to swing leads with your partner. Just hand him/her the sling.
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shakylegs
Feb 5, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Like most here, on the harness. Although, and this may be due to ageing bones, I’ll sling the gear on my shoulders for walk-offs, since my hips will kill me after a while.
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oklahoma_climber
Feb 5, 2004, 3:58 PM
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In reply to: Or, I'll get a new harness with more gear loops. BD's momentum harness is really a sport harness, I think.
it is.
I'm equal both ways... If i can see a lot of right or left hand placement, I'll sling it to the free hand side I need; overhangs are nice for slings because the rack just hangs down below and doesnt pull as much on my center of gravity (waist) becuase the weight is spread out over my chest/shoulder; face climbs or trad/sport mix, I'm usually on the harness because there's less gear banging around everywhere and against the rock in front of me.... just depends on the situation.
lstockett did raise a valid point though... a sling is much easier to pass of on a lead swing... just don't drop it!
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dirtineye
Feb 5, 2004, 3:59 PM
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Sling, because you can get stuck in places with the gear on your harness, and to make some moves it is nice to have the option to move the gear from one side of your body to the other. Not just in chimnies or offwidths either.
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smithclimber
Feb 5, 2004, 4:11 PM
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I rack it all on my harness too. Not only that, but I manage to pretty much fit all of the gear AND my tripled over runners on just the two front gear loops. Normally, the only things I put on the rear gear loops are my nut tool, ATC, cordolette, and a few lockers. If I need huge cams or multiple large cams (3"+) then I'll put some on the rear gear loops.... other than that it ALL goes on the front two gear loops. This works because I devised/use a unique way of racking gear. My method ends up saving a lot of space on your gear loops (whether you use all 4 or only the front 2, as I do) in addition to being lighter weight (due to needing fewer carabiners) and requiring fewer number of hand movements (faster) when placing gear. I also rack the gear the same way each time. This also makes it faster since I know where a specific piece is.... no digging around to find that green Alien or whatever.
I grew tired of carry gear on a sling a long time ago.... climb a slab...all the gear slides around to the front obscuring your view of your feet.
Climb a steep route..... all the gear slides behind you where you can't see it. Climb a vertical route and your knee has to "part" the gear each time you want to step up.
As you can tell.... this got old real quick. I don't have any of these problems with it racked on my harness.
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j_ung
Feb 5, 2004, 4:31 PM
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Now don't anybody take this to mean that I think anyone's personal preference is wrong. When it comes down to it, what you're used to is probably the best way to rack, with few exceptions.
However, slinged gear has a couple of obvious cons to counter its obvious pros:
1. Ast the angle of the rock changes, so does your center of gravity. If you're used to that, then it's probably OK. But if not, your technique is hosed. This won't do on hard steep lines.
2. On overhanging terrain, slinged gear places your center of gravity generally higher, hence more weight on your arms. Both power and endurance suffer.
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dynoguy
Feb 5, 2004, 4:39 PM
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I put all my pro on the sling and all my runners and draws on my harness.
Its great for switching leads.
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stick233
Feb 5, 2004, 4:40 PM
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i started out slinging it, but as i found my own style (not my teachers) i started using the harness. i don't climb real hard trad and i've been the ropegun lately, so when you end up leading each pitch, it's more comfortable with the gear on the harness. but when i'm doing multipitch and swinging leads, i don't think having the gear on the harness is as practical. that's when i use a sling...
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madmax
Feb 5, 2004, 4:51 PM
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On big multi-pitch climbs I rack most of my gear on a sling and keep a smattering of gear on my harness. I always rack draws and runners on my harness. The sling makes it much easier to swing lead on the big climbs. occassionally the sling shifts around and gets in a funky position, but its not usually so bad as to inhibit my climbing. On climbs with a lot of chimneys, a sling is imperative, especially if you don't know which way you're gonna be facing when chimneying. Its much easier to shift the sling around to the other side, then to re-rack all that gear that is on the wrong side in some heinous chimney of off-width.
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aklimerguy
Feb 5, 2004, 5:07 PM
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I used to have a gear sling, but found that it often got in the way. So I clip 3 or 4 cams to one biner, clip 3 or 4 quickdraws together so that only one is clipped on my harness. I've been doing that for the last couple of years. Works good!
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madmax
Feb 5, 2004, 5:14 PM
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I used to clip multiple pieces to one biner, but then I started climbing in the Creek a lot and I quickly changed that practice. Ain't nothing like being in the middle of some relentless tight hands splitter and having to clip a draw to a piece to really pump you out. I guess the decision to rack gear on one biner or on the harness or on a sling is a case by case situation.
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sspssp
Feb 5, 2004, 5:17 PM
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The gear goes on a double gear sling.
Pros: a doubled gear sling doesn't flop around. Lots of space to spread things out and stay organized. A double gear slings rides on your shoulders (instead of cutting into the neck like a single). My double gear sling triples as a chest harness and hydration pack.
Cons: Can't flip the gear to one side for liebacks/corners/offwidths (but can still rerack it to one side). Can't pass the sling to your partner (but can't drop it either). Hard to adjust clothing layers under the gear sling for climbing (my belay jacket I can wear over the gear sling).
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hema
Feb 5, 2004, 5:19 PM
Post #19 of 54
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I use both methods, if taking the whole rack cams go to the sling (which might be clipped by a lone bine to haul loop to avoid dangling around), and everything else goes on gearloops on the harness.
If doing a short climb everything goes on harness (chimneys are the exception, as then I would put almost everything on a bandollier).
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coldclimb
Feb 5, 2004, 5:32 PM
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I keep mine on my harness. Gear on the sides, and draws around back.
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coldclimb
Feb 5, 2004, 5:33 PM
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coldclimb moved this thread from General to Trad Climbing.
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ricardol
Feb 5, 2004, 5:36 PM
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rack on my harness (i dont do squeeze chimneys) ..
my harness has 7 gear loops .. more than enough for a trad rack ..
.. anyone want to buy a metolious gear sling? -- barely used.
-- ricardo
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lordjim
Feb 5, 2004, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: .. anyone want to buy a metolious gear sling? -- barely used. -- ricardo
Which style, how much, Shipping and payment type?
I think thats everything :)
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mandrake
Feb 5, 2004, 6:04 PM
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I carry cams on the gear sling. Mine is relatively short so it keeps 'em in tight. Then on the front gear loops go nuts and slings.
Personally, I hate reaching around to the back gear loops when I'm on lead, so the cordelette, nut tool, tricams (which I mostly use for belays, where they're great for saving cams), and anything else (approach shoes, water bottle) go on the back loops. Works for me, anyway.
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ricardol
Feb 5, 2004, 6:06 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: .. anyone want to buy a metolious gear sling? -- barely used. -- ricardo Which style, how much, Shipping and payment type? I think thats everything :)
its the multiple loop metolious (including the extra rear loop) .. you can have it for 50% of retail .. and you pay whatever shipping charges .. (i'll have to go to rei.com to get the pricing) ..
.. payment can be made by check -- i'll send you the address if you are relaly interested ..
-- ricardo
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