Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Best Cams To Double Up On
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


whatsupdoc


Feb 5, 2004, 6:16 PM
Post #1 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 19, 2002
Posts: 312

Best Cams To Double Up On
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ok, Ok, I know it is very location dependent, and I know if you climb in the desert you need buttloads of cams, but for you climbers who frequent different areas and different rock:

What are the best sizes of cams to double up on, regardless of where you climb?


dwise


Feb 5, 2004, 6:27 PM
Post #2 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 190

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

.5, .75, 1 and 2 BD Camalots (or equivalent sizes of other brands) have received the most abuse during my travels.


maculated


Feb 5, 2004, 6:32 PM
Post #3 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 22, 2001
Posts: 6179

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have doubles of .5 and 1, but lord knows I would do anything for another .75 and 2. Heck. Doubles in them all, yup.


cragmasterp


Feb 5, 2004, 6:34 PM
Post #4 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 278

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dwise is exactly right - especially the red and gold camalot.
The 2.5 wild country friend covers the very small gap between the
red and gold camalot nicely.
Here in the east a double set of small TCU's or aliens are nice - it is also good to carry some of each brand in the smaller sizes due to the suttle differences between them.


cjstudent


Feb 5, 2004, 7:07 PM
Post #5 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 21, 2003
Posts: 369

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What the others said. I have doubles in the .75, 1, and 2 and frequently i use both of them on climbs. My next double will be the .5.

I climb in NC


iamthewallress


Feb 5, 2004, 7:15 PM
Post #6 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2003
Posts: 2463

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I feel the opposite. At least where I usually climb #1 and #2 camalots mean bomber hand jams, so I don't need the gear as much. If I'm only bringing doubles in a couple of sizes for a long route when I have no reason to expect any particular sizes, I'll bring double yellow, red, and orange aliens (or dbl yellow alien and purple and green camalots.


scubasnyder


Feb 5, 2004, 7:17 PM
Post #7 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 3, 2003
Posts: 1639

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i would say .75, i use that all the time, my most useful peice on my rack


thegreytradster


Feb 5, 2004, 7:39 PM
Post #8 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

.5(sometimes triples) and .75 skip the #1 then #2 For some reason I rarely use the #1 Maybe because that's perfect hands.


dwise


Feb 5, 2004, 7:52 PM
Post #9 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 190

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would agree with Wallress' and Greytradster's point abour the hand-sized cams for most areas, but I've gradually tripled up on the 1s and 2s, specifically for trips out to Indian Creek. Seems like you can just never have enough of them for those awesome splitters. :D Mmmmmmm....Indian Creek.....drool....


phugganut


Feb 5, 2004, 9:23 PM
Post #10 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 16, 2003
Posts: 648

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hmmmmm. Was the question which cam you would double up on or which camalot? :lol:

OK seriously, I would double up on the #2 Tech Friend. I fuggin love that piece!


climbingaz


Feb 5, 2004, 9:29 PM
Post #11 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 29, 2003
Posts: 123

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'd agree with most people thus far...BD .5, .75, 1, and 2 or equivalent.


vegastradguy


Feb 6, 2004, 10:38 AM
Post #12 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I usually double up on Green and Yellow Aliens, seems like i'm always using them. I'd kill for a second set of Purple and Green Camalot jr's. A second #1 - #3 would be nice, but not necessary, because of the hand jam factor.


lstockett


Feb 6, 2004, 11:58 AM
Post #13 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 7, 2003
Posts: 208

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's worth remembering that doubling up on the smaller cams doesn't cost as much in terms of weight as doubling up on the bigger ones. Of course, either will lighten your wallet.

I always carry doubles in the green and yellow aliens, and the #0.5 camalot. I have doubles in the #2 and #3 Camalots as well, but I don't carry both unless I'm pretty sure I'm going to need them. They start to get heavy at that size.

When the REI dividend pays out I might double my .75 and/or my #1 camalot.


sfclimber


Feb 6, 2004, 4:07 PM
Post #14 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 13, 2003
Posts: 51

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Count me in agreement with the recurring reply of double up on .5 (purple), .75 (green), 1 (red), 2 (gold) BD Camalots. I climbed last weekend using a buddy's rack and have development a new fondness for yellow aliens (equivalent to .4 (grey or blue?) camalot). I'll be picking up two of those very soon!


bustinmins


Feb 8, 2004, 5:15 AM
Post #15 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 507

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Climbing in the Denver area: Eldorado Canyon mostly - I have doubled the BD Camalot 1(red) and 2(yellow).


tedc


Feb 9, 2004, 10:02 AM
Post #16 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 756

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In case anyone really wants to "double up".

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...iewtopic.php?t=48981


pipsqueekspire


Feb 10, 2004, 11:52 PM
Post #17 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2003
Posts: 222

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a set of aliens and a set of hybrids. Almost anywhere you can place a yellow I can place a yellow/green or a red/yellow hybrid. Great to have the versatility. This doesnt work in indian creek though!!

The purple alien is almost a #1BD and the white is almost a #2BD so those are doubled and then I also have a normal yellow red and orange alien to cover fingers to off fingers with the 0.5 and 0.75 to double those up too... I guess what I am saying is if you buy one full set of BD's and one full set of aliens you now have great doubles in the hand sizes and smaller with triples in the fingers and off fingers. I think of my 3.5 as a double for my #3 as well... usually thats a safe bet.


Partner coldclimb


Feb 11, 2004, 1:07 AM
Post #18 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I haven't climbed much trad at all yet, but I've already run into a few climbs that could have sucked in a few #1 camalots. That would be my first choice. :)


granitegod


Feb 11, 2004, 3:29 AM
Post #19 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 20, 2003
Posts: 340

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TRI CAMS!!.....always have 2 pinkies and 2 reddies (0.5 and 1.0) on your rack!!! Bonus is that you get 4 for the price of one camalot.


flagstaff_climber


Feb 11, 2004, 5:49 AM
Post #20 of 20 (6762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 21, 2002
Posts: 310

Re: Best Cams To Double Up On [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

All of them :)

It really depends on your area, around here I would say .75, 1 and 2 with Aliens doubled for the small stuff.

Rick


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook