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dynoguy
Feb 5, 2004, 11:08 PM
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After climbing a pitch(top rope, trad, or sport) without any takes/falls do you guys ever think to yourselves, "Man, I could have just free-soloed that. I guess this is a lame question, but I always think about that after I do a route clean.
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katydid
Feb 5, 2004, 11:11 PM
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You could also solo a 5.2, screw up, and fall to your death.
Just something to consider.
;)
k.
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dynoguy
Feb 5, 2004, 11:20 PM
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I'm not saying I want to free-solo anything. I'm just thinking back in hind-sight that I could have.
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cadaverchris
Feb 5, 2004, 11:23 PM
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i've never thought that after a roped pitch.
but on occasion after freesoloing i have thought:
-that was awesome
-that was stupid
i'm sure this thread will see lots of opinions, but the one that matters most is yours.
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vegastradguy
Feb 5, 2004, 11:23 PM
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I sometimes think that after I have not only done the route, but done it in perfect style. No slips, no unsure moments, etc. If it clicks, then sometimes, yeah, i think...i could solo that. And sometimes, I do solo that climb....
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brianthew
Feb 5, 2004, 11:25 PM
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Rarely on rock, very, very often on ice.
Perhaps that means it's time to up my ice level, or sumthin'.
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sandbag
Feb 5, 2004, 11:28 PM
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could haves.....
"wow, he could have made it if he hadnt slipped..."
"Dude! that guy was almost topped out if he could have avoided that hornets nest..."
or the time honored classic...
"Could have should have would have......its too late now..."
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mreardon
Feb 6, 2004, 12:35 AM
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The thought does come to mind once in a while, but more often than not, I'm really glad there's a rope on me for certain climbs.
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herm
Feb 6, 2004, 12:44 AM
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There is a difference between climbing with and without a rope. You may think you "could have", but you could be wrong.
the fact is that soloing is overtly risky, and that there are certain random hazards that cannot be controled.
This is not a good enough reason for people to presume to tell strangers how to climb. I will solo when I feel like it.
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mungeclimber
Feb 6, 2004, 1:27 AM
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werd, you're seeing things post hoc
in the moment, would you have been likely to get scared at the fact that you could fall to your death? If not, then yes, maybe I could have solo'd it. Would existence rear it's ugly head?
It's similar to redpoint vs. onsight or flash ascents.
to onsight is harder because you have no foreknowledge of the route. If the route were one that required a specific kind of foreknowledge you might have hosed yourself. But if just TR'd it you know that now, but just took away the chance at an onsight solo. Instead, you could repeat the route with a solo if you have the moves wired.
*** disclaimer- if you fall by definition you didn't have the moves wired and thus accept your own fate.
cheers,
munge
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nagatana
Feb 6, 2004, 1:52 AM
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Yeah. My first climb on real rock was a generous 5.6. I glanced up and down and thought of scrambling up like a hooligan came to mind. I didn't act on that impulse 'cause I was with people I just met, and it would've been a rather bad way to start my outdoor climbing experience had that 2% mishap occured.
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muncher
Feb 6, 2004, 2:01 AM
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Sure I think of that alot after I send something, rarely serisouly though. I have done enough soloing and run out climbing to know that there is a huge difference in committing to a move where there is a chance you may come off when the consequences are no longer just a 10ft whipper. All of a sudden you are not quite sure, a little doubt may come in and it's time to back off or maybe just suck it up, think fuck it I can do that, stop being a sissy and just go.
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sammatt
Feb 6, 2004, 2:23 AM
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Sometimes, yes, on those rare low-gravity days, I think, hell, I could have soloed that.
Conversely, at the top of more than a few solos, I've thought, "Cripes, what the fuck was I doing up there without a rope on." I usually think that after I'm done shaking.
The best "moment" was on Back in Slacks, on Dinosaur Mountain, in the Flatirons. Post-break-up, after a 6-year relationship, I was on the typical "me strong dude who cares if I die" nihilistic soloing binge. I had done the route twice before, roped, ages before the solo. I had forgotten the crux was getting over the lip of the route 50 feet up. Shaking like a leaf, totally gripped, I stabbed for a pin scar, missed, re-set, and caught it, just as my ass was pulling me earthward. When I got to the top I had nothing but contempt for myself.
