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whatsupdoc
Feb 6, 2004, 2:16 AM
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Ok, Ok, I know it is very location dependent, and I know if you climb in the desert you need buttloads of cams, but for you climbers who frequent different areas and different rock:
What are the best sizes of cams to double up on, regardless of where you climb?
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dwise
Feb 6, 2004, 2:27 AM
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.5, .75, 1 and 2 BD Camalots (or equivalent sizes of other brands) have received the most abuse during my travels.
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maculated
Feb 6, 2004, 2:32 AM
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I have doubles of .5 and 1, but lord knows I would do anything for another .75 and 2. Heck. Doubles in them all, yup.
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cragmasterp
Feb 6, 2004, 2:34 AM
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Dwise is exactly right - especially the red and gold camalot.
The 2.5 wild country friend covers the very small gap between the
red and gold camalot nicely.
Here in the east a double set of small TCU's or aliens are nice - it is also good to carry some of each brand in the smaller sizes due to the suttle differences between them.
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cjstudent
Feb 6, 2004, 3:07 AM
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What the others said. I have doubles in the .75, 1, and 2 and frequently i use both of them on climbs. My next double will be the .5.
I climb in NC
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iamthewallress
Feb 6, 2004, 3:15 AM
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I feel the opposite. At least where I usually climb #1 and #2 camalots mean bomber hand jams, so I don't need the gear as much. If I'm only bringing doubles in a couple of sizes for a long route when I have no reason to expect any particular sizes, I'll bring double yellow, red, and orange aliens (or dbl yellow alien and purple and green camalots.
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scubasnyder
Feb 6, 2004, 3:17 AM
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i would say .75, i use that all the time, my most useful peice on my rack
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thegreytradster
Feb 6, 2004, 3:39 AM
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.5(sometimes triples) and .75 skip the #1 then #2 For some reason I rarely use the #1 Maybe because that's perfect hands.
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dwise
Feb 6, 2004, 3:52 AM
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I would agree with Wallress' and Greytradster's point abour the hand-sized cams for most areas, but I've gradually tripled up on the 1s and 2s, specifically for trips out to Indian Creek. Seems like you can just never have enough of them for those awesome splitters. :D Mmmmmmm....Indian Creek.....drool....
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phugganut
Feb 6, 2004, 5:23 AM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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Hmmmmm. Was the question which cam you would double up on or which camalot? :lol:
OK seriously, I would double up on the #2 Tech Friend. I fuggin love that piece!
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climbingaz
Feb 6, 2004, 5:29 AM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2003
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I'd agree with most people thus far...BD .5, .75, 1, and 2 or equivalent.
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vegastradguy
Feb 6, 2004, 6:38 PM
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I usually double up on Green and Yellow Aliens, seems like i'm always using them. I'd kill for a second set of Purple and Green Camalot jr's. A second #1 - #3 would be nice, but not necessary, because of the hand jam factor.
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lstockett
Feb 6, 2004, 7:58 PM
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It's worth remembering that doubling up on the smaller cams doesn't cost as much in terms of weight as doubling up on the bigger ones. Of course, either will lighten your wallet.
I always carry doubles in the green and yellow aliens, and the #0.5 camalot. I have doubles in the #2 and #3 Camalots as well, but I don't carry both unless I'm pretty sure I'm going to need them. They start to get heavy at that size.
When the REI dividend pays out I might double my .75 and/or my #1 camalot.
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sfclimber
Feb 7, 2004, 12:07 AM
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Count me in agreement with the recurring reply of double up on .5 (purple), .75 (green), 1 (red), 2 (gold) BD Camalots. I climbed last weekend using a buddy's rack and have development a new fondness for yellow aliens (equivalent to .4 (grey or blue?) camalot). I'll be picking up two of those very soon!
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bustinmins
Feb 8, 2004, 1:15 PM
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Climbing in the Denver area: Eldorado Canyon mostly - I have doubled the BD Camalot 1(red) and 2(yellow).
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pipsqueekspire
Feb 11, 2004, 7:52 AM
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I have a set of aliens and a set of hybrids. Almost anywhere you can place a yellow I can place a yellow/green or a red/yellow hybrid. Great to have the versatility. This doesnt work in indian creek though!!
The purple alien is almost a #1BD and the white is almost a #2BD so those are doubled and then I also have a normal yellow red and orange alien to cover fingers to off fingers with the 0.5 and 0.75 to double those up too... I guess what I am saying is if you buy one full set of BD's and one full set of aliens you now have great doubles in the hand sizes and smaller with triples in the fingers and off fingers. I think of my 3.5 as a double for my #3 as well... usually thats a safe bet.
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coldclimb
Feb 11, 2004, 9:07 AM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
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I haven't climbed much trad at all yet, but I've already run into a few climbs that could have sucked in a few #1 camalots. That would be my first choice. :)
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granitegod
Feb 11, 2004, 11:29 AM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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TRI CAMS!!.....always have 2 pinkies and 2 reddies (0.5 and 1.0) on your rack!!! Bonus is that you get 4 for the price of one camalot.
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flagstaff_climber
Feb 11, 2004, 1:49 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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All of them :)
It really depends on your area, around here I would say .75, 1 and 2 with Aliens doubled for the small stuff.
Rick
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