Then I went and soloed some other pitches.... Hmmm...
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philbox
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Feb 6, 2004, 2:25 AM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=23914
Yup that`s me, that little red dot there in the middle of that wall. I`m soloing a relatively easy climb that is quite a few grades below my ultimate ability to free.
On a much harder climb, do I wonder whether I can solo it, nope. I make a decision to either solo a climb or climb it with a rope based on how I feel at the base of a climb. The climb I did in the above picture was an onsight solo for me which is a first. I normally would have already done a climb roped up before soloing it. The thing is that this climb was a mega classic that bumblies had been climbing for eons.
When I`m soloing each and every move is solid, like a moving anchor system. Pure an unadulterated climbing, it`s you and the rock.
Do I recommend this type of climbing, No way, don`t do this, you may be killed. See all the usual disclaimers on the net that deals with this sort of thing particularly Brutus of wydes disclaimer.
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rkhali
Feb 6, 2004, 3:30 AM
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Every single time....
Some of them I end up free soloing, others not, even if I find them really easy. Depends on how I am feeling that day: Sometimes I know I just can't mess up, other times I'll be thinking that maybe I shouldn't kill myself and mess up my partner's week end.
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tappedoutagain
Feb 6, 2004, 7:34 AM
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No, I never think that. Free soloing is completely different from climbing with protection. The mentality is different. You use a lot more energy free soloing also, because you don't try to grip each hold with the minimum strength needed, which you do when climbing on protection.
It also doesn't make sense in that it's hind sight. If you go to vegas, bet $25 on a blackjack hand, and win, do you think, "hmm, I could have bet my $50,000 life savings on that hand, why didn't I?"
That's me soloing the 2nd pitch of Indecent Exposure (5.9) at Hueco Tanks.
http://www.leiwang.com/pics/temp0052.jpg
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solo
Feb 6, 2004, 9:32 AM
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Yes, sometimes when a hard route goes smoothlly, when I am "in the zone"- focused, balanced, strong- I feel like - man, I could have soloed it! But, having actually soloed a few routes, I know that I couldn't have. I know that my performance was exceptional and might not be repeated next time. I would not risk that.
On the other hand, there are routes I know I can do solo. This is not a feeling, this is a cold calculation based on my abilities and knowledge of the route.
Somhow, the "I feel I could" routes tend to be much harder than those "I know I can". :D
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coldclimb
Feb 6, 2004, 6:08 PM
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I've thought it while climbing, but I really don't have any plans to do it, unless it's on something like 5.2 where I know I'm in control enough to be nearly certain of survival.
Besides, my mom tells me not to. ;)
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ouflyboy9
Feb 6, 2004, 6:14 PM
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I usually think sweet I got a flash or an onsight
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reprieve
Feb 6, 2004, 6:23 PM
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In reply to: You could also solo a 5.2, screw up, and fall to your death. Just something to consider. ;) k.
VERY good point, and the reason why I continually vow never to free-solo anything...just doesn't seem worth it.
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gat
Feb 6, 2004, 6:55 PM
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I don't even think of free soloing when I have a rope.
My free-soloing facts:
Every time I have soloed I didn't have a rope with me;
Almost all of my soloing has been done under the influence of naturally occurring hallucinagens;
I have onsighted at least one climb that was at the absolute top of my leading ability at the time (see above post for my poor excuse), this was also the highest I ever soloed. The next day I vowed to never solo anything so committing again, and I haven't.
Have never done it higher than about 45 ft on vertical rock and about 60 on a slab;
Lastly, I have never "thought" about a solo before doing it - it is always spontaneous.
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scubasnyder
Feb 6, 2004, 7:06 PM
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how many times do you fall and say i would have been dead if i tried to solo that
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reprieve
Feb 6, 2004, 9:25 PM
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In reply to: Almost all of my soloing has been done under the influence of naturally occurring hallucinagens
!!!!!! :shock:
What kind and where can I get some?! :D
